Mr Punter
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Everything posted by Mr Punter
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Glory work at last! Not a favourite job for anyone.
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Inflation. Wrong time to start a self build?
Mr Punter replied to flanagaj's topic in Building Materials
Until September 2022. You did ask for a guess. -
It you post up a detail someone could help. If the soffit is vented, you could use this. You will either take your render up to meet the soffit or render first, then butt the soffit up to this.
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Slump for a 300mm concrete slab with two layers of mesh
Mr Punter replied to Moonshine's topic in Foundations
I don't think I have seen a concrete conveyor. Does it come with the concrete truck? Any pics? -
Dig or drill a hole. If you are doing a basement you should do a proper geotechnical survey to establish soil type, strength cohesiveness and water table.
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A few points: At least part of the decking is more than 30cm above the original ground level so planning consent should be required. Fire risk is not an issue here as the structure is less than 15 square metres. The roof is discharging rainwater onto the fence and may be overhanging.
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If you focus on insulation and draft exclusion, your space heating needs can be significantly reduced. Maybe stick in some electric panel heaters for a quick fix. If you can stretch to an ASHP it may be a good bet, especially with underfloor heating.
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Can I start building while waiting for PD certificate
Mr Punter replied to RGriff's topic in Planning Permission
I am not sure this will impact on the dormer and roof proposals? I appreciate it would for a further ground floor extension, which would be measured from the 1948 building. -
Can I start building while waiting for PD certificate
Mr Punter replied to RGriff's topic in Planning Permission
Yes but if your Council do not consider it to be PD you may have to undo the work. -
You need to contact your Distribution Network Operator. This will very depending on where you are. Ours us UK Power Networks.
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I have had some that are out by 20mm. Solid packing under studs and grout from a mortar gun between packers. Make sure the packing is either all under or all on top the DPC. It is a pain if it is mixed. The structural grout goes off surprisingly well, even if it is a bit messy.
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1870 Victorian Rear extension and full renovation DIY
Mr Punter replied to TomK's topic in Introduce Yourself
Hi Tom and welcome. From the elevations it looks like you share 2nd floor windows with your neighbour? I like the loo / utility. I have done similar in the past and it works very well. I would be tempted to have an insulated solid floor throughout the ground floor, and masonry walls for the extension. -
Effective ventilation wanted please in 1970s bungalow
Mr Punter replied to jimbobamboom's topic in Ventilation
A wall vent may be OK. You can get them with an adjustable internal grille. Drill a 4" hole, line with plastic duct, fit an adjustable internal grille and an external terminal. High up works OK but make sure you are clear of the window lintel.- 9 replies
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Core filling retaining wall - pour heights
Mr Punter replied to Moonshine's topic in General Structural Issues
You will need to compact the concrete with a poker which is where it can go wrong. 900mm would be the max I would go to but if 450mm is practical then even better. Leave for a few days for the mortar to go off before pouring. -
I think it is the metal leg that is the issue. You could put a small piece of cardboard under each foot. The tile is best supported on a full bed of adhesive.
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How to raise old slab 40mm over 40sqm to match extension height
Mr Punter replied to connick159's topic in General Flooring
Any chance of breaking out the old floor so you can get it properly level and insulated? -
Yes, take at brick out. Could you also insulate the pipes? Wot Nick said
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You can do them in shorter lengths and pack under the bits that need to be fatter with some timber.
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Windows not quite as expected - distortion issue
Mr Punter replied to Adsibob's topic in Windows & Glazing
I once had some very big 2g units and the panes had touched in the middle so some of the coating came off. Had them replaced. Get the rep out to look. They will try to swerve but you will get a feel for whether it is acceptable. -
Partitions: Timbers studs Vs Metal C studs
Mr Punter replied to MortarThePoint's topic in General Construction Issues
Do you charge a higher rate to fit the Habito? We used Fermacell on some flats a while ago. Never again, but the Habito looks good. -
https://www.screwfix.com/p/turbocoach-coach-screws-yellow-zinc-plated-8-x-120mm-50-pack/52740 You can sink the heads in 10mm with a spade bit. 3 ply 45mm = 135mm. Your 90mm will not have any embedment in the 3rd timber.
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I don't think there is much in it. Use whatever you have. I understand the soil pipe may be more UV resistant than the below ground.
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Partitions: Timbers studs Vs Metal C studs
Mr Punter replied to MortarThePoint's topic in General Construction Issues
The metal I studs are a fair bit stronger than the C studs, if you want a freestanding wall. We used it to line a tanked basement. The metal frame guys can put the stuff up very quickly. I / we can't. -
Pumped waste design for kitchen sink and dishwasher waste
Mr Punter replied to Adsibob's topic in Waste & Sewerage
I don't think the noise of the water will be an issue at all. More likely to hear the water as is goes down the sink waste, not once it is in the pipe and running steadily. -
Pumped waste design for kitchen sink and dishwasher waste
Mr Punter replied to Adsibob's topic in Waste & Sewerage
I would run the waste right to the end of the kitchen units in 40mm. It looks like there is a void or some insulation behind anyway. Run it to a decent fall. I don't know where the drain is outside in relation to your plan. 23m is not a particularly long run. if you know the invert of the drain we can let you know if you can let gravity be your friend.
