scottishjohn

durisol and any woodcrete block are so rough they are perfect surface for rendering simple "scratch coat" to seal it up , no way will it need extra mesh over what any other surface would need to apply a render to I have not priced outside render as i am probably going for cladding or stone /brick slips that could be normal price for modern type of render here you go http://www.ukimperial.co.uk/K-rend-cost-price

just a thought but I have seen same problem when gutter is fitted to tight to end of slates and a bit low ,so when water comes off roof in downpour it nearly shoots over the outer edge . some roofs are built with a different shallower angle for last couple of slates or even just the last slate to slow it down the water for that reason . there is a name for it ,but i can,t remember it at this time .old age

I,m talking rubbish --as usual ,some would say just made my own enquires for contract plastering -hard verus drywall. the ICF supplier was being a salesman again i think quotes I have just got are arond £25 per sqm --and very little difference between drywall +hardwall in costs just more drying time for 2 coat hardwall system If anybody knows different please enlighten us

A few of us the same i think my view on chasing walls for electrics has now swung in favour doing it +hard plaster finish I have been given rough quotes for spray plastering ,as they do on mostly in EU around £8per sq m ---so maybe could be the right way -- contractors -come in !"hit it" and its done I have not had a firm quote yet for fabric of building as still don,t have finished plans --but suprised velox is more expensive. or are you including using Velox type floor system as well ?,which could distort comparison some what if not including joists and flooring for other systems I was expecting it to be cheaper as much simpler wall panels ,maybe all the metal ties and things Is the the extra concrete thickness --150mm in stead of 120mm ?

welcome to the forum not much glass in south side --you worried about too much solar gain ? solar gain is free heating . pity your in devon or i would make you an offer for old steel framing --need some for workshop

https://www.guttersupplies.co.uk/guides-and-tips/gutter-installation/your-questions/how-far-apart-should-fascia-brackets-be-installed/

wet room floor design for wheel chair friendly access --eg no lips . do you just pour slab as normal or leave that area slightly low and unfinished for space for all the plumbing and required slopes etc. next question japanese toilet --any experience of them in us any good for old folk who find it hard to bend to wipe the bum etc are they reliable ? thinking about relations +me in times to come

all these 10k lumps for things add up and not sure really if a jcb type -wouldn,t be more useful all round

not sure it will stay flexible for 30years caravns tend to leak as they get old -better with simple pu sealer/adhesive

I,m looking now for a digger --not cheap though

here is a reasonable priced tape https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/product/novia-double-sided-butyl-tape-30mm-x-30m.html If you want to tape it

12tubes!!!! ---just wee squeak that all it will need -should not come out side of baton so you going to build an ICF crypt as well? .lol or is it a viking funeral

that should help your thoughts a bit LOL. without even looking at the small slinky ,which i doubt could give you the heat at a high COP you are wanting. plus when you look around further you will find that slinkies are not well liked by a lot of GSHP consultants . modern preferred method now is simple trench single pipe going up and down spaced at least 2-3m apart . read this http://sourceenergy.co.uk/how-much-space-do-you-need-for-a-ground-source-heat-pump/

If i was that worried i would use sealer under baton as I nailed , got to be cheaper and will seal for sure think your over thinking it - -water ,if there is any and its a sloping roof and a ventilated space , has to get all the way through your baton to even get close to a hole ? which is filled with a fixing and the membrane is under compression from baton . quite sure will work fine till your in the grave . my roof on present house has horizontal batons on top of tar paper ,as they did in the past i can see the plywood inside the roof from loft. not just nailed to trusses as they are big ones and well spaced can see nails coming through plywood sarking and no sign of corrosion --so must be no water getting through

once i get to a plan ,that is one thing I will try to quantify .both on cost +insulation value difference between sips panels and fully trussed roof and all the insulation etc . and then non sarking type roof as an option as well roof on in a day is very attractive part of the sips choice

the 20 houses built next to my current house. making a small scheme -built in about 1992 by robison &davison locally know as R&D or rough and dangerous they were all built with english type roof ,no sarking boards ,so there must be a loop hole somewhere or SE has assured planning that they will take wind loads ?? . so yes its not a new thing houses being built by the bigger builders not using sarking board roofs in scotland I suppose it could be a balancing cost factor between more skinner trusses +sarking and thicker ones and no sarking I doubt it will be a wind loading factor that sways big builders on which way to build

ice cubes make good sealer bead shaping tool--make your own shape used to use them for sealing on doorskin replacement--don,t stick to anything loads of tile levelling systems example https://www.vitrex.co.uk/products/lash-tile-levelling-system/ loads of similar systems -- u tube even has videos comparing different systems

certainly you hear it no problem when it touches even slightly I just had an old teaspoon lying about on garage shelf and i wanted something make her pay attention over the music from radio

no , but it was an obvious use --I just watch the posts on here on sunamp - not looked at their site for months not on my shopping list till the pricing comes down a good chunk

I used to have a spoon hanging up which just touched windscreen on drivers side when in far enough to shut door

I can see far more better immediate uses in the motor industry for it . make smaller units in hundreds of thousands and price will drop instant heating of car in the morning ,with very little energy usage ,only a circulation pump , water heating for your motorhome for living space and DHW as you drive along wi-fi from house before you open it up --etc. it is using excess free heat to charge it up anyway ,will come from engine exhaust or cooling system or maybe from regenerative braking system or drive motor on an electric car or maybe a solar thermal system on house to charge it up --rather than using a big thermal store for DHW or UFH but price needs to drop first I think

whilst i can see the advantages of sunamp in some circumstances --excess pv etc I personally and i,m not wanting an argument am not convinced of the overall advantage considering costs at this stage maybe that will change as the technology improves which is exactly why i want service void to be able simply alter things in the future

think that would be a question for JS for the control of the units, I was assuming most would be using PV for rechariging nothot water but if using smaller units then it might work out better with current software on the c uni Q have where it won,t charge till well depleted ,so it might be self diverting -- definately one for JS or NICK he will have a way for sure . but of course your design of house will have a bearing on what is best for you comes back to old story of not making anything till design is set in stone to be right first time thats the hard bit .LOL I doubt i will think of all scenarios when designing this is why I,m still thinking of having 0.75 - 1m service cavity "wet wall" down one side of house connected to service room ,so it easy to make any changes in spec in the future without ripping things apart. maybe won,t be possible --time will tell

I thought it was just a heat store ? how you deploy it is your choice ,so why not at point of use would save heat losses between bathrooms if long pipe runs in a big house or granny flat annex just a suggestion

still in use now can fly low +slow very handy +is very heavily armoured