scottishjohn

that could work if you put in the rebar where the lintels would be and around where the door frames would be ,but would be waste of concrete and icf forms +you would not have insulation all around the concrete after you cut the holes . just make very stong "bucks " as the yanks call them --linings to all openings in wood and cross braced, most SE,s will want some rebar around big load areas to spread the load around the "holes" and to stop possible cracks "seems like a long for a short cut"

28days is what they normally reckon for concrete to get to most of its hardness,then its to full strength in about 20-30 years

at least you it hasn,t got a hole in the bottom of it

suspect you are right ,due to the signs at the joint where they may used a grinder to finish them off at that price i would expect bits to be tig welded together anyway and nice fillet showing

maybe a good post on facebook with pictures might get some action from them you could reply saying how un happy you are are going to post pictures --before you actually do it certainly people need to know these mega priced doors are shite

ask them what you should be doing --if they want to play that card ,then where was the instructions on how to maintain these doors,considering they are more expensive than a lot of cars ,which have a documented service schedule I used have same problem with chinese ex manifolds ,supposedly 316s/s - but they not only blued but in 6 months turned brown the manifolds and ex systems i had made by BTB still sell s/hand 10-15years at a premium later as they still have no major signs of corrosion on them even now when isee them advertisedo neabay etc the car has rotted away ,but exsystme is still there .LOL to be fair my fancy s/c ex system solld for £780 +£360 for a maniflold in 2001. and i only stopped getting them made in batchs of ten when the price went over £1000 for a system . BTB now only do very exotic f1 and special systems and last price i got for manifolds in 2010 was £750 each to me-- kind of killed the market for saxo /106 customers the point is there are lots of dif spec s/s that are classed as 316 etc

I hope to be able to show you at some point the thing i.m going for is not on open sale at this time and if it were i am pretty sure i would be blown out the water by some one with shed loads of money . so we have to try to go slowly

about as much as a dose of the clap but you can get rid of the clap .LOL

and here its only at certain times on 2 days a week as well 1400-1600 hours tuesdays and fridays ithink

that brings in something that applies in scotland ,if you rebuilding a house -you can move the footprint to anywhere within the curtlidge of the plot , but only if its done in the planning stage so to move it you need to go back to planning one here did that and the bc man spotted it when founds were down --made them move it ,so new founds

my thoughts would be thats chinese grade 316 - -not real marine grade(304) ,which is the best type for corrosion ressitance or it was covered in a sticky protective layer that left some glue behind try cleaning with a solvent --if it goes thats your answer --remains of a protective film of some sort worth a a try ? don,t think it will be as its looks worst where the tube has been radially cut to fit other bit what do you do --clean them then clear lacquer? how long was the warranty on the doors?

slight sag is what they do usually , not stretched tight

that was when you had drafty attic spaces -and the gaps were to allow the WET sarking boards to expand -the drafty attics were your ventilation void up to the ridge vents and there was no membrane of any type just plenty of tile overlap and not low an angle on roof so that kind of goes against any modern thinking

I suppose if you have a live in roof space ,then I can see you might put VCL/air tightness barrier under sarking and then breathable membrane above it ? I just cannot see any good reason for allowing sarking to get wet /damp or have the possibility of the membrane flapping and over time failing because its moving about with high winds seen some sips roofs that use full stick on membranes as well, fine provided you definately will never get any moisture on inside which will start rot over time

thats how i see it. and i dont think it matters what type of roof finish you have ,that where you stop the water,before it gets to sarking put an extra one if you like between vertical batons and counter batons ,if you like --seen that done

thats an "English type roof ", older houses built there had the tar paper done like that or even no tar paper at all just slates/tiles into a cold roof void certainly all SIPS roofs are done the other way membrane then counter batons to give the vented area ,but to the outside of the membrane membrane goes direct to sips the house i have now built in 70.s has-plywood sheathing ,then tar paper ,then batons and tiles .

that seems wrong to me water proof/ breathable membrane is last thing before tile batons surely?

If it works out ,hen I can give you details , you will understand why i want that size supply and yes 3 phase was always the plan i tried to talk to people regarding a supply this morning ,but they need too much info at this time ,so we will wait till deal is done and work on 40k as cost for the time being . I will have a 40ft high X 70m long banking that faces s/w for PV if it all works out . still needs to drop in price first I think even at that going off grid don,t work out cheaper and a turbine will cost same anyway ,and take close to 20 years to pay back --if it don,t break down very often no hydro possible unfortunately.that would have been first choice

the closest pole is a 3 phase one and to future proof the site ,as pv will be on the list at some stage , ,and its a big site +house,so large PV array is easily doable architect is saying, as a guesstimate, at this stage he would specify a 200amp supply . but yes maybe worth a "secret service " enquiry at this point to dno about costing and sizes needed

Ok trying to work out cheapest way to run 500 metres of supply to plot I have not asked supplier yet for a quote but I have been told its 10k a pole-- as i have not got site tied up yet do not want to make an official requests so looking at big swa now all the cable claculators i look at give me the size --eg 300mmsq for 415v @200 amps @500 metres for the cable ,but when i go look at cables they don,t list them that way but at as conductor dia so when i do the calc to get surface area it don,t match up correctly do they add ALL the conductors together to get the surface area ,and why not just put booth measurements on the cable spec?eg 75mm dia (4 core) =370mm2,which was the closest way i could get them to match ,no allowing for losses in cable I,m even more confused as a sparkie said he worked it for me and the cable would be 40k i did the costing numbers using a 95mm swa --biggest i could find and it came out at 14k I am obviously missing a bit of definitive info on how the equate conductor dia to the mm2 it says in the calculators

I would wait a bit -the marks are where pb joints are --so are you sure the skimming is secure+dry? one hit job?--paint it when you sure the PB is fully dry,right through and secure

terminolgy a dry mix to me ,was just the sand with what ever moisture it has +cement for laying slabs or paviors -tumble in mixer and lay pavoirs . water will not drain through once its set ,so not suitable for some places -need proper edge drains leave 24 hrs --its gone hard and don,t need it that thick if its a good base your laying on ,I had driven 20 t flat bed over it more than once never moved and no weeds -bit of moss ,but never weeds ,

it will be just a crust -by time you dig into it it will be damp , always is

from my experience using it for bedding pavoirs it goes off pretty quick the nature of cement pulls the moisture out of the the sand you mix it with + ground surrounding it , so next day its not like sand anymore only worry would it will not flow like wet cement ,so any voids ,especially under tank will not self compact like wet stuff and whats to stop you giving it a hand when you have finished by wetting it down from the top a bit if its a large amount? sure someone may give you a more technical view on it

the whole ramp subject is load of crap anyway what do they say you have to do if you are in flood zone? common sense says you build your house out of of the ground above flooding level and major flood areas any new houses the garages should be below house ,so that is the only thing to suffer .you might get a garage you can fit a car in then as well-- I also object strongly to government paying for flood damage to private houses --it was the owners choice not to insure it. I object to having my premium loaded to pay for others flood damage -i would happily take a lower premium if they dropped the flooding clause I live on a hill ,same goes subsidence +earth quake--house is built on granite rock I know they will say its a very small part of the premium for those things, burgulary is another one --it is not loaded anything like enough for the bad areas +other pay well over .any break in makes the papers here --not been any for a very long time,but they are quick enough to load you if you say you go on extended holidays a lot so it should be easy to give me a reduction --but they are quick enough to load a premium if you are in a flood area the presumption must be that everyone is going to be in a wheel chair . the common sense approach would be that private housing cannot get a grant for a ramp under any circumstances .. but cost of a ramp ,if the council has to provide one is a charge back on sale of the property when they die or sell on . not make all houses have stupid ramps or be so low to the ground as they do now..