scottishjohn

after some more talking to plasters another suggestion came up --which could be quite good bury all electrics totally in wall then, as the woodcrete walls are flat anyway glue and screw drywall directly to walls -- not really dot +dab --but hard up to wall ,as you can screw directly to woodcrete + the plasterboard glue then apply simple but thinner 2 coat plaster finish . cost of doing base coat i have been told by 3 different people with be about same price as plasterboard,,but no chance of problems with wet plaster adhesion ,as some feel the woodcrete could suck all the life out of the first coat cos its very absorbant so could need some sort of sealing to be super sure of good adhesion and correct drying cycle . now it will cut cost down as I will be fitting all the plasterboard,except metal corners --most plasters like to do that them selves +just simple plastering job for the professional

40mm enough to get all drain connections etc happy without lots of grief, certainly don,t need 40mm of slope and did you lower UFH piping in those areas ?

checking victoria plumb they seem to range from £600 -£5k if you really want to be silly

well you won,t get overheating as alot complain bout with big windows

not impressed how they seem to make big deal of a 2 years no crack warranty -- like my pebble dash on my current house has been there 30 years and is fine --no mesh just sand and cement . so juts how much better are these fancy renders --makes you wonder

all I am suprised at the need for mesh on a rough woodcrete block -- woodcrete will have as much if not more grip than brick or block work . maybe its the way i read your post i read it as though the mesh was needed because of type of block as an extra to normal rendering ?

durisol and any woodcrete block are so rough they are perfect surface for rendering simple "scratch coat" to seal it up , no way will it need extra mesh over what any other surface would need to apply a render to I have not priced outside render as i am probably going for cladding or stone /brick slips that could be normal price for modern type of render here you go http://www.ukimperial.co.uk/K-rend-cost-price

just a thought but I have seen same problem when gutter is fitted to tight to end of slates and a bit low ,so when water comes off roof in downpour it nearly shoots over the outer edge . some roofs are built with a different shallower angle for last couple of slates or even just the last slate to slow it down the water for that reason . there is a name for it ,but i can,t remember it at this time .old age

I,m talking rubbish --as usual ,some would say just made my own enquires for contract plastering -hard verus drywall. the ICF supplier was being a salesman again i think quotes I have just got are arond £25 per sqm --and very little difference between drywall +hardwall in costs just more drying time for 2 coat hardwall system If anybody knows different please enlighten us

A few of us the same i think my view on chasing walls for electrics has now swung in favour doing it +hard plaster finish I have been given rough quotes for spray plastering ,as they do on mostly in EU around £8per sq m ---so maybe could be the right way -- contractors -come in !"hit it" and its done I have not had a firm quote yet for fabric of building as still don,t have finished plans --but suprised velox is more expensive. or are you including using Velox type floor system as well ?,which could distort comparison some what if not including joists and flooring for other systems I was expecting it to be cheaper as much simpler wall panels ,maybe all the metal ties and things Is the the extra concrete thickness --150mm in stead of 120mm ?

welcome to the forum not much glass in south side --you worried about too much solar gain ? solar gain is free heating . pity your in devon or i would make you an offer for old steel framing --need some for workshop

https://www.guttersupplies.co.uk/guides-and-tips/gutter-installation/your-questions/how-far-apart-should-fascia-brackets-be-installed/

wet room floor design for wheel chair friendly access --eg no lips . do you just pour slab as normal or leave that area slightly low and unfinished for space for all the plumbing and required slopes etc. next question japanese toilet --any experience of them in us any good for old folk who find it hard to bend to wipe the bum etc are they reliable ? thinking about relations +me in times to come

all these 10k lumps for things add up and not sure really if a jcb type -wouldn,t be more useful all round

not sure it will stay flexible for 30years caravns tend to leak as they get old -better with simple pu sealer/adhesive

I,m looking now for a digger --not cheap though

here is a reasonable priced tape https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/product/novia-double-sided-butyl-tape-30mm-x-30m.html If you want to tape it

12tubes!!!! ---just wee squeak that all it will need -should not come out side of baton so you going to build an ICF crypt as well? .lol or is it a viking funeral

that should help your thoughts a bit LOL. without even looking at the small slinky ,which i doubt could give you the heat at a high COP you are wanting. plus when you look around further you will find that slinkies are not well liked by a lot of GSHP consultants . modern preferred method now is simple trench single pipe going up and down spaced at least 2-3m apart . read this http://sourceenergy.co.uk/how-much-space-do-you-need-for-a-ground-source-heat-pump/

If i was that worried i would use sealer under baton as I nailed , got to be cheaper and will seal for sure think your over thinking it - -water ,if there is any and its a sloping roof and a ventilated space , has to get all the way through your baton to even get close to a hole ? which is filled with a fixing and the membrane is under compression from baton . quite sure will work fine till your in the grave . my roof on present house has horizontal batons on top of tar paper ,as they did in the past i can see the plywood inside the roof from loft. not just nailed to trusses as they are big ones and well spaced can see nails coming through plywood sarking and no sign of corrosion --so must be no water getting through

once i get to a plan ,that is one thing I will try to quantify .both on cost +insulation value difference between sips panels and fully trussed roof and all the insulation etc . and then non sarking type roof as an option as well roof on in a day is very attractive part of the sips choice

the 20 houses built next to my current house. making a small scheme -built in about 1992 by robison &davison locally know as R&D or rough and dangerous they were all built with english type roof ,no sarking boards ,so there must be a loop hole somewhere or SE has assured planning that they will take wind loads ?? . so yes its not a new thing houses being built by the bigger builders not using sarking board roofs in scotland I suppose it could be a balancing cost factor between more skinner trusses +sarking and thicker ones and no sarking I doubt it will be a wind loading factor that sways big builders on which way to build

ice cubes make good sealer bead shaping tool--make your own shape used to use them for sealing on doorskin replacement--don,t stick to anything loads of tile levelling systems example https://www.vitrex.co.uk/products/lash-tile-levelling-system/ loads of similar systems -- u tube even has videos comparing different systems

certainly you hear it no problem when it touches even slightly I just had an old teaspoon lying about on garage shelf and i wanted something make her pay attention over the music from radio

no , but it was an obvious use --I just watch the posts on here on sunamp - not looked at their site for months not on my shopping list till the pricing comes down a good chunk