Mr Punter

Why not insulate the floor with some polystyrene? It will make the rest of the room much warmer and dryer. We have come a fair way since the house was built.

I would go with barb wire or stock fence and round wooden posts, 6m setback maybe with some rural mix hedgerow. The name of the game is to get consent and get the house built.

Best to use the same batten where the boards join.

Kerb - upstand. Not curb - restriction. I think I must have come over all American.

No issues doing this in 110mm. With bathrooms, you could bring up a stub stack with a dirgo instead of lots of separate connections. If possible I prefer to have the below ground outside the footprint so you could look at having a run on the right for the future bathroom and coming across the front to the main run.

That is how I refer to plumbers collectively too!

I would reduce the size of the rooflight as you will end up with lots of unwanted solar gain at the top of the house. I have had a Velux with a curb electrically operated in a stairwell and that worked well. You do not need to go outside to clean them as they flip round to give you access internally. They do electric blinds and external shutters as well. I think most of their electric stuff can be solar powered if you want to retrofit the functionality but have no run the power. Velux also do a flat roof rooflight without a curb but they don't seem quite as good.

The mounting plate for the smoke alarm is still fixed to the ceiling. The crack near the door looks like it has been there for years and is harmless. The bay is not structural.

As others have said, you probably will not need a Party Wall award and the fees and time that would cost. A couple of trial holes down to the base of their foundations would be all your engineer and Building Control would need to establish that foundations at the same depth would be structurally acceptable. Regarding the access for inspection, not really an issue and this could be carried out at ground level or a small scaffold tower could be erected. As long as they have access it is up to them how to do the inspection.

Your instinct is probably correct. Wall tiling is always done after the shower tray is installed. You could consider shower panels instead of tiles. No grout joins to go wrong and they have watertight profiles at the bottom and the inner corners. Please make sure your new tray is non-slip.

I have not been able to find 2400 x 600 TG4 ply or OSB thicker than 18mm. I was hoping to get it at 22mm.

You need the battens as you have to incorporate a drained and ventilated cavity.

These are often factory finished with paint apart from the ones that are concealed.

Mainly plan A for me but it is a personal choice. Don't underestimate the space the MVHR can take up. You need to be able to access quite a large space on some to remove filters, heat exchanger etc. Give that they can make a bit of noise it may be better in the landing. UFH manifold can be quite warm, depending on setup and pipe runs. I don't like pocket doors much. They are fiddly to operate and fit and you are very limited to handles etc. Will you normally leave them open? I can imagine getting up to use the bathroom and running in to one of those. Another one against the island bed. May be better against the top wall. There would be plenty of space left that you could have a sitting area for coffee & papers or pre dinner drinks.

Wow. Eight months for some minor amendments. A badly broken system.

Because it is structural you will need calcs for these. Best to contact a truss designer / manufacturer. 8m span is large. There are lots of online design / quote sites so you will get some idea of what you can do and what it might cost.

With our network (UKPN) you would just raise a new job for single phase and ignore the 3 phase quote. They cannot cope with amending the quote and prefer to start again.

Just to add to this: You would normally have an access for rodding / jetting at the base of the stack, in the room above the games room. Having it on / near the horizontal run is not practical. In the event of a blockage I would not want to unscrew that! The long radius bend may be able to be moved up a bit into the floor zone to save some ceiling height. I don't know why there is a hydrophilic strip where the pipe goes through the ground floor. I assume the IC is deep as it has to take drainage from elsewhere? Try to keep them as shallow as possible.

If W18 and W19 are each less than 1m2 and at least 4m apart they will be acceptable. If the floor above W16 is a compartment floor and less than 1m2 it will be OK. If not, you may need special fire resistant glass (expensive).

I have V & B toilets (not rimless) with Grohe frames and cisterns. All fine.

What the appeal decision gives are the reasons for refusal. The inspector will often not take account of a number of reasons for the original refusal by the LPA, so this can give you a narrower target for a new submission. From what you have reported you will need to focus on the gaps between houses. Did your proposal close up the gap more than your neighbours? If you give a link to the planning application and appeal we can have a look.

You could build the columns out with timber and clad them in the same horizontal stuff as the house, using the metal corner trims. I have done this on some details and with the trims it looks OK.

Are you building up to a Poldark moment @Onoff?

Agreed. Typically shown as dashed line on plan, with member key speccing section size plus detail drawings of padstones, foundations and connections. Length and height not specified but can be worked out from architect drawings.

As a builder / developer I get a contractors all risks policy and this covers everything. It seems to cost about £1 in £1,000 of completed cost per year, so if we do £4M GDV we are up for £4k premium. All subbies need their own policies too.