scottishjohn

santa claus works at least one day a year

slow sand filter wiil remove colour

I would consider a 2000litre absolute minimum -average usage for modern living is about 200-400 litres per person per day - so i would want alot more back up than 2000 plus another acumulator tank and booster pump in house to get good water pressure If tank was 30ft above top of house that,s only 1 bar pressure-no good tanks are not expensive

hard rock is better for bore hole than soft easier for them to drill ,opposite to what you would think and will require less casing length (to stop hole falling in on itself)-which cost money and will probably be better water and hard rock will have cracks in it which is where the water is as a guess depending on how deep they have to go think around 15K for a bore hole with filtration required you may need a big tank as well depending on flow rate -you can ask for a quote can you find others around with bore holes and see how deep they are ? from my own area most are in the 30-50 m depth going other way you will need a large storage tank and filters -yes it will be cheaper- but what if someone upstream starts taking water or more water than they do now first step is to get the water tested ,it may be polluted from farms upstream anyway and not be usable I would value site on having to go borehole then you will be on the right side

so are you intending to take the water from the burn? or have a bore hole how much do they run in summer? did you see them then

is the floor any different construction than the rest of the house -is this a new build with total concrete slab in all rooms of are pipes fixed to under side of the flooring

I have studied the allowed and not allowed lists in the vat notice and rules of when and how the claim must be made by , nowhere does it mention any start date -eg panning consent date as long as the materials cannot be removed / it even covers how you buy them and if bought originally by a company you must show how you bought them from that company to be used in the build EG my company buys them and i have to show how I personally bought them from my own company -with bank statements for both my private account and my company which purchased them to start with

as above still awaiting planning consent for refurb and alterations etc -so question is when I put in the vat claim can I claim for goods purchased before planning consent date I wish to make all walls capped and secure from further damage and about pull the trigger on a lorry load of lintels and another pallet of cement and 3 pallets of bricks

slight hi- jack still awaiting planning consent for refurb and alterations etc -so question is when I put in the vat claim can I claim for goods purchased before planning completion date I wish to make all walls capped and secure from further damage and about pull the trigger on a lorry load of lintels and another pallet of cement and 3 pallets of bricks

don,t think sun will be a problem LOL

? please descibe boning rods

not goggling well today found one now on e bay -I bought 2 to do two directions at once

just a thought to find the original wall head heights of my building ,which is "U" shaped i was thinking maybe of water level gauges and coupled with small bore tubing thoughts and any ideas where to find such a thing or is it home made job building is 25m long ,so trying to find original corner heights all round will not be possible with laser as internal walls will get in the way and too long in my mind for string level especially a i do not know at this stage which bit is correct height good enough for building pyramids so should be good enough for me and water always finds a level still waiting on planning ,but i could at least repair wall heads and cap off with mortar to stop any further water ingress I do not have enough scaffolding to go all round --so idea was to get levels then leapfrog the scaffolding as I repair wall heads

you can use the 2kw fan heater -which is part of it ,but I never have as UFH takes care of all that ,maybe handy if you are a skin flint and turn off heating in summer I never do my UFH runs 24/7 and is zone controlled - it don,t come on unless its needed

Ihave stove unit at moment -but may use one cassette type -too so0on to say yet

no it is not obvious --go see one working then comment please

they look that fake that people who do not know have tried to put things on it to burn you do not get any flames more real than these -see an optimist -do not compare with other types -there is no real comparison

no noise from my one - you bought a different type -- see the right type before making a decision

there is no other one that gives same effect -only optimist

you can get same effect at a fraction of the cost https://www.dimplex.co.uk/optimyst I have had one for ten years and will befitting a couple in my new house just for the effect you have to see one in the flesh to see how real the flame effect is thechoice is a personal one -- but the cost to supply and fit will be very different and very green

I hear what you are saying - but seems a big expense to get alittle boost we use our optimist every night in autumn and winter to give that cosy effect of a log fire at a fraction of the cost of a log burner and all the associated chimney costs and possible roof penetration problems. everybody makes their own choices and nothing wrong with that

I did consider wood burning system for heating ,but once you work out how much wood you will need and the lack of control EG once its lit it will use all the wood and probably over heat the house I know a few people who went that way ,using it as a feature ,but over time have decided the effort or cost of buying good seasoned logs is too expensive from my point when i, m 80 I cannot see me wanting or maybe being able to cut 10ton + of logs year + a big shed to hold 20t while it matures for 2 years before use you can cut up to 5 cum of wood per 4 months - from your land after that you need a thinning license from FC sounds a lot but its not much if you using a log burner for a major heat source so will not have any wood burners - but instead will have what I have now for effect+minor summer evening heating a dimplex optimist flame effect that uses water and lamps to illuminate the mist also adds some humidity into the house as UFH does dry things up compared to a fire before anybody says its not the same go see one in real life --it is +it has a 2kw heater built in if you want to use it no comparison in price either https://www.dimplex.co.uk/optimyst see it working

10years and its zero vat

a lot of mortgage companies and surveyors will give you a bad report with foam infill ,as they cannot inspect the roof ,so assume you are hiding rotten beams etc and as it is an area where there could be condensation i would go for CLOSED CELL foam -not open cell. CLOSED CELL IS A WATER PROOF BARRIER and can be used for tanking basements on outside ,which they do in the states closed cellis what they use for buoyancy in canoes ,and lifebouys lining shipping containers when they make thnm into an office etc --no condensation that can travel through the foam -like it can with open cell it is dearer then open cell -but you can buy DIY units also insulation is similar To PIR-better than open cell quite commonly used in barn conversions to seal up old lime mortar walls before wood frame kit 40-50mm is all you need to seal it upand also get all the drafts ,then fill up to rafter depth with mineral bats or something --that will cut down costs

what are they UFH pipes laid on ? if not good thick insulation ,then most of your heat will going down so first job is as thick a layer of pir as you can get under UFH pipes , if you can jack them up to be touching new flooring ,then it will transfer the heat into the floor , even if the pipes stick up 10mm from floor joist then floor boards should compress them tight to the floor once you lay new flooring -fill round them with biscuit mix or something --that will spread the heat above the pir thick insulation between sub floor and pipes is the way to go and pack it tight including the edges so there is no air movement or drafts under there