scottishjohn

unless its changed it should be ,but yes as you say not for space heating last time i asked I looked at it when i changed to ASHP, but the extra i was going to get OVER that I already got for ASHP made it not worth getting an MCS to fit it . I used plumbed eco dan solar cylinder +controller,but as far as they were concerned no solar was connected. doing it again i would not do it that way as the protocol for DHW on plumbed cylinder would reduce the hours i could get from solar ,when that should be first priority for DHW at all times

the extra could just be the lack of them building real air tight houses !! by fiddling the tests

yes solar is eligible for RHI

left one - -how you fitting drywall on top of this ? direct with screws or batons ? maybe make sure your drywall fixings don,t clash with theses fixings fixings done like left one could break the foil on insulation ?

thats just your view -- convincing numbers for both the systems from scratch is what is needed -

like all thse things it comes down to designing the system . but yes a simple non complex system will give you 80%of your hot water needs with 1 panel +heat store . and cost not much to do . and if it is a modern close to passiv house --that will be your biggest heating expense year round I am awaiting someone doing a new spreadsheet on actual costs on PV now grants have gone and pay back time . the fact that no one seems to be pushing selling PV systems anymore ithink gives us the answer the 7year payback is now twice or more . so come boys convince me I,m wrong with figures

now virtually all grants +FIT gone on PV I do not see how it is viable to start off now with PV even if you can do it and fit it all yourself its still a lot of years just to get a draw +presuming no mechanical expenses like replacement of invertor

first question must be --how good is build --is it near passiv --or old leaky thing can you get mains gas?

that looks very similar to mine -bought years ago how is it sealed to stop drafts as my one never has been draft proof

only way it will loose pressure is if you site is a lot higher than where it comes from -then pressure will drop . https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/30000/static-water-pressure-vs-height

start with full spec of house you want to alter , and current insulation levels if you want meaningful replies for solutions.

I agree with all that has been said above the term in the tile "Effective" Is that from a technical angle or cost --thats where views could diverge and is it a self build or contractor build . I think you must make a hard decision on that early on in the process an idea of budget for the build as well as plans or size/type of building

and this is not black +white? -- the only thing i see there is the beads are at least twice as wide as they need to be to do the same job and use twice as much product ,will take longer to cure right through cos of the thickness the idea is to make the sealing as invisible as possible is it not ? what ever !!

as you are an expert at this i will say no more on the subject

never said other methods were wrong never have done --the man stated he wanted SOLID thick walls that all. which is why i did not suggest TF or sips to start with thank you for the info on block weight verus concrete -- I stand corrected--i don,t know difference in wights of dif spec concrete mixs never weighed one --all heavy to me -- 120mm concrete core is what durisol +isotex UK spec use --never seen any durisol then ? that is a non argument as the ICf I pointed him too has a 0.10 value at size stated with no internal or external finish . and it is thick like he wants . not even going into all the other arguments of TF /sips verus solid or ICF no one mentioned brick slip finish --he stated 2 block wall + void which he could render or clad or what ever ,same as you can with any other system just more choices for him if he wishes to look at them

not compared to what he was saying 2 rows of blocks. @100 mm minimum each block ,makes ICF 25% less at 150mm or 40% if you go for 120mm core roughly. does not sound like a TF or sips man --so in solid construction it is lighter

To get a nice half round or oblong shape bead for sealing door skins we cut that shape out of one side of knozzle . other side was cut square and drag it so the shaped side was at back ,so you get this shaped bead left behind play about with knozzle size and cut angles. you don,t need to get that tricky

you want thick walls and less weight and good insulation . ICF is your way you can get all the strength you need with a 120-150 mm concrete core and have insulation up to 250mm thick on outside with some systems .which will be 50% better than minimum passiv house wall spec ,even better by the time you add internal plaster or drywall example izodom 2000 super kingblock spec https://econekt.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/ECONEKT.-ICF-Elements-Brochure2.pdf see page 10 and with your ground problems maybe slab is made with rebar sticking out which ICF bonds onto --making it more monolithic can still be done on top of screw piles

cut at 45 to 60 angle so you can have gun at an angle . get it perfect and there will be no waste at all

to me --still looks like the knozzle are cut too big and maybe even more angle --keep praticing. but much much better

me -- i would chuck the red bits and use the 4 pink things that are very flexible and get in corners little else will . practise on some waste -nail a couple of bits together to make an angle to practise on- chamfer them half way through at 45 to give the gap like you got on your bog .

use at least a quarter as much next time and spread it out , its just practice

pity your in Kent -- i would come and show you how

yep, thats them used to be Durisol agent . I checked price of the stepbloc --dearer than any of the ICF systems - -thats why we dont, see an insulated version being sold for house building I am guessing ,other wise its basically same idea as any ICF system .maybe it will come

you have not cut the nozzle correctly --far too big and wrong shape .thats the problem try cutting some of your other spare nozzles into different shapes and much smaller -try them on waste bit of board --no tape --just get the bead right size before wasting anymore on the real job- tape should not be sealed over by choice -its just going to give hard thick edge of sealer when you remove it. its a safety edge so you can smear it in right shape and excess goes on to tape, but there should be no measurable thickness on tape right close to sealer ,so when removed you don,t end up with an edge shape should have finished before getting to tape ideally . If you want to keep working it ,wet your finger or use ice cube like i said before,if you don,t it will skin too quick +pull