scottishjohn

Just about to do my first slate roof on the old explosives building .as soon as I get walls+ gables back up and rafters made etc never done slates before - was going to go for tin roof -- but seems a shame not to keep it as it was including a 200year old refurbed sky light skylight was made in dumfries when there were iron works al over - any suggestions for a good slate trimming cutting tool?

single batons will always cause a gather up of dust and bugs over time which is then a condensation dam it then holds damp and causes rot I would always for sarking it will always be stronger +stiffer in wind loads and make it easy to work on the roof while tiling or slating it

I understand what you say -seems like recipe for a family fallout once you decide to sell -then that should be it - not sell it then have another bite later simple agreement on percentage split to other family members is all that was needed -and if not already done --its another fallout that will happen at sometime

I had someone try to do that to me when half way through the deal I just stood my ground walked away 3 years on he has still not sold it seller is being greedy your choice to deal or not always a poker game offer a fixed sum if you develop later ? then you know where you are for calculating further development to expect to get not only a lift from original sale ,but also to have to inflation proofed -- not a deal i would consider

fxxk em -- any trespasses will be getting told very quickly to GTF ,as they say up here .when found wandering my domain no better covid protection than seperation chased 4 guys with inflatable canoes from the quarry lake on saturday

why? put on fake things when nearest neighbour is best part of a mile away I will be resisting very hard on this one

My plans which are now in for my rebuild of the big house I have removed all chimneys as there will be no fires of any kind in the house and am expecting same sort of silly nonsense from planning my first response will be that as I am bringing this house into the 21st century and not burning any fossil fuels or wood then chimneys are pointless and virtual certainty to be a place to have water ingress into the building . a vast expense to pull them down to rebuild with trays in them to stop this happening a cost which could very well be the tipping point of going for a complete new build against a tasteful refurbishment and keeping all exterior granite walls and not keeping any of the original features of the house will just a very bland modern style building we will see what they say

and these holes in the outer wall --do they have go though total wall or just to the rubble fill in middle ? surely air bricks at bottom into the cavity between walls and sealed TF kit would make more sense and top of walls left open connected to a cold roof space and vented through soffits or eves as it was when it had lathe and plaster

UV is minimum you should always do with any bore hole to kill any bacteria that gathers up in your system or storage tanks

main horror stories seem come from roofs where people have laid directly onto the house wrap + sips , instead of having house wrap then a ventilation gap(batons) and then roofing or direct renndering onto sips again instead of having a breathing gap or a gap and cladding you need a ventilation path in any wood framed or sips house my own 1979 tf house has brick outer skin ,but thecavity wall is connected to under the house and the roof is a ciold type so draft comes from under floor up between the brick and wood wall ,then up into the loft and out of soffit vents i tried blocking top of cavity walls 10 years ago and in one winter the plywood roof sarking went black on north side of house -- removed the insulation that was blocking the cavity and it all disappeared that proved to me you need a direct ventilation path as they had in old stone houses with lathe +plaster -seal it and form of condensation or moisture will cause problems over time

only possible problem I can see in an extension to a building warrant is if the stds have changed -and you might have to comply with any new regs on extending the warrant I heard of a rebuild of an old water mill -which had been started -but stopped and when they went to renew were informed that minimum insulation stds had changed -so had to comply with them ,which caused some reworking of structure to comply

rotting of any wood structure is down to how its built ,nothing else . to have mould you must have water ingress

off the wall suggestion If you can remove them the broken ones would glue together with modern stuff? as a last choice

you mean you have sealed the gap between the outer wall and the back of the lathe +plaster?

maybe you are starting from the wrong point you need to sort the insulation and draft problems first can you describe age + type of construction and size of house get the free survey from the energy trust on your house before doing anything

maybe time to think about getting rid of the lathe and plaster and build stud walls -providing rooms are not very small maybe a bigger job then you wanted but is the right way to go long term and also a chance to replace electrics etc at same time and have house with modern insulation stds if rooms are big enough you don,t even need to rip out old plaster +lathes-just build a modern house inside it inside it ? apply vapour barrier to the frames before you lift them up into place and you got full damp proofing at same time and a gap for the old walls to breath into the roof space a house that old will be built with a cold roof and lots of drafts in the loft area -so you kill all problems at same time also will be a job you can do while still living in it ,a bit at a time if you wish filling the gap with anything will stop the air flow to the roof you must have with this type of old house -you will make more damp problems

I do not think that will work as he is going for a demoliish and rebuild to be honest to me house looks too good to flatten anyway -- but everyone to their own they will want everything to comply to latest building spec which means foul and surface will need to be separate and arguing about minor things at this stage is a good recipe for long delays If I were planning I would not be allowing anything but new spec ,as that what you are wanting --a new house + that includes drainage systems good luck with your argument -hope it does not upset them too much and your plans go to the bottom of the pile because of it

very common condition and round here it is a std condition also any gates --have to be set back 6m so you can open up gate go through it and then shut gate -so you are not sat on road while doing it either entering or leaving drain across the road and a big soakaway cage buried in your garden is the answer. they even specified that on my plot where there are no roads drains and have never been for last 200 years suck it up and do what they ask -if thats only condition then its not a biggy anyway and it needs to done before end of build and habitation to be honest i have seen lots that never bother and have not been picked up on it in my area -- how lucky do you feel ?

If that is true maybe I can get someone to build my house for me and they can have it when I die --which will be in next 20-25 years i expect any offers???

the one built next to me is made purely from slot together sheets and is held upright by an exposed exo skeleton steel frame work no side sheeting of any kind with a tin roof on the top for snow loads with about a 30cm gap from the pir roof panels and bird guard mesh -so they no not get a nesting problem up there you could break into it with an electric carving knife or chain saw and steal all the frozen seafood etc it is dark silver outside and white plastic interior skin so it is not a box within a box -just pir foam if other types of insulation were cheaper to do same job --then they could fill the slot together panels with any material

my local BM told me today when I bought some more cement ,and they only have 30 bags,before me taking 6 , left till at least 2 weeks that weld mesh for founds has gone from £30 to £40 a sheet and is short supply

insulation value of a solid wall is by modern stds is so low as to consider as close to nothing gradually heats up in summer and sucks heat out in winter so either external insulation or internal required -as you say you are refurbing then internal seems simplest option new stud walls inside and insulation you can have house you can heat with a light bulb ,assuming you attend to any drafts at same time insulation you only buy once !!

my two pence worth seriously consider major insulation in your refurbishments as priority getting heat loss down should be first thing to do -then look at how you make the heat next I,m guessing walls are solid + no dpc +no cavity so normal practise would be to make a new walls full of insulation 140mm? with a gap between them and outside bit like building a modern TF house inside what you got at same time as doing that look at electrics and water system -- all can be hidden behind walls and maybe just ignore old systems -cover them up and swop over when you are done you can carry on living there while you do -so time will not be a problem to complete the right job high insulation cannot be over stressed when it comes to modernising and running costs

nope -not a resin glue

maybe a help -maybe not we had a problem in a building where we needed to fit an RSJ due to someone cutting the roof trusses and removing an internal supporting wall -but the weight and where it needed to go --as in it had to be hand balled in to a roof space and then moved to support the roof was too much answer our builder came up with -which is still in place 40 years later was a plywood box beam - he remembered from his uni days when doing structural calculations half the weight of an RSJ + could take same load this plywood box beam was from memory about 15ft long basically 1/2" proper plywood ---four sides with zig zag internal top to bottom also made from the same plywood all glued and screwed together