scottishjohn

Ihave same problem with my castlations --each one needs glass in between the wall sections which are high enough idon,t see a problem with pentration for fixing bolts --you just use sealer underneath the brackets tocseal it all up

bad subsoil can be the only reason for 4 layers of mesh

slap a sheet of insulated plasterboard on there maybe?

why so large a cavity -6" cavity is huge

exterior wall? --sounds like a lackof insulation as part of the problem -cold wall hot humid air --BINGO-

getting a price per sqm is menaingless unless unless you include everything .like kitchen ,bathroom ,flooring etc your basic shell could be £1000sqm but then add on kitchens ,bathroom flooring etc it could suddenly be 2k+ sqm-- all depennds on spec you choose can only be valid if you get a turn key build having gone through all the details with the builder I dimissed the flooring cost at the begining as a small item .but having got quotes for stick down vynl planks etc for my 400sqm --thats adds another 30k on it just a shell is nowhere close to finshed move in cost,change skirtings from mdf to real wood ,like oak etc --add another couple of grand ,same with choice of doors or staircase and then oof course the heating system it is not an easy thing to calculate until you have a fixed in stone design and spec . just changing from pvc to alli windoows could more than double the price of them and then of course outside landscaping and driveway etc alot of working out to do for you before you get to a valid total cost

and thats why iwill have my generator in the garage to run a small elctric fire if needed,who knows by then if the build goes to price iwll also have solar and batteries,but that is a maybe -- with cost of panels and batteries idoubt i wil live long enough to get a pay back

go on line and find cable calculator which will give you voltage drop etc over the distance you want and use double the minimum size - https://www.doncastercables.com/technical-help/

who wants to be cutting wood into their 80,s

an altrade belle min petrol mixer will be close to£1000 now ,but if this is start of job,then buyind new and keep it clean will mean you can get 50% ,at least of it back at end of job --. I looked at s/h ones ,but then allow for possible replacement bits .like a g/box £170 ,a new drum ,£180 and god forbid an engine at £400 over the build time . smae goes for buying cheap wheel barow --they don,t last --buy the right one -altrad with puncture proof tyre It will take a FULL load form your mixer and is bulletproof f saw the lumps of granite ihave had in mine and thats 4 years of abuse with granite and stones and concrete etc . the builders onsite brought 2 new cheap ones at start of job and both are looking pretty bent and knackered now was just not worth the chance and get a sparebelt for the mixer --very cheap -but will only break when mixer is full of stuff !! learnt that the hard way this week -- 4 years old and belt broke -- none local so waitng all week for a couple of replacements £16 inc carriage --cost me more than that for my builder standing round and hand emptying and mixing what was in it when it broke

at73 i,m a definite NO-- to wood burners

another + for sips there are no voids and Iwould have gone that way --but with already having granite walls outdie of frame work --no postive way to gat a good vapour barrier when erecting so they stick built on site and wraped eachsection before it was raised up - Idid not go for a built kit --cos no way do ibelive they would have got it right trying to measure the granite walls that were already there another fall out with the architect -cos that was the way she wanted to do it

my builder checked with HMRC as it was refurbisment of a derelict building -- for over 10 years,60 actually -- he came back with chaging 5% vat on all his work and i will claim rest back at the end along with all the other bits i have bought at 20% from other suppliers

thats why you need to understand them yourself and keep checking on them I have hada couple of minor run ins with my builders ,but they know now i willspot what they are up to --so don,t cut corners anymore Iam very happy with my choice of builder and have very few ,mch feqwer than i expected minor problems with them than i expected. and they have respect for what i am doing outside now --now they can see I am nmaking a good job of my part of the job

you are talking about the building trade --lot of muscles but not a lot of common sense -they will just follow the plans --so any good thinking has to be at the beginning and thats hwere a GOOD architect comes inwith lots of detail on how things go together

we are all guessing here unti lwe see a plan of some sort -which brings me back to suggestion that all they have so far is outline planning . which makes me think they have no chance of starting inaugust this year ,by the time its gone back and forward to planning +BC etc we just coming up nicel y to holiday time for the planning staff even maybe the architect and then getting a date from ground works men etc . there will always be delays

ok - thats no problem just up the insulation thickness on top of your sub floor concrete slab- cheaper and easier to do -fix UFH to it ,then screed the pipes in your constant temp will come from no air leaks and good insulation next to living areas or just put a row of ICF blocks at bottom to get you out of the gound?

maybe make it an uoside down house to get that extra head space in living areas?

not convinced on need for it in this country with our climate ,which is getting warmer all the time different story in sone european countries with much lower winter temps and long winters frost line in Uk will never get down to where it would be

you could go for vaulted ceiling upstairs though?

of curse they don,t so move it for them and get rid of all your problems

not sure on english regs ,but scotland 140mm is minimum--so sips gives you that in one go

If you cannot get in your site with a concrete truck and pump --then that is out

less joints and asplines means cheaper and if crane is possible then thats why they go for large panels a telehanlder must go under your overhead cable --so you could stil use one to lift heavy things -ask sips panel suppiiers about wieghts of their panels iwould use my swing dumper with my lifting attachment and screw 4x2 to each panel and lift with that with a chain around the scaffolding pole on the dumper If you look through my posting you will see iwas lifting up to 500kgs with that no problem , so a sips panel would be no problem

I would not let your architect decide it all he maybe has never used them the time you will take to make the frames -erect and then pack stick build with insulation cutting and wasting insulation will be a alot , and if not very good fit -you will get air leaks with sips insulation is already doane and air tightness is almost certain then all you need is vapor barrier held to wall with 25mm strips -which will be your service void for plumbing and electrics and then on with plasterboard worst you will have is a box section to get toilet waste down to ground floor in a corner somewhere ,probaly in the downsstairs toilet once slab is done and wall plate fixed down its a very simple job to fit sips on to them- take a look at the process of fitting the joining splines between the panel dead easy once ground floor panels are up fit a floor then next tow of panels --choices are vast -- but if you really want MVHR - then you will need a very thick floor structure to get the plumbing in.Idid not go for that for technical reasons of building inside an old granite house -floor thcikness wasl imted due to postion of upstairs windows --and nayway my wife insisted she wouls still be opening widows --so pointless and alot money saved - If cooling insummer is an issue then get an ASHP that can also cool as well as heat -then wall head plate and trusses -or if you want rooms in roof then you could use sips for the roof as well -they need no extra support,assuming it is not mega wide -so you have attic completed in one go just make sure you use double battons on top and a very good breathable membrane -then on with your roof covering choice internet search will give you all the info you need sit them on the wall fill in between -then next row of panels If you buy blank panels -you can even leave making window holes till they are all up . I wonder why you do not get a price for burying the overhead cable , maybe would work out simpler / cheaper in the long run ? my quote for my elec supply -3phase 100kv from a pole 140yds away was 11k,with me digging the track -so i can,t think it can be that expensive to drop a cable down each pole and run it underground across the entrance ,especailly if you dig the track for them a days digger hire will kill that . must be worth a enquiry If like here, they will supply the piping for the cable -you bury that with a draw cord and its a simple job for them . I,m suprised the cable is causing a problem as the minimum height is usally around 17ft -so most thing will go under that