Mr Punter

Agreed and you can do this by having the blocks widthways (215mm) every row or every other row. They also sometimes specify double beams. The beam supplier should be able to give you a design.

They often use sole plate anchors which are nailed to the inside of the sole plate and then shot fired into the slab. https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Sole-Plate-Anchor-50mm-SPA50/p/214975

I have voted but the order of the names is different to the order of the images, which could be confusing.

Perhaps you should look at what sale values are in the area and show the plans to some estate agents. If it is worth less than £500,000 you may need to rethink.

A couple of points: I have noticed that grass above a French drain can die off in summer. I have also noticed that Terram membrane is not very free draining and the pores can get clogged with silty clay, making it behave more like polythene.

The cause of the mildew and mould is warmer moist air condensing on the cold surfaces quicker than it evaporates. You may find a dehumidifier could help.

I have done a couple like this using 150mm galv metal tube which looks the same diameter as your 2 photos. Mine have a very slight fall to outside. 100mm diameter is too small imo. If you can, an external fan really cuts down on noise.

Corrosion of the wires would be an issue. Also it is very difficult to achieve a concrete mix and pour and compact to a a satisfactory standard in something so slender. Your bamboo would probably be a better bet with superb strength to weight ratio and good for the member sizes you propose.

I have used acoustic overlay boards called ScreedBoard 28 for a flat conversion. They were a cement type t&g with a soft backing. Worked very well but were very expensive.

Is this it from the other angle?

Just get a quote from Compare the Markets or whoever and check the policy wording. I am confident that you will be covered but it is worth checking.

I have LED strips and they run off a rechargeable Makita 18V battery stepped down to 12V via a buck converter. Lovely and bright.

I once had a firm apply levelling compound on a concrete floor before we got the tilers in and the floor ended up less level after the compound was applied!

I think it may be at worktop height.

Where we are contractors feel entitled to fill your £300 skip with old tools, food, crap from other jobs. I hate them all!!!

6mm is not a lot and I think you will be fine. The castellated panels should take this up. How thick is the screed?

Softer - the mortar should be softer than the brick - more environmentally friendly, better colour / weathers better, traditional / heritage, possibility of reusing bricks. Makes the mix workable. You could use 1:2:9 cement:lime:sand.

The new 30m2 extension will probably have a peak load of less than 1.5kW so unless the boiler is currently struggling it should be fine.

I think these would be fine for a garden wall. Give them a proper clean and encourage whoever is laying them to choose the best side. Use a lime mortar.

It is not acceptable. He may have some defence if the tiles are banana like, as I understand is quite common with the planks and it would also explain why they have been laid with a very small bond. Take 2 tiles and place them back-to-back, then face-to-face to see how flat they are.

Groceries up, bins down. Also I use it for tools and materials if I am working on upper floors. It is surprising how much stuff you need even when doing a fairly simple job.

For cold drinking water I prefer straight from the mains or chilled. No filtering or softening. I understand that drinking hard water can prevent hardening of the arteries.

You can easily record the parties, the loan amount and the terms (repayment date etc) in writing and both sign as a DIY agreement although I would not do this for a very large sum. You need to consider what happens should one party renege, die, divorce, go bankrupt, become mentally ill etc. I think the planning consent / plot subdivision / whole property bit makes it a lot more complicated and if you want this included, get it drawn up by a lawyer.

1. My cladding will be vented, with an insect mesh at the bottom, but doe's it also need to be vented at the top ? Yes 2. What about around any windows ? Do i need to close off the gap formed by the battens on which the cladding is hung, for fire etc . Battens all round windows to close the cavity but leave the vertical battens for the render board short at the top and the bottom so the air can flow round the window 3. Would you run strips of DPM down the battens before hanging the cladding ? It will not hurt. Staple it on. 4. As the cladding is rot proof, would it not be ok to just to have the vent at the bottom edge, to allow for any condensation formed to get out ? Top and bottom. 5. The battens would be treated, so would the DPM strips be considered over the top ? Not that hard to do so you may as well.

There is no point in having a party wall award if you own both properties. If you wanted to you could add rights and easements when you sell part. Party Wall agreement involves the owner wanting to do work (Building Owner) giving notice to the affected neighbours (Adjoining Owner) of the work they intend to carry out and which bits of the Party Wall Act will apply. This can just be agreed by the Adjoining Owner. If not agreed it is deemed in dispute and one or more surveyors - paid by the Building Owner, will draw up an award stating how the work will be carried out, access for works and the existing condition of the AO building. The Award does not go with the land reg - it is between the 2 parties only.