scottishjohn

has anybody used one of these https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0953757BT/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B0953757BTp13NParams&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzM0xVVUtaN0dFU1VZJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTI3NTk3VFk0R0JMQVJCS0VMJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA1NDc5MTgxNzQ3OU5GTjdYNzBXJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsMiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= --thinking about an easier way to repoint inside of stone building as opposed to individual joint pointing om hundreds of sqm of walls

you must have some big holes if you saw a stoat in the loft and also lots of cold drafts

buy a powder puffer and the wasp powder -shove the nozzle in a gap 0ne or 2 good puffs and they will die in a day -where the powder lands -any bug that walks in it from ants to wasp are dead

certainly not the answer to my problems anyway .

sounds like the grinder does not have enough safety features on the trigger if you can just touch trigger and it fires up no way i could do that with my milwaukee one but yes batteries out when not in use solves it

sounds like your contract with them did not have enough detail in it at the beginning

more info onthis in english would be good --could be the way for me to line my old stone house walls -and not having to spend months repointing all the inside of the stone walls rather than building timber frame one inside of the walls

the way wood prices have been going using load bearing galvanised sections might be soon cheaper that a TF house

edf

I,m just glad I started a fixed tariff deal for 3years last month

where I am in the s/w of scotland we have had less than 50% of normal average historical rainfall this year both this year and last started my suntan in march and its not stopped yet

where would you put the meter?, as the water company will only read and charge the neighbour ,so they would need to read your meter and charge you-.at what ever rate they want put it before their meter and you are stealing water and as @Nickfromwales says flow could be a problem with a storage system after your meter and with double non return valve all can be done but not quite as simple as a "tee" but as you are in scotland we have no domestic metering YET

and when temp gets to -10c for a few days --all those small tanks could be frozen --as there is no flow and stagnant as there would be a with a stream to stop freezing good luck with that in scotland would not be my choice no good at all if you intended do any b+b, or glamping as they would fail the annual inspection by council.

I asked about this. not accepted in scotland by defra all things possible but getting any air bourne contamination +those from farm fertilisers or application of slurry to fields out of it would be a worry different if you were taking from a stream cascading down a stone mountain side maybe in very rural area where I am its all granite and great for bore holes as little cassing required and you get the water from the cracks in the rock --so no silting up as you can get if you taking it from a sand layer speak to bore hole company who drill in your arae

I would guess what the neighbours are worried about is the finish of the road after the job- so make sure what warranty the ultilites company give to final finish and convey that to neighbours

I could be totally wrong and correct me if I am but why not build with cement -but rake out deep when building before its set --then point with what ever you like to get colour and look you want ? real lime mortar takes much longer to dry and must be protected from rain etc while its drying or it will dissolve and stain bricks also courses of build per day is much less lime mortar as they use for old historic stone work etc can take days or weeks to go off in cold damp conditions or maybe you don,t really mean true lime mortar ,but cement /lime mix

that is a big bobby trap --what if she sells and next person does not like you sharing ? and no water board would ever allow that ,so they will not ever sort any problems for you ,where would the water meter be? all would be classed as a private supply so you would be paying neighbour for water --on another meter where it comes off their supply + they can charge you what they like not a good idea bore hole will cost what ever it takes to get down to good water -- if ground is soft then lots of borehole casing to pay for as well all you can do is get a quote and see =are there any other bores holes close --can you find out how deep they are>? ball park guess for bore hole would £10-£15 k maybe the fact that the sellers water comes from so far away tells you that borehole is not viable?

what I used on shed are 100year warranty ones --they are £1 each -so similar to concrete tiles in price . certainly worth a deeper investigation done one side with the reclaimed 200 year old cast iron roof light too wet to do other side today for me -which has no penetrations

If design stays as it is then the building is "L" shaped with one hip main roof will be 22m long and width of building is 8m hip section will be approx 8m long and 7m wide

as per title ,thinking to when I get to rebuild the big house, when planning finally give decision etc is there much difference in costings between the two systems .assuming roof is same construction sarking boards and roof membrane I,m just finishing rebuilding my old explosive shed with slates -- had to rebuild the gables in stone and make up roof frame work - more new skills learnt walls are 500m thick on a building which is only just over 3.2m long 2.8 wide externally that will be the she shed

there is no nice way to say it even presuming there are founds big enough for those columns -which there are no signs of you want to see even mortar joints and if required to get height right ,then cut blocks and keep joints even I am guessing his thought process is that using "figure of 8 "blocks filled with concrete will make good pillars-- and he don,t want to use a bought prestressed lintel because he cannot lift it up there without equipment. the webs to hold shuttering together means the lintel will not go far enough onto blocks and will be very thin at those points-- maybe if he had used threaded rod and nuts nd had lintel ends of pillar and was twice as deep --but not as it is looking at the wood shuttering -the finished beam depth will be only4-5" as shuttering is only 6" deep and overlapped onto the block -you wouldn,t even use a solid granite lintel that thin for that span -needs to be twice as deep with lots of rebar in it get professional advice--as in you pay for it and pull that down

solar panels for heating pool are probably the best option as only running cost is the circulation pump ,but I suppose that could be solar powered as well

gshp have a definite advantage when you have a climate where winter temps are -10 c or -20c more for months like Canada or very northern Europe--that when the better COP at lower ambient temps will pay back --but thats not the uk. don,t forget much higher servicing costs and changing the fluid inthe underground coils every now and then if its just the look of the ASHP unit ,then move it further away from house or plant things around?

how much insulation is going under your slab -is it sat in the ground? is it a complete insulated foundation ? your final result will depend very much on using a "frabic first approach" and that starts well before ordering TF kit and pouring slab- any drawings will help the gurus direct you the right way

thats how mine will be --no batons