Mr Punter

Make sure you have a starting point for negotiation, such as a request for the supplier to fully refund you and (if you want to try it on a little) additional damages for delays and project prolongation. Stick to your original claim and then wait for the other side make a counter offer. Don't start with offering to re-purchase at cost, or you will have nowhere to go. The mediator does not look at the merits of the case or report to the court if mediation is not successful.

I like the base of the stack radius bend supported on the foundation on mortar / concrete. You can support the pipework by suspending from the beam and block, but I would want to see stainless banding for this https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Construction+Materials/d210/Builders+Metalwork/sd2797/Stainless+Steel+Banding/p48657. 6m max for pipework because plastic expands / contracts and 10m is impractical.

We did seven townhouses, all a bit different. The test guy picked one (end terrace) and tested it. It passed easily (3.74 against 5.00 required) but I was quite surprised when he did not test the others. Fee was £690 and the guy was on site for about 2 hours. I imagine they just extrapolated the results over the remaining, which all got a slightly worse score.

I have not had any issues with this. Is it Permitted Development for Office to Residential where you have prior approval? If so, send a copy of the Prior Approval to the Valuation Office and request that the building is removed from the rating list.

The 150 DPC rule is to help prevent the bottom of the wall becoming saturated from rain splashing up. If it is only a small section and it is not facing the prevailing wind you should be OK. Sometimes you can just have shingle up to the wall to reduce spashing

OK @epsilonGreedy I hope we may have persuaded you to look at timber frame again. Have you considered whether a passive slab foundation may work on your site? Better insulation, less muckaway, no deep trenches, no sub floor ventilation and a clean level work area early on.

Hi @Tosh Hello and welcome. Everyone here is keen on photos, so don't be shy with them. This sounds like an interesting scheme. There are lots of members who will happily give valuable advice - just ask away. Some are a bit nerdy but don't let that bother you.

@epsilonGreedyHaving read a number of your posts I think you should look again at timber frame. It will mean more likelihood of weathertight by Xmas and you can build the brick skin at your leisure.

Hello and welcome! I think you will need proper joints such as mortice and tenon or timber connectors. The surrounding joists may need doubling up as well.

The Aga will make it sweltering.

If you need a warranty, get it sorted now. They like to inspect foundation trenches. Xmas in the dry is admirable but ambitious. Don't kill yourself over a self-imposed deadline. Have you got someone to help? Setting out, concreting, drainage and ducting is far easier with two people, especially if one of you has done it before.

More likely the battens or rafters have shrunk or twisted or a fixing or slate is broken. When you buy your slate, make sure that they are consistent thickness and straight grain. Get a stack of about 12 and see if they wobble when you press the corners.

No real edges as this is part of a terrace. I will try the sticking down of battens. Thanks @Ferdinand

Good plan. The only issue may be that the top of the roof has been painted with some sort of black stuff, but it feels dry to the touch. I will give this a go once I have sorted out what kit to get. I have a few tubes of CT1 so I will try this.

I have a single en-bloc garage with no electric. It has a corrugated cement asbestos roof. I will use it to store some tools and materials. Any ideas / recommends on LED solar lighting? I would prefer a single strip / fitting and it need to be fairly bright so I am not fumbling around. Any ideas for mounting the panel to the roof? Do I need to drill through? It will probably get used for max 60 mins in a day. I am not sure whether to get a purpose made kit or separate components.

Could you not just stuff in some mineral wool along the eaves and maybe hold it there with a strip of breather paper stapled in?

Your ASHP with UFH will heat the house easily. With lots of trees around it may at times be difficult to get rid of combustion gasses with the multi fuel heaters. You will probably need to create a fairly big inlet through the wall or floor as well.

Good advice as per from @JSHarris. I can understand - if you are having piled foundations - that the GSHP seems attractive but there are several drawbacks and the ASHP systems seem to be where the investment is. Mitsubishi and Viessman both have good reputations but there may well be more suitable manufacturers. Why are you having multi fuel in 2 rooms? If this is new build it won't be needed / wanted.

Agreed as I have done this with a pump station. The ground water pressure began to crush the chamber. It was too late to dig out, so we just concrete inside the bottom 2 feet of the chamber. Luckily the chamber was oversized and it seems to have stopped deforming but in hindsight it would have been better to concrete base, install chamber, fill with water and concrete surround.

I think it is just Thermalite type blocks and you may need special ties as if they are standard size they don't course with standard size bricks. The first course needs to be spot on - laid in mortar. The rest looks easy (at least it does on YouTube). I guess the coursing thing may be an issue with openings as well but the blocks are easy to cut.

I think you need: Rotating laser level - ground works, foundations, concrete, brickwork Laser line level - tiling, kitchen fitting, flooring Long spirit level - wall and floor level and plumb Short spirit level - sockets and switches

I am sure the plasterer will feel that is helpful. Offer to make him tea as well.

There is a presumption against building in the countryside, and for good reason. I do not think you will be granted consent to live in a mobile home. If you choose to ignore or try and get around the planning laws in some way is another matter.

The garden look fantastic. I am a developer so probably look at things more from the view of gaining most value, but if all the surrounding houses are on similar plots, gardening is your thing and your current house can't be made suitable the new build sounds good. Just make sure you spend time getting the design exactly right for you before you submit your plans.

Is there any way you could build a new house elsewhere on the site and retain the existing one?