scottishjohn

as per title ,thinking to when I get to rebuild the big house, when planning finally give decision etc is there much difference in costings between the two systems .assuming roof is same construction sarking boards and roof membrane I,m just finishing rebuilding my old explosive shed with slates -- had to rebuild the gables in stone and make up roof frame work - more new skills learnt walls are 500m thick on a building which is only just over 3.2m long 2.8 wide externally that will be the she shed

there is no nice way to say it even presuming there are founds big enough for those columns -which there are no signs of you want to see even mortar joints and if required to get height right ,then cut blocks and keep joints even I am guessing his thought process is that using "figure of 8 "blocks filled with concrete will make good pillars-- and he don,t want to use a bought prestressed lintel because he cannot lift it up there without equipment. the webs to hold shuttering together means the lintel will not go far enough onto blocks and will be very thin at those points-- maybe if he had used threaded rod and nuts nd had lintel ends of pillar and was twice as deep --but not as it is looking at the wood shuttering -the finished beam depth will be only4-5" as shuttering is only 6" deep and overlapped onto the block -you wouldn,t even use a solid granite lintel that thin for that span -needs to be twice as deep with lots of rebar in it get professional advice--as in you pay for it and pull that down

solar panels for heating pool are probably the best option as only running cost is the circulation pump ,but I suppose that could be solar powered as well

gshp have a definite advantage when you have a climate where winter temps are -10 c or -20c more for months like Canada or very northern Europe--that when the better COP at lower ambient temps will pay back --but thats not the uk. don,t forget much higher servicing costs and changing the fluid inthe underground coils every now and then if its just the look of the ASHP unit ,then move it further away from house or plant things around?

how much insulation is going under your slab -is it sat in the ground? is it a complete insulated foundation ? your final result will depend very much on using a "frabic first approach" and that starts well before ordering TF kit and pouring slab- any drawings will help the gurus direct you the right way

thats how mine will be --no batons

Just about to do my first slate roof on the old explosives building .as soon as I get walls+ gables back up and rafters made etc never done slates before - was going to go for tin roof -- but seems a shame not to keep it as it was including a 200year old refurbed sky light skylight was made in dumfries when there were iron works al over - any suggestions for a good slate trimming cutting tool?

single batons will always cause a gather up of dust and bugs over time which is then a condensation dam it then holds damp and causes rot I would always for sarking it will always be stronger +stiffer in wind loads and make it easy to work on the roof while tiling or slating it

I understand what you say -seems like recipe for a family fallout once you decide to sell -then that should be it - not sell it then have another bite later simple agreement on percentage split to other family members is all that was needed -and if not already done --its another fallout that will happen at sometime

I had someone try to do that to me when half way through the deal I just stood my ground walked away 3 years on he has still not sold it seller is being greedy your choice to deal or not always a poker game offer a fixed sum if you develop later ? then you know where you are for calculating further development to expect to get not only a lift from original sale ,but also to have to inflation proofed -- not a deal i would consider

fxxk em -- any trespasses will be getting told very quickly to GTF ,as they say up here .when found wandering my domain no better covid protection than seperation chased 4 guys with inflatable canoes from the quarry lake on saturday

why? put on fake things when nearest neighbour is best part of a mile away I will be resisting very hard on this one

My plans which are now in for my rebuild of the big house I have removed all chimneys as there will be no fires of any kind in the house and am expecting same sort of silly nonsense from planning my first response will be that as I am bringing this house into the 21st century and not burning any fossil fuels or wood then chimneys are pointless and virtual certainty to be a place to have water ingress into the building . a vast expense to pull them down to rebuild with trays in them to stop this happening a cost which could very well be the tipping point of going for a complete new build against a tasteful refurbishment and keeping all exterior granite walls and not keeping any of the original features of the house will just a very bland modern style building we will see what they say

and these holes in the outer wall --do they have go though total wall or just to the rubble fill in middle ? surely air bricks at bottom into the cavity between walls and sealed TF kit would make more sense and top of walls left open connected to a cold roof space and vented through soffits or eves as it was when it had lathe and plaster

UV is minimum you should always do with any bore hole to kill any bacteria that gathers up in your system or storage tanks

main horror stories seem come from roofs where people have laid directly onto the house wrap + sips , instead of having house wrap then a ventilation gap(batons) and then roofing or direct renndering onto sips again instead of having a breathing gap or a gap and cladding you need a ventilation path in any wood framed or sips house my own 1979 tf house has brick outer skin ,but thecavity wall is connected to under the house and the roof is a ciold type so draft comes from under floor up between the brick and wood wall ,then up into the loft and out of soffit vents i tried blocking top of cavity walls 10 years ago and in one winter the plywood roof sarking went black on north side of house -- removed the insulation that was blocking the cavity and it all disappeared that proved to me you need a direct ventilation path as they had in old stone houses with lathe +plaster -seal it and form of condensation or moisture will cause problems over time

only possible problem I can see in an extension to a building warrant is if the stds have changed -and you might have to comply with any new regs on extending the warrant I heard of a rebuild of an old water mill -which had been started -but stopped and when they went to renew were informed that minimum insulation stds had changed -so had to comply with them ,which caused some reworking of structure to comply

rotting of any wood structure is down to how its built ,nothing else . to have mould you must have water ingress

off the wall suggestion If you can remove them the broken ones would glue together with modern stuff? as a last choice

you mean you have sealed the gap between the outer wall and the back of the lathe +plaster?

maybe you are starting from the wrong point you need to sort the insulation and draft problems first can you describe age + type of construction and size of house get the free survey from the energy trust on your house before doing anything

maybe time to think about getting rid of the lathe and plaster and build stud walls -providing rooms are not very small maybe a bigger job then you wanted but is the right way to go long term and also a chance to replace electrics etc at same time and have house with modern insulation stds if rooms are big enough you don,t even need to rip out old plaster +lathes-just build a modern house inside it inside it ? apply vapour barrier to the frames before you lift them up into place and you got full damp proofing at same time and a gap for the old walls to breath into the roof space a house that old will be built with a cold roof and lots of drafts in the loft area -so you kill all problems at same time also will be a job you can do while still living in it ,a bit at a time if you wish filling the gap with anything will stop the air flow to the roof you must have with this type of old house -you will make more damp problems

I do not think that will work as he is going for a demoliish and rebuild to be honest to me house looks too good to flatten anyway -- but everyone to their own they will want everything to comply to latest building spec which means foul and surface will need to be separate and arguing about minor things at this stage is a good recipe for long delays If I were planning I would not be allowing anything but new spec ,as that what you are wanting --a new house + that includes drainage systems good luck with your argument -hope it does not upset them too much and your plans go to the bottom of the pile because of it

very common condition and round here it is a std condition also any gates --have to be set back 6m so you can open up gate go through it and then shut gate -so you are not sat on road while doing it either entering or leaving drain across the road and a big soakaway cage buried in your garden is the answer. they even specified that on my plot where there are no roads drains and have never been for last 200 years suck it up and do what they ask -if thats only condition then its not a biggy anyway and it needs to done before end of build and habitation to be honest i have seen lots that never bother and have not been picked up on it in my area -- how lucky do you feel ?

If that is true maybe I can get someone to build my house for me and they can have it when I die --which will be in next 20-25 years i expect any offers???