scottishjohn

If the trip is on that side ,then they should have mentioned that it needs "x" amount of space around the unit when deciding on install location for getting to it in instructions . or better still have all bits you need to get at on one side of unit . I feel for you --just like stupid things they do on cars . EG range rover diesel --you have to remove body work to fit a new turbo on the v8.

so maybe a big thick slab is not the right answer / I retro fitted ufh into my chipboard floor close to 20 years ago and it does change temp very quickly even with it being tiled , cold to warm in under an hour and with in 20mins you can feel where the pipes are certainly it it were done from new with far superior insulation on the underside ,as I know mine is not perfect . maybe that a way to get round this problem ,yes the tiled floor does heat up form sun through windows ,but its only really the tiles that get warm and then release it to the air. so you just make heat when you need it ? Or maybe thin screed with pipe init so its not a big --wait for it !! "thermal mass" LOL why would you need a big heat store if heating requirements are very low anyway and ASHP works very quickly anyway , yes you would need to run temp on ashp higher maybe 40c , but it won,t be on for long and if its not an open plan then room stat will shut it off where not needed. no more over heating from sun through windows maybe?

yes floating stairs --and they are going have kids?? our BC would have a heart attack if he saw that

that really is a petrol head .LOL a wee 4stroke model aero engine is what you need .lol

you start off by saying you have PP,but now want to change it so the answer to your question about architect is keep him on side to make the alterations to planning you require as he will know better than you ,or should what they will allow . and until all this is sorted you will need architect and maybe a structural engineer at some point,depending on changes you wish to make . your architect will be the man to ask about planning the trades and in what order ,he might even know of local good trades

Hi, yes i looked last night to see If i could recognize the tin most say they are a blend of lacquer +preservative ,all except one which has a 7 year re treatment period ,which does not mention any lacquer in it I suspect it was that one , but maybe spec has changed since then ? anything that makes a lacquer coat ,could in time fade or go opaque ,then need sanduing off --the stuff we used you just put another coat on https://www.amazon.co.uk/XYLADECOR-Protection-Choose-Container-Colour/dp/B004XBO8JQ/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1?keywords=xyladecor%2Bdauerschutz&qid=1555054959&s=diy&sr=1-1-fkmrnull&th=1 but i would check with ako -nobel tech department . where did we buy it? --- come on now thats over 20 years ago ..LOL was no internet then . I remember it was over £20 a gallon then and a chalet took 3 tins to do watch out for the drips on the concrete . we were lucky all chalets were surrounded by grass --

Ok --then buy a truck load of preservative .lol years ago we had a chalet park which had sweedish wood chalets and they needed treating every 4 years the cladding was vertical and every 10ft or so on each wall was an expansion joint when they needed doing you could put your fingers in the gap,or close to it treat it and the gaps dissappeared the makes was xyladecor -- very slightly tinted in colour --and was like piss,didn,t seem to have any sort of lacquer in it --but it went on easy and just disappeared into the wood it did work very well and smelled a bit like parafin--definately not water based was not cheap-- but would use it again --chalets were 30 years old when we had it and wood looked like new people we sold it --did not do it so, they have had to re-clad it some years on --and the cheap skates have used horizontal pine ship lap instead of vertical t+g--already looks crap

all the above or why i don,t have a smart phone and use my old one only when i,m away from home area for phone calls --nothing else no doubt mi5 will check up on people like me at some point because we don,t use them .so must be up to no good

https://www.jameshardie.co.uk/live-colourfully/warm-colours/

I would check to see if there is a man made type that gives you the look you want --then up keep is zero

I said that last year LOL will made in china and scotland facotry will be shut

thats video says GLASS wool --not earth wool --so earth wool is really glass wool -

certainly trv valves have been virtually std on all systems for years now ,so you can have rooms at different temps --so yes they should be fitted anyway and a good starting point.. I certainly do not like the idea of copper pipes buried in concrete --they could corrode with the lime in the concrete +you will be loosing lots of heat into the concrete sounds like a real FIY job all round . time to call in a REAL heating engineer and get some on site advice and i,m pretty sure what will say

from what my sparkie told me --real electrical conduit --not plumbing stuff -is not pvc but some sort of modifed plastic it will shatter if you jump on it --so more like an abs blend --pvc usually just squishs when you stand on it .# worth checking with an electrical parts supplier though . my guess is the cheap brand is pvc --and more expensive is the right stuff

the old brown envelope always works LOL.

I also believe there is a different spec of wiring --eg insulation is different material for inserting directly into the foam ,but fitting in electrical conduit would also work how about this for ducting to distribution board https://www.electricalworld.com/en/gb/Stadium-1M-4x2-White-Flat-Rectangular-Flat-Ducting/m-3526.aspx?PartnerID=1&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=UnitedKingdom&gclid=CjwKCAjwqLblBRBYEiwAV3pCJmmisvX-D83TcQelQ5wjEUPAkvRpImkJXXdDkQNa-d_oTb9bs-XMHxoC0pEQAvD_BwE

a good lesson for all sort all specs before going for planning and don,t change things

Is this a common requirement with a new house now ? that far exceeds even scottish build regs does it not?

If there was any dust on sheets when you did it that could be the reason why it came unstuck ,also temp could be a factor . was this aluminium tape or plastic type that is coloured silver. the real aluminium tape sticks very well if surface is dust free downside to alli tape is it will not like movement as it does not stretch ,it breaks so a good quality plastic type should be good if you have any movement in things I used both and found the plastic type was better for my under joist " supa foil blanket " as it tended to be flexible and moved alli great if things were solid non of them were good to seal joints in polystyrene boards --fine if foil backed but not direct on to foam go for 52mm minimum -not the 38mm wide --

pipes go into slab from boiler ? so you have underfloor heating as well as radiators? and there will be 2 pipes going to dhw tank ? does the oil boiler heat the hot water -or is that just from the willis heater ? If you cannot work out the plumbing or draw a diagram of it no one on here will be able to help so you will need to get a plumber in to sort it out how old is the boiler --is it self condensing type?

I was talking to an insulation spray contractor today as i may be having a change of plan and re instating a 200 year old building anyway my question to him was is it water proof? only closed cell is fully water proof he said they use it on barn conversions for exactly that purpose- I am considering spraying whole inside of the building walls --then basically building a TF house inside a 30mm layer is enough for that job -- so seems maybe a good way for old buildings to stop moisture penetration through old outer walls . will be running it by my architect if I get it-- open cell will not make a total water proof barrier

are there any GOOD paints these days bring paints we had 20 years ago --that covered and dried and had a good lasting finish and don,t leave brush marks all modern one are rubbish that i have seen or used not sure how eco friendly it is having to repaint 3 times as often as old style paints. my dad was a master painter and decorator when he came back from the war ,being an engineer before the war --and he showed me how to use a brush = not asking for lead based paints --but certainly new types are rubbish , maybe why very few full gloss finishs used these days on doors etc

to make it better you need a bit of a plumbing alteration so you can have hot water +heating under separate control from the boiler . make a drawing the system and post it up and I,m sure NICK --will tell you want you need to change

and? just a different way to do same job. + he can,t find a uk supplier for the polar and asked for compact alternatives --but still no mvhr like genex so thats why I posted what i did his choice --dont, think he wants to get into the tecchie bits -just looking for a compact system no need to make this into a big deal

correct and that is what the polar video showed video showed ufh +dhw --no mvhr he was confusing the polar system with the genvex system i watched it twice and nothing about mvhr