Mike

Worth mentioning that they can include methane, which is explosive.

I remember trying to convince people that double glazing was worthwhile.

If you are laying tiles of traditional size and thickness, then you could. There are some on the floor above mine laid just like that - very wonky (it's a timber deck) but not overrun with cracks after nearly 200 years. Preferably you'd lay them over a sand bed laid on gravel or shingle - the traditional 'decoupling membrane' that's been used for centuries. Modern rigid construction methods & thin large format tiles would be two key factors. Modern decoupling membranes are the response.

1.28 is referring to the vertical stack, not the connection to the WC. The part between the WC and the stack is the 'branch connection'. So the rule at 1.15 applies and for an 80mm outlet toilet you either need a minimum 80mm or 75mm pipe. But, as Temp says, in practice you're limited by what's on the market. And I too would stick to 110mm - unblocking drains isn't my idea of fun.

Free of charge in Shelly's cloud, if you're not recording it locally, from where you can also download it as a CSV file.

They should. They still fail. We had it in the previous house. Was a pia to change it. A lifetime of '100,000 hours' is most likely referring to the 'catastrophic failure rate', often 10%, under which no more than 10% of the bulbs should fail within that 100,000 hours. But someone has to buy the ones that make up that 10%. Good advice to buy quality LEDs from a reputable company though.

If there are cracks, that's what I'd do. Look for one - such as Mapeguard UM 35, Ditra, Durabase CI++ - that can be used as both a decoupling membrane and as a crack-isolation membrane (suitable for bridging minor cracks in the subfloor that's otherwise sound). I'd also be installing expansion joints at doorways and the recommended intervals. As Jilly says, they don't have to be obvious.

Don't use it myself, but I'd take a look at the Shelly Plus 1PM (or the Shelly Pro 1PM DIN-rail version). PM = Power Metering. Once wired in you should be able to get the usage data via the app.

It sounds OK to me.

Yes - had this a a couple of years ago. The first metre was too solid and had to be dug by hand - after that it went well.

I've bought, but not yet installed, Cavius smoke & heat alarms (separate products). An optional hub can interface with their wireless range (including some of their other devices) and send alerts via their own app, by email, or via Google Assistant. Looks like there are further integrations to come - the Google Play store says that the latest version of the app includes "Integration preparations for opening to Third party APIs". Not that I'm planning to get the hub for now.

I've seen some pics on here before, so you're not the first, but too long ago to remember all the details. I have a feeling they were in a hallway though? I'm likely to fit a single strip as the main lighting in my galley kitchen later this year. Mainly on the grounds of practicality - there will be too many MVHR ducts and cable runs in the ceiling to fit decent downlighters, and I don't want anything projecting down to block the wall unit doors. Though I've not entirely ruled out a concealed strip. Add LED strip with a high CRI (Colour Rendering Index) to your list of requirements - that is, a CRI of at least 90.

That's an interesting approach. For heavy doors, it's the recommended method for the system I'm using (the French Siniat system). But different systems do have different recommendations, and UK & French recommendations diverge in places too. I'm adding it to provide an enhanced fixing for the door frame, though it would contribute to rigidity too. Over here there's no recommendation to use a timber insert at all (nor the rail, for lightweight domestic doors), but I'm not happy fixing a door frame only to metal, and the doors won't be lightweight.

I cut my own to size from a sheet of 15mm plywood - 2 layers screwed together to make 30mm. Then added a 70mm rail to the back of the stud to turn it into a box for additional strength. With the gap between the ply and the rail filled with some Ilbruck FM330 foam to dampen the acoustic transmission.

There are multiple installation, but Switzerland isn't that big - double the size of Wales / half the size of Scotland Warmer in summer, colder in winter: Climate comparison: Switzerland / United Kingdom (worlddata.info) More regional variation in Germany though.

With a budget of around 32K to play with, you could look at adding another 0 to that volume a going for an inter-seasonal store - that is, one you heat during the summer and draw on during the winter. They've been doing it on a small scale in Switzerland and Germany for a couple of decades - see the https://www.sonnenhaus-institut.de/ (in German). For example a 24,000 litre tank being installed here https://aktivsonnenhaus.de/veranstaltung/13-09-2016-spektakulaere-speichersetzung-in-90559-burgthann/ And someone here considering the idea of using a 20,000 litre milk tank as a thermal store https://www.earth.org.uk/milk-tanker-thermal-store.html

I've used Ilbruck FM330 flexible foam in similar situations.

.....fan the flames by supplying fresh oxygenated air in abundance! For preservation of the fabric of a dwelling, you'd discover the fire and close that compartment off as best as possible (close the doors) and get the hell out of there, and then raise the alarm. If the meter is outside then yank the fuse to the house to shut off the MVHR. MVHR would not evacuate smoke, no chance. You're reading too much into my reply. MVHR is more likely to help evacuate the smoke, rather than pump it around the house. Of course it's not to be relied on as an aid or a protection for the building. The amount of air in and smoke out is going to be minimal, so it will only have a small impact on 'fanning the flames' and smoke reduction, but of the two smoke is the biggest threat to life - 'overcome by gas or smoke” is the biggest cause of death in fires - 33% of deaths in financial year 2020 to 2021.

It would more likely do the opposite - continue to bring in fresh air and help evacuate the smoke. Not that I want to wait around and find out.

Not in a domestic build, no.

I'm not convinced that they're going to do much in a new build bungalow, unless you have some room that needs to be acoustically isolated - in which case it will need more than just flanking strips. It's certainly worth considering the structure of the partitions and internal doors though, to reduce transmission through them between rooms.

I wouldn't put lighting bollards directly along a driveway - sooner or later someone will knock one over. If you can run them a metre or so back from the drive, then maybe. If not, then I'd choose ground lights that are designed to be run over - preferably from a quality brand with a decent warranty, rather than a DIY chain.

I have a friend who installed a black kitchen tap maybe 6 or 7 years ago (Franke, from memory). The underlying metal is now showing through in a few places, mainly on the edges of the lever. Due to the contrast in colours it is pretty visible.

I think that's the case too. Maybe just work some strategically placed trees into the garden design.

If the driveway has adequate drainage on your property - enough to prevent water running onto the highway - then you don't need planning permission. See https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/7728/pavingfrontgardens.pdf 300m² is a fairly large area though, so if you're using soakaways they'd need to be adequately sized - for example designed to BRE digest 356. Or use a permeable surface.