scottishjohn

3 t or 4,5/5ton is more than enough for any foundation work and can be fitted with a rock pecker main advantage of 5tonner is the extra reach over a 3t --1.7 very little reach --meant for road repairs and gardening limit with 3ton is it won,t lift a full wet bag of sand at any thing like reaching and if you want to pull out tree roots then 7ton + is needed or a lot of knibbling away at the roots -with a 3-4ton and they probally won,t lift the root ball if over 12"-15" dia i have tb230 tacecuchi taceuch i was my choise cos its the only one that you can wipe the dozer blade with bucket --so making cleaning up and stone lifting easy-and a 5ton one was another 15k+ it handles all my mega stone work - can lift 600kgs -- but a wet tote bag of sane will be over 1ton if you have the space you can buy old big diggers quite cheaply --but your 1.5-1.7 --that can be towed with a pick up or van are very pricey in comparsion the bottom line is how much do you want to pay a 8year old 3toner will still be 16k +vat for a good one new price is about £37k+vat I bought a 3 year old for £30k inc vat

just to hold back the banking and channel the old ware supply down through it --like a chimney been there fro 200 years and ithink when they replaced the old stone channel with concrete pipes --but did not bry them --they leaked and made banking soft the ground bascially is hard as hell as its all built up from quarry waste I think being 72 -- this is a bit beyond me -stones are too big for me-hoping someoen was going to give me a quote to come and rebuild it

picces of wallnp no replies --scared evefybody

they are cheeky to assume such a thing --which again comes down tothem specifyibg that in htier twerms of employment you could argue that iif its that important a toll they should have thier own --some chance sounds like you got alot primadonnas there -next thing they will want to mix the mortar LOL

OK having talked to a flooring manufacturer and getting to the tech dept i am now happy that stick down is the way to go thwe 27c that all makers quote is a max temp for direct heat and not becasue of tile lifting as the adhesive will be fine ,but discolouration of the tiles . In the most extreme cases he told me you could end up with faded lines in tiles where the heating pipes run , also flooring to go behind bifolds,conservatories etc they do not reccomand clickfit type only stick down type so that me happy that there should be no problems proviiding the pipes are well buired in the screed and not close to surface I got the impression it was more a problem with retro fit electric heating panels I did a wee test on my floor in this house --raised room temp to 24c and with input of 39c --floor never exceeded 24.5c whikle it was getting up to temp -- so no problem

Iread and understand exactly what you are saying Ihave gone another way with one building contractor in charge and supplying all required trades and over seeing the whole job .inc electrics and heating system etc .only thing I have to do when they have finished is floor coverings I am so far more than happy with what he has and is doing . having been inbiz for over 40 years I know that if things go wrong and people get legal ,then only what is written down is what the court will use to makes decisions on . maybe I,m just lucky with my choice of contractor -- time will tell-he was not the most expensive and started with in a month --so all happy here

a temp reading when it is working hard to raise floor temp would tell us something

my thoughts are similar in that the room stat would turnoff before it ever got to 27, assuming no big drafts to stop ambient room temp to rise and the heat transfer through the slab should absorb alot of the heat from the ashp this is why i feel that the case where it llfted the tiles it was a gas boiler hwich could be heating to much higher temp-- 55c in an attempt to raose floor temp quickly more factual replies of outlet temps and resulting slab temps would be good If 27c at floor delamiated the glue --then i would expect people to have that problem behind big windows in the summer when the syrface of the floor could rise above 27c indirect sustained sunlight maybe contact a floring maker to get more info

system not fitted yet --UFH piping still to be laid -- just tryingto get in front of any problems

I am looking for someone to rebuild a large drystone wall -- approx 1m thick and 4-5 m tall will post pictures soon I am in s/w scotland I have digger and umper and all the stone is there and if not I have any amount of it onsite

as per title flooring supplers are worrying me that i can not have more than 27c output temp if i use stick down vynl tile flooring and are suggesting clikc type vynl flooring is not really suitable due to large floor areas ground floor is 22mX 8m I am worring that in winter I may need to run higher to heat house --all a guess at this stage

ok so go measure what actual temp floor is if ashp is set to 25c --if you don,t mind --obviously when its running on a cold day --some coming very soon.LOL

six pages ofr detail for second part of course with some provisions -- like cost for bathrooms and skitchen -- estimated costs put inehich i can supply own goods for , same goes for ligth fittings etc seems a good way to me

I think this shows how important to get a contract at start -even ifyou split total build into different sections as i have only way to do it with such a large job to me --at least you have a point where you can stop if needed -and or chage contractor I certainly have for both first part of the job and now just signed for second part Ihave been very happy with my builder - and contract is a must so everyone knows whwere they are and when it goes wrong --thats what you would be relying on if its gets legal

I am asking same questions as we aprogressing well and ashould floor covering ina month or two --?? looking at vynl flooring through most of my very large house this was usggested by flooring company ,but to use the stick down flexible type ,not the click type theier reasioning was that with long runs the click type might not be as good ,but as previously sated say there is a max 27c floor temp with UFH can anybody elaborate on these problems if indeed they are problems yes the ASHP will probavly put out 30-32 c -- but thats at source -- what is normal temp of floor most of you are seeing when working hard my guess is it is alot lower but maybe i,m wrong the sales person recounted a story of a house left empty ,presume in winter and when they came back from holidays wacked up the heating to full and it caused some lifting of stuck down tiles I do not know if this was heat pump or a gas fired bioler suppllying UFH I am guessing it was a gas fired UFH system --so temp in pipes could be a lot hotter than an ASHP I look forward to many replies and your views. maybe some of you have data on output temp of ASHP and actual temp in floor slab? i cetainly will never let slab go cold any time as with my current retro woood floor UFH system Ileave on nearly all year round and let stats do thier job

get some wallpaper printer to make you up some ?

that depends on the situation of the site and iwould be interested how you telehandler panels over a 5m stone wall

Idid an old house ab it at a timeby simply building stud walls inside original-did nottouch old stuff --and you would probaly get away with 100mm that way ,as there would be osme insulation inwhat is there now but if you have damp problems then you need go back to brick anaway and sort it --guessing it has no damp course --so maybe dig a channel around outside to stop soil touching wall at floor level if walls are fine then even 75mm foainsulation backed plaster board would make a big difference -dot +dab fixing if walls good ? as for craftsmen -- if not destroying whole house at one go then you can learn as you go --remember its only the outside walls that need to super insulated+ceiling where it joins loft --your making a air tight box inside your drafty old one as for comparison of old build methods to new -- still along way to go even on new types and as for a Tf kit to fit old house --that will never owrk -has to be built onsite or it won,t fit for sure and doing it that way no big cranes needed to lift big panels only big lifting on my job was a telhandler to lift up roof trusses -damn sight cheaper than a crane at mega money per day

the right solution for them is a total gutting build a modern house inside the shell as I am doing with my granite house 700mm granite --then 150mm t/f inside on new concrete floors and underfloor it would it have been cheaper to flatten all --maybe? but would it have the look --no and if your going to stone clad it --then why not use the walls already there ?

only way that would work is if you lived in a country with lots of sun in the winter --then solar thermal could charge up your humungus insulated water tank all summer and winter like the alps where alot of the time there is bright sunlight even when its cold outside Iwas very keen at one stage to do this --but the costs for the and insulation made it non viable Idid see a chalet in the alps that had such a tank --as it was off grid and not very big --so it worked but UK heat pump is the way due to weeks of no sunshine inwinter when you need the heat

recomendations for a grp walk on balcony area no of layers?

if any help iwill tell you how my builders have tanked my old stone building which is 260 years old they built a 4" blokc wall next to stone wall --stuck on tanking membrane then gap and naother 4" wall and filled the gap with concrete If you can get wall dry enough to stick m,embrane then a gap and one " wall and fill gap with sloppy concrete that will work - concrete makes sure no amount of water pressure from other side will lift the mebrane you maybe cannot afford to loose 6" --but that will be a forever solution then dot and dab plaster board on to block wall ?

easy solution is too squirt wasp powder in holes anything that walks through it is dead cannot comment on the legality -but it will stop your problem

I know that if house was built before 1947 then you have an absolute right to double the footprint after that it is by agreement

must be me surely iif beams are weakend then you should sorting that out not trying to save a bit of weight in slates and yes tqpco are not cheap