scottishjohn

yes if you don,t have enough expansion breaks in a wall very expensive way to parge coat using (blower proof )-- sand and cement mix would be my choice if not hard plastering inside

If it is timber frame ,they are well known for shrinking as wood dries out -,which could be causing cracks in joints and bending of the MGo boards ? were the panels well protected from water when on site before assembly

not hidden looking something its not

If you say so but that last paragraph i would read it different. i) incorporate an earthed metallic covering which complies with the requirements of these Regulations for a protective conductor of the circuit concerned, the cable complying with BS 5467, BS 6724, BS 7846, BS 8436 or BS EN 60702-1 , or (ii) be installed in earthed conduit complying with BS EN 61386-21 and satisfying the requirements of these Regulations for a protective conductor, or (iii) be enclosed in earthed trunking or ducting complying with BS EN 50085-2-1 and satisfying the requirements of these Regulations for a protective conductor, or (iv) be provided with mechanical protection against damage sufficient to prevent penetration of the cable by nails, screws and the like, or (v) form part of a SELV or PELV circuit meeting the requirements of Regulation 414.4

I think it would need some sort of metal conduit in there anyway to be code - certainly it used to be so - jts like you must cover wiring buried in walls with a capping or in a conduit, unless things have changed Its DIY bodge up thing not for new build

yes and no -but can you be sure it won,t come through the edges -for the sake of fitting a membrane behind and tape sealing it ? I look upon the foil as a a layer to reflect cold away more than as a seal

how thick can you stand these new walls to be --that will dictate what you can do . yes foam plasterboard+pir ,but with very serious VCL very well sealed

yep you building a house inside a house --so would need VCL barrier etc vented void from bottom right to top or into roof space,or blocked and vented at top of walls to outside If you think of your 200 year old stone house with lathe and plaster etc there was a void from below ground floor up all the walls into roof and that caused a nice draft to keep everything dry, they did not heat houses like we do so think in those terms and insulated vapour barrier house inside stone exterior bear in mind that if old stone work it should only be pointed with lime based mortar --as cement based will not allow it to breath and moisture go out of walls

yes the lime in the cement will not be good for growth ,but that will change over time as it washs out I made my lawn edging exactly the same to save having to use strimmer --but cut back the cement when still not fully set closer to brick edging. so i had full brick depth but i did make soil level at lot higher ,basically 10mm below brick level and did not have all that gravel rubble ,then turfed it - If seeding i would have filled soil right up to brick level -seeded and rolled -- the gravel +rubble will drain very quick in dry times compared to rest of area i can see in picture the fact that the level of the turf seems to be below the brick level is amplifying the lack of soil for roots maybe top fill the grass with fine compost and raise up the turf level is simple answer now grass will grow up through it . not as though its a bowling green --or a lawn its just grass , IF it is lawn type grass then not cut short enough ,thats why its so coarse looking --but sort out the level before cutting shorter or you will kill it. shorter you cut it the more watering it will need. you could always convert a thin strip next to it into a border?

not convinced that an ICF solid wall house where insulation is on outside and keeping solid wall warm ,same temp as room ,or near enough and with proper MVHR will ever have the required temp dif of wall and air to get condensation but interested to know how and where you would fit a vcl on these types of build ?

my first thought have you checked pricing of modern composite cladding as used in modern portal industrial buildings? theres a reason why they used it and I bet its cost you can get it very thick and that would very easy -beef up on inside between pillars you will get mega insulation value,with what ever system you like TF -sips If it is an agricultural shed --then yes you will need extra wind bracing for non agricultural--for sure you do in scotland If you were building new and it was not classed as agricultural the even the main steels and rod trusses have to be larger than minimum you need for an agricultural build I had this problem when wanting to build an aircraft hanger they would not accept farm spec for wind or snow loading for anything other than a farm building walls between the 3 units will need to be fire proof --so ICF --durisol -isotex -velox or block work --also these will be best for sound proofing just 2 pence worth

in the process of studying dry wall finish against chasing wall for electrics + then mechanical spray plastering -- used in europe for years --now plenty of uk companies that do it--will be good for air tightness as well easy to chase woodcrete --and how often do you REALLY want to add new electric supplies? ball park figure i,m being told by an ICF supplier is around £8 sqm -for spray plastering finished job . so anyone done a calculation of proper drylining with service void ? cos with drywall stuck on , you might as well go hard plaster

if you can make a big vegggie tunnel over it even better heat from ground should do it

If you chase channels out on inside of wall for your electrics then hard plaster ,that will do the same . and if cladding outside ,then maybe house wrap it under the batons for the cladding but if going rendered that will also serve to do the same plenty of good options should be less concrete cost using durisol or isotex as they are 120mm concrete - lot of poly types are much thicker

I did not for one second say that its only to do with heat , you can look at my posts and take things in isolation if you like . as the last few have done and make a post filled with non specifics -fine with me i know how they work and what will make a good roof -- END OF

temp has an effect on how much vapour air can hold before it becomes saturated and becomes liquid and therefore cannot pass the membrane . so if roof is cold above membrane and hotter below there can still be passage of the hotter vapour from inside to outside ,where it will condense or evporate and cannot go back inwards and runs down roof as water so yes hot air and cold air does a have an effect for a very clever fella you seem to be one dimensional with your thinking when it suits . tin roof/slates heat up --that heats the membrane and boarding ,any damp on inside will turn into vapour and then exit through the membrane where it is evaporated by the air flow up the gap which is caused by the convection of hot air as it expands and rises thats how all these membranes work ,

I think me meant was is sitting on top of this raised area --like the extension maybe?

If using concrete panels then maybe you have a farmer who has some sillage pit panels +posts he don,t use anymore? If BC wants details you are buggered cos he will want to see a SC approved drawing,showing drainage system .so you don,t end up making a slurry dam . you certainbly should have some drianage/weepage at bottom of wall

you told me yesterday you will never need to remove anyway ,as only servicing will be through flush panel

you can remove the bolts once the sika has set --thats how good a grab its gets you would use your multicut to slice the bond to get it off .same as we do when removing vehicle bonded windscreens

most peoples ducting will be much shorter than any mvhr system though

I,m sure there are cheaper ones that do not hide in island and only appear when you want to use it -I stated that one as an example of how silly some the prices can be a quick look https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Cooker_Hood_Index/Luxair_Hood_Index/Luxair_Recirculating/index.html £880-£1000

the point is a mute one in the real world., talking in relative terms if the air outside membrane is cold and on other side of membrane it is hotter then vapour is not going to move inwards as hot air expands and cold contracts ,so the natural flow will always be from hot to cold ,so vapour will always want move outwards and any condensation dripping from roof slates etc that forms on outside of membrane is not a vapour --so it will not pass though anyway . I would be first to agree if you have lots of vapour already on inside of membrane,which condenses ,then it will not flow through until it is vapour . so we go back to what i said in the beginning . when you clad roof with OSB -then you must fit membrane same day if possible -before you wet the osb and potentially trap vapour. It is highly unlikley that vcl will have been fitted anyway at this stage , so maybe a couple of days before membrane is fitted will not be the end of the world it can dry out inwards untill the insulation and the vcl is fitted anyway . this is why kit houuse suppliers who make panels have then pre membraned before arrival on site -to keep them dry I really don,t see anyone fitting osb in freezing temps anyway,so no worry on ice formation your VCL is what you must get right and then there can be no big amounts of vapour coming from house on inside to condense give it a few weeks after building to settle and it will just get drier all the time on inside of membrane as what ever vapour is trapped there moves outwards

totally agreed. dry lining is a finish system not part of the shell of the house . and that is what must be air tight .--the outer shell. can anybody see them altering the regs to make air testing before drylining ,as obvious as it is that that is when it should be done. when will that will happen? NEVER

I looked at price of one of those recirculting extracts that cone up out of an island over £3k- I, won,t be doing that it will be a direct to outside job with flap on outside grille