scottishjohn

quality in house building by big companies would be a better topic .LOL

If you now thinking elec boiler /immersion heater then small dhw water tank as buffer and expansion vessel -job done .nick the plumber will probably confirm or say i,m talking rubbish , and give you better solution but i think you can get small tanks with expansion vessel built in , so then its just plumb to mains pressure + add a circulation pump my reason for using inline boiler is a more accurate constant temp control than a simple immersion element .

this is what i would be using for heat supply in your small build https://electricaldealsdirect.co.uk/heatrae-sadia-amptec-c600-6kw-electric-boiler.html?msclkid=bc823df1a32818b32ba061a8ea6c5a8c&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Heatrae Sadia Shopping AD&utm_term=4583245503759036&utm_content=AD - heatrae sadia %26 Heatrae Sadia Amptec C600 6kW Electric Boiler (EDDSADIA108) presuming you still going UFH only advantage i can really see for UFH in that building is to get more space and flexibility of layout as radiators or heaters will take up wall space

I got over 2acres done for £450 december last year

some people like the look --at least 2 grand designs have had it as wall cladding . and simple go back and see what he said he wanted and it a garage when all said and done -don,t matter what you or i think

ASHP should not be noisy if you pick one that is plenty big enough so its always running at low speed for your heat requirement. with garden space you have for GSP --a bore hole would only way +that will end being 3 times the price of ASHP system main thing is to get building insulation as good as poss then you will need so much less heat to start with at size of floor you quote i doubt its worth either --UFH as you say and a simple electric inline boiler and economy 7 . only if you want to use ashp for cooling of slab in summer might it be worth it lot more tecchie people than me on here who will direct you better

If its just flames or very realistic flame effect . then go see a dimplex optimyst about 20 dif designs https://uk.video.search.yahoo.com/search/video?fr=mcafee&p=dimplex+optimyst#id=4&vid=db83b79e1ce790b516a7b1cf316dcbb0&action=click

JET HOSE !! that would be equivalent to a class 7 hurricane or worse --suspect you blew holes in or surface was badly rubbed what was over the top of this membrane ? left open to UV for too long before it was clad? not meant to be subjected to direct sunlight or it degrades if atmospheric pressure is 14,7 psi --then even 2 bar from garden hose is higher pressure than you will ever see a jet wash will be 10-15 bar -- or at the bottom of sea 100 metres down so hardly a fair test

insulation,vcl then osb +paint? ,or leave it "aux natural"

I looked when i posted before and i could find 120mm drywall no problem on ebay vcl will need to go directly to insulation then batobs then drywall or you will be cutting holes in it for lights

oops what ever yo do you going to need to mark all your rafters well so you can find them with the drywall fixings maybe something like this https://www.twistfix.co.uk/insulation-fixings?msclkid=41076a7a775a19e9c0c23622113a79f6&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign then you will need 110-120mm drywall screws for plasterboard

then plasterboard after that? If you not bought cellotex it yet --why not 92.5mm insulted plaster board job done in one go and its simple long screws then

I saw a system on internet that was made to seal up leaky houses it was basically a spray system that you set going whilst adding positive pressure to inside of house and the very small particles in the airstream migrate to the gaps and block them up and as it was a nice red colour you could see where it was going a bit like a "radweld " for your car . whilst I,m not saying it is the best solution ,it shows how many people have problems for someone to make such a system

I know when Iooked at ashp and contacted plumbers etc the list of those i would consider got short very quickly after asking questions and I do not profess to be as switched on as alot of others here . but you could tell by responses that most had done very few and waffled alot . It was that that made me eventually go for eco dan unit with plumbed cylinder package --as it was pretty well a simple fit . even then the programming confused them an and alot of calls to mitsubishi technical fair enough though --when sorted it has run faultess i just leave it on 24/7 and let the room thermostats control temps . what i can say is it has cut heating bills by £1000 a year over the lpg --or 2/3rds of heating costs this house is no where close to even a good new build TF --as far as insulation

If its lime mortar ,will it need air gap -- fill in the gap behind studding with spray foam --the no where for roland and friends to be plus its more insulation + wall moisture should go outwards as it will be sealed by foam ?? something to consider maybe ?

have a relatively thinner slab if you want quick heat change ,but as JS says it will also cool quicker no free lunchs but a suspended floor will need a different solution maybe a dry biscuit mix ,all depends how much height you got to play with I did a retro fit ufh in suspended floor 17years ago in present house - and to keep floor height as it was I routed all the chipboard flooring to take small bore ufh pipes then got strength back in floor by sheathing in 8mm ply glued and screwed and under floor fitted with 75mm pur ,then air gap and space blanket whole of underside of floor yes it works, and i could do it a bit at a time while house was livable as I was lucky enough to have 2-3ft ish under house to work in would i do it that way again NOT A chance - very slow and hard work should have bite the bullet and accepted a bit less ceiling height and trimmed the doors and built a 40mm thick system on top- would have been done in a week success and failure will be dependant on attention to detail

so how did that compare with osb+vcl in price --could end being cheaper maybe?. providing you comparing 12mm osb and not 9mm

yes if you don,t have enough expansion breaks in a wall very expensive way to parge coat using (blower proof )-- sand and cement mix would be my choice if not hard plastering inside

If it is timber frame ,they are well known for shrinking as wood dries out -,which could be causing cracks in joints and bending of the MGo boards ? were the panels well protected from water when on site before assembly

not hidden looking something its not

If you say so but that last paragraph i would read it different. i) incorporate an earthed metallic covering which complies with the requirements of these Regulations for a protective conductor of the circuit concerned, the cable complying with BS 5467, BS 6724, BS 7846, BS 8436 or BS EN 60702-1 , or (ii) be installed in earthed conduit complying with BS EN 61386-21 and satisfying the requirements of these Regulations for a protective conductor, or (iii) be enclosed in earthed trunking or ducting complying with BS EN 50085-2-1 and satisfying the requirements of these Regulations for a protective conductor, or (iv) be provided with mechanical protection against damage sufficient to prevent penetration of the cable by nails, screws and the like, or (v) form part of a SELV or PELV circuit meeting the requirements of Regulation 414.4

I think it would need some sort of metal conduit in there anyway to be code - certainly it used to be so - jts like you must cover wiring buried in walls with a capping or in a conduit, unless things have changed Its DIY bodge up thing not for new build

yes and no -but can you be sure it won,t come through the edges -for the sake of fitting a membrane behind and tape sealing it ? I look upon the foil as a a layer to reflect cold away more than as a seal

how thick can you stand these new walls to be --that will dictate what you can do . yes foam plasterboard+pir ,but with very serious VCL very well sealed

yep you building a house inside a house --so would need VCL barrier etc vented void from bottom right to top or into roof space,or blocked and vented at top of walls to outside If you think of your 200 year old stone house with lathe and plaster etc there was a void from below ground floor up all the walls into roof and that caused a nice draft to keep everything dry, they did not heat houses like we do so think in those terms and insulated vapour barrier house inside stone exterior bear in mind that if old stone work it should only be pointed with lime based mortar --as cement based will not allow it to breath and moisture go out of walls