scottishjohn

"jeyes fluid" is what i used for cleaning paths before i got power washer . but if you have a power washer that's easiest way just been doing that today on my block paving its a yearly job as everything goes green , black or red with the air being so clean here, I can get 20 years patina in one year on things

I will check that tomorrow as i,m in the process of buying land with poles on . not that they are a problem cannot understand DNO not including the usual phrase "and or successors"-which means it would be binding on the next owner

get them to send you a copy . It will be very unusual if there is not one already If they have one anything you want them to do will be at your expense

it could look like a urinal as the delorean did - and how slippy +cold would it be? non starter for me - on lots of grounds ,first one being cost of materials all doable if you wanted too

I don,t think you know how much that would cost .LOL

as non of this stainless steel unit is showing ,don't see the point in using it my vote would be construct frame from anything you like that's solid and GRP minimum 3 layers ,then tile or what ever -job done and alot cheaper and any shape you like and half way up the walls if you like

fixing batons will be interesting as the fixings screws will need to be very very long 70mm foam +50mm baton=120mm + fixing in rafters =150mm+ ? sorry, re read 70mm insulation --sure in another post you said 80mm insulation --still a very long screws

post up your approved plans for this building . the ones passed by planning . these will show foundation detail etc

are you the SISMO uK agent humpty dumpty ? you post lots of velox pictures ,most of which I have may seen before on other sites--don,t see any of SISMO builds ?

their website is so poor with very little real information ,no construction manual ,or listing of components not for me

LO ok mr angry says how you going to get the correct overlap of block joins to keep it stable if you just hit it with the chain saw to make a hole there is bound to funny little bits which will take so much bracing to keep them in place that I cannot see how it will be any quicker than erecting it the way it was designed to be done

one large house sub divided is not same as building a pair of houses as semis detached from start- 8m between them that's another house .LOL -make a row of good terraced ones . cost per house gets even better

fine then -make framed holes how you like ,not sure why you don,t want to do it the block maker suggests--your way there is no insulation just open ended blocks you are making wooden frames to close up--your choice

so you going to build a large semi then ?--that would be cheapest way to get 2 houses and sharing founds +services etc ,etc,

If you do it that way you will not have any lintel over window and door most icf require a bit of rebar above windows and door frame and some even spec vertical re-bar on either side of door opening bent to over lap the lintel rebar - -so no not a good idea really and you will be pouring more concrete than you need to and using more blocks

the top picture looks like the main panel it is a type of SIPs ,but has wooden ends on each panel and therefore a slight cold bridge with the wood a modern sips would just use insulated splines ,so full wrap of insulation in the wall. that is probably why they added extra outer layer of insulation ,so there was no cold bridge caused by big wooden studs. so to all intents it is a sips . but do not think that all closed panel TF builds are done like that cos they are not ,most will use foam that has been cut to size and put into frame ,then another skin added ,but they will not glued to foam ,so it needs structural stud work to get strength - ,both systems will work fine if built correctly and all panels sealed together at build stage , If I was going to use either system I would probably go for sips ,unless there was big price advantage for closed panel,cos you rely on the makers making insulation a tight fit in framing with closed panel - so maybe if not going SIPS I would go open frame kit and make it closed myself with attention to detail of the foam and air tightness both systems need VCL on inside and breathable on outside --so very similar

you call it salesmans patter,but If you do not believe what they tell you I can,t see a solution I have had promises of the agent being there for the pour from all systems i have looked at . -- not ready to build due to planning things etc . But i do know which ones I would trust having talked /grilled them all. where in the world is your site ? could be like me there will be no LOCAL tradesemen,depending what you call local ,that have done lots of ICF pours I doubt it is any worse for you to get a concrete pump than it is for me 100miles away £600 for 8hrs on site

the difference is in the name. the idea is the same to deliver fully insulated panel system to site SIPS (structural insulated panels system) are skins (osb usually) bonded to foam core, like an ice cream sandwhich , that gives the structural strength to just slot together and thats your house, closed panel --again its in the name - -TF assembly -- but not built on site completed panels ,built in factory . full of insulation skin on both inside and outside and delivered to the site ready to slot together- could even be as big as half a wall in one piece or small as 8x4 --so no crane is needed

already suggested that -

sounds not bad for them £1000 for a couple hours of welding .LOL. but thats maybe the going rate for on site welding there

If the welder on site is expensive bit bolt them on with contersunk screws from top side and nuts on underside . maybe it needs to be thicker plate -but bolting is easy enough . worst case scenario is hire a MAG drill for half a day

buffer tank would work for solar +ashp as well, when not doing dhw or when solar cannot get to temp of water already in system DHW not many days when you don,t get 30c in solar the combinations are endless with suitable control circuits

this is why I am looking for a very flexible controller as tried to do this with multiple analog thermostats and the hysteresis was always too great to be very good I had my solar controller down to +6c over tank temp and it turned on ,but again it was too simple to always doing what it should do I came to conclusion to get best you would need 3 tanks with different set temps +you had to be able to run solar input direct to floor through a heat exchanger for best use of solar energy SO yes probable cost outweigh benefits,but as houses need less and less energy there could be a time when it would work . this was the reason i was asking for total energy needed to heat a near passiv house per day - then maybe tank size could be calculated. and if a concrete unit built when house was and paart of floor inside building any heat losses would go into fabric of building 5" phonelic foam is what kingspan man told me was max it would sensible be to use --after that the extra savings in heat loss is so small it would never be viable .

was just writing what did which is similar--make them touch hard against floor.

if you do that it will still work yes but not as good , not sure skimping on floor where you are living all the time is a good idea cheap alternative ? stick tinfoil to underside of floor ? assuming you are sealing this off from below to keep any heat you add trapped in that space and hopefully most goes the way you want it too --up