Mr Punter

I don't think it will do any harm. There is a fair gap between the insulation and blockwork. Can you close this off at the top?

I have a couple of the Evolution sliding mitre saws. Not very accurate and wins no respect amongst other site workers but I have used it on ali guttering, steel trims, plastic and joists. You won't catch them tackling that with their Festool.

I have a couple of these. The income is not great but the tenants take care of most maintenance and decoration. We just service the boiler and do any external repairs should they be needed. Also the rents are linked to RPI +2%, so that will be about 9.5% this year.

I suggest you pay no more fees to anyone. You are a private householder who has legitimately obtained consent to alter your property. If the neighbour wants to waste their time and money with this, let them. I would give less than 50% chance he even pays this:

I would not bother doing anything about this. It is between Mr Evil and the Council. You won't be liable for costs. Don't waste your money on fees.

I just have a few small points: I am not sure about the stairs rising out of the kitchen/living area. Even if this is acceptable from a safety fire perspective it is not ideal where the only option in the event of a fire is to jump out of a first floor window. The curved stair and enclosure looks nice on plan but you would need a specially fabricated staircase. It is also very difficult to build a curved wall as shown. I often see architects do this and it normally gets scrubbed. Lose the chimneys. They will cost a fortune and will never be used. With the barrel roof it may work well if you wrap the walls in the same material down to the ground, leaving just the gables in the brick / render. The pantry bit messes this all up and maybe better incorporated into the main plan rather than a wedge scabbed on the end. It looks like there is a big tree in the garage. There are lots of threads on here regarding trees. Once you have planning, their protection can be conditioned so it is sometimes more pragmatic to clear any that prevent viable development before consulting the planners.

I thought these were always outsourced nowadays.

+1

I really do not think it would be sensible to initiate a legal dispute, especially with a party that is hard to trace. The OP wants to be able to sell the place with no issues. Presently there are none and the water supply is all fine.

When you sell your solicitor should make it clear that the buyer should rely on their own enquiries.

I have a bit of flat roofing to get done. Do you have a link to the insulation and / or a detail drawing of the build-up?

I think it is time to hit the phone and get another couple of quotes. Do you think it would help if you got a general contractor in to do the insulation and upstands so the flat roofer just turns up for the glory work? It is a shame you were not allowed a pitched roof. I guess you costed firrings v tapered insulation?

Providing quotes costs money. Suppliers get their money from customers. What ain't you getting?

Looking at this again, you may need a SE to design as you need to factor in snow loads etc. Should not cost much.

Agree with @SuperPav. Unless you have cut a very deep birdsmouth around the wall plate the 1200mm overhang should be OK.

This is not a Structural Warranty but a Professional Consultants Certificate. The buyer has the ability to claim on the provider's professional indemnity insurance. The Structural Warranties have their own insurance policy. I don't think either are worth much other than to be able to obtain finance and sell on.

It is worth bearing in mind that producing a quote is not free. If a quote costs £250 to produce and 1 in 4 lead to an order, they need to charge an extra £1,000 to cover this. Once they get the order there are load of preliminary and management costs. Risk assessments, method statements, insurances, training, office admin, accounts, QS all add up. The 3 quotes method is a reasonable way judge what the job is worth. I only push for a breakdown for larger jobs where I need to work out stage payments and it would be broken down by task or milestone rather than labour and materials.

I think as a finished oak door there is not much hope for it. At the risk of offending @willbish, would there be any mileage in perhaps filling, sanding and painting part of the door and frame? I would still expect a refund of at least 75%. The joiner could either accept this or arrange a full refund or replacement, which, on the basis of the door you have, would probably not be up to standard either.

It will be fine once it is plastered. Your plasterer can paint on some SBR if they think it will help.

If you think you could gain by the deal, just suck it up and meet with them.

The thermal break only works when it is in line with the floor insulation. Anything below will be subject to heat loss sideways into the slab or sub base. @matthyde83 has a 200mm insulation layer so will be OK but would be better with Marmox.

The Marmox is far better at insulating and eliminating the cold bridge.

You can get Superlux and Glasroc fire boards in 6mm.

I have been using BAL Micromax because I have a load left over.

I have used silicone between tiles on a kitchen wall and got a really good finish. Yours look doable. Don't trim the nozzle on the tube and keep it at 90 degrees. Remove surplus and finish with a Fugi tool.