scottishjohn

Is this a trick question? 75mm outside or inside ? is it wood or concrete you going through you mean interior stud wall when you say partion ?

makes a difference when the agent also is builder and can do a turn key if you want -they not going to sell stuff they don,t like building

not got there yet -still plot problems +arguing on final design allowed . but If going poly ICF it would be Isodom2000 no doubt -like the locking pin shapes compared to others -loads of different elements off the shelf + less joins has to be big plus

probably just experience .lol

yep, you are right thought you just looking for correct tools

its a cattle trough in 25mm , and i wanted to know now not in a few weeks time I can use that while building .but as they are other complications with roads etc ,wanted to leave real water connection till I could get all that sorted out + dug in one go

yes but if just want a quick check on a plot before buying to see where things are ,and not just take sellers word for it- its instant and not expensive in the scheme of things JS -- tried that with scottish water-- no interested till you put a full application in It certainly suited my position as I knew I was at end of services --so wanted an idea of distance for cost before waiting for solictors etc - still not bought yet !! -sellers solicitors are so slow - . they said water was on site yes a cattle trough --but that pipe comes under another persons ground + is only 25mm!! If you know of cheaper that would also be a good post for people to have as a resource

Idon,t see ICF forms as being more expensive than a lot of joiners time and wood to make forms ,when so many simple ICF systems YOU can build the basement or retaining walls required in a couple of days . excavation will be same what ever system you go for , woodcrete type need no or very minimal bracing up to 2m per pour,velox say 3m with internal wall braces built in(triangular rebar structure ) for strength and to keep vertical see Velox +durisol +Isotex --can be with or without insulation just don,t see reusable metal forms with crane hire you would need or purpose built wood shuttering being cheaper --concrete will be the same as will re -bar if needed step bloc is another type of CF just concrete blocks with holes you fill you want to go poly type+insulated then check izodom 2000 system- 2m lengths of wall with variable tie length so you can have thickness you want how much quicker than this do you want to build a wall!!

did you even look https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=standing+seam+roofing

here you go http://www.metalsolutions.uk.com/home.htm

decent tin snips my guess you might need 3 types --straight +l/h cut +r/h cut duck bill pliers --maybe panel gripping shaped mole grips and remove the locking bar https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-5PC-TRADESMAN-TROWEL-SET-CONSTRUCTION-HAND-TOOLS-BUILDING-SOFT-GRIP-HANDLE/302969987144?hash=item468a6b2048:g:~LcAAOSwNYtb-D45:rk:11:pf:0 cheap i know --but can,t find duck bill on its own a site that does metal roofing tools https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CRANKED-180-mm-DECK-SEAMING-PLIERS-TONGS-FOLDERS-ROOFING-TINSMITH/401701040496?hash=item5d873f7170:g:92cAAOSwK9ZcWJEb:rk:3:pf:1&frcectupt=true goggle the world --someone has it somewhhere

my guess is his trusses will be too far apart for plasterboard ,and he won,t want to strap it at right spacing, judging how he wants to do it cheap, and its a shed anyway so OSB will take bigger spans than plasterboard without sagging in a couple of years time.

I would --but thats just me- those extra edge noggins might be handy for attaching air barrier to as well

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which on most builds will mean a down pipe at each corner of the building with be fine,maybe an extra one in the middle someone will have a roof area calculator /gutter size spread sheet. If they have would a handy post as a "sticky"

and how much each are those pieces ? before you tell me i know now no self builder could afford them or use them to build a basement with them . ICF will do anything you need for a domestic build at affordable prices

Ive used Tbar when doing a jumbo gyproc steel framed wall come to think of it got a load left hidden under old van body in garage compound .lol

sourced in UK? was not aware you could special order drywall at those sizes

not hard to find just goggle https://www.amazon.co.uk/Air-Tightness-Tape-Gerband-Hermetic-60mm/dp/B0767JBMR6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549654230&sr=8-2&keywords=gerband

If you doing a near passiv self build ,why skimp on plasterboard -use 15 mm though out --will just improve sound proofing and insulation value. you spend 10k on an insulated slab then penny pinch on plasterboard --no sense to me.

more thickness to put screws in edges and unless you on std 8ft ceilings you going to have some joints anyway . if doing a proper finish coat it don,t matter anyway tapered edges were made to allow just filling joints and sanding --for cheapness . a proper plaster job should not need any sanding when finished if he polished it correctly and square edges won,t phase a REAL plasterer at all,

yanks have 12ft or 16ft sheets x 4ft wide.

will probably be mandatory in some parts of uk for BC take a look at VELOX system maybe. and yes --again will be mandatory in some parts of uk . and a perimeter french drain as well that's like a durex warranty-- too late when you need to claim on it and so much will depend on your ground conditions and water table again check Velox and also isotex system --both do them and you use rebar from walls to tie it in . using std shuttering --you got pay to rent it -then remove it --seems a waste compared to an ICF system to me if you want to use poly type go look at Isodom 2000. loads to chose from

just a thought. has this waste pipe got a u trap in it? or something --not just a direct open connection so no smell from drains can percolate back up ?

a non building professional approach dpc top and bottom of the sleeper wall you are building between your beam and block floor and the foundation slab below ,presuming that slab is capable of taking the transferred load from above and pack it tight so you don,t point load beam and block floor could be rubbish --you decide --just my ramblings