Mike

Unless I've missed a change, the situation is that anyone can apply for planning on any land, whether they own it or not, no consent required. So yes.

Hardie say that Hardie® Backer must be tanked with a suitable waterproofing system prior to tiling, so yes, if it's going to get seriously wet. I'd guess that STS would say similar. Note that although the board may be unaffected by water, if it becomes permanently damp then the moisture may reach other materials behind / below it that may be less water-tolerant. Tanking systems usually provide recommendations on this. However if the polished concrete is the finish outside the tray area, there's probably not much you can do with that part other than screen it from the water. The two main types are liquid tanking and waterproof film. If everything is in concrete & masonry where movement isn't likely, any type from a reputable brand should be fine. It gets trickier if movement may occur. In my case I have UFCH so there's a perimeter expansion strip along the junction between the floor and the wall that could move a little. Schluter, have a detail for that - as may other waterproof film systems. No, I'm already installing 2 ceiling light circuits + an illuminated mirror, so an single illuminated niche wouldn't really be a worthwhile feature. Yes, with instructions and easy - create the correctly sized hole and screw it through the flanges to the studwork, with optional adhesive. No specific instructions for masonry, but I'd just fix it with adhesive. Schluter are certainly very fussy particular about what to use and how to do everything, but they generally have a good reputation. In principle you could mix and match, but it's probably not worth spending the time looking at what is and isn't compatible.

No, generally you adopt those that are necessary or beneficial depending on a variety of factors. In particular worth knowing about these: BBA certificates - optional, but the definitive guide to when and how a particular material or system should be used for it to perform as intended, and a step up from 'manufacturer's recommendations' as they're independently evaluated. If there's a problem later, deviations could provide grounds for legal action - for example by you against the installer, particularly if you had incorporated certificate compliance into your contracts. Originally set up by the Government, now non-profit but with Government links. NHBC - optional - provide an alternative to the Building Regs Approved Documents based on their experience, plus their consumer warranty. Their standards are a useful resource and normally easy to follow. Originally set up by the housebuilding industry and encouraged by Government, now independent of both. Passivhaus Institute - the optional gold standard for designing and producing a low energy building. Until they came along, deigning such buildings was pretty unscientific and the results variable. An independent institute founded after scientific research and experimentation that originated at Lund University. MCS - Required if you want the associated financial benefits. Government sponsored.

It has a 13mm flange that's been recessed to sit flush with the surface of the plasterboard. The tanking system will then run over the flange to make it watertight. In a solid wall you could chip back the plaster to recess it similarly, or you could form the tanking into the recess as long as it's properly lapped all round. In the past I've just created a recess, then rendered / boarded and tiled it. This time it will be sitting below a rain shower getting very wet, so needs to be full water proof and I chose pre-formed for ease. BTW, slope the tiles a little to avoid water pooling at the back.

This one - this is as far as it's got, but no problems so far.

OK, here's my attempt at a simple explanation: Temperature is a measure of the average speed of vibration (kinetic energy) of the atoms within a material. Heat is transferred by atoms / molecules bouncing off each other. However there is no guarantee that any one atom / molecule will encounter another - if it doesn't no heat will be transmitted between them. The amount of heat transmitted will depend on the density of the material (the denser it is, the more the atoms / molecules are packed together, so the higher the probability is that one atom / molecule will encounter another to bounce off) and the thickness (as thickness increases, the heat has to be transferred through an increasingly long chain of atom / molecule bounces). To turn that into numbers, if the probability of one atom bouncing off another is 90%, the probability of that second atom bouncing off a third is 90% of 90% = 81%, and the probability of the third bouncing off a fourth is 81% x 90% = 72.9%; as the number of bumps increases the heat transferred goes down.

Yes, this :) It's a rule of thumb. If you are in a town with many other buildings of similar height on all sides, the chances of yours being hit goes down.

Worth mentioning that in France, where lightning strikes are more common in some areas, there are also requirements and recommendations to fit a surge protector in the consumer unit. For single phase they take up 2 modules (see, for example Legrand 092766). They have a replaceable cartridge that shorts the live to earth if there's a major surge. In low risk zones (which would apply to the UK) a protector would be: Required if your home has a lightning conductor Recommended if your home is within 50m of a building that has a lightning conductor Recommended to evaluate the risk elsewhere on a case-by-case basis In the last case, risk factors include if you are supplied by overhead wires, have an alarm system, electric access controls, use electronic medical devices, use expensive electronic devices (e.g. computers, Hi-Fi, white goods), etc.

Actually, the closest higher point than my house is 47m away from my house. I guess I can barely scrape by with that. Note that it's a ball, not a straight line or a plane.

Direct Line had >200 claims for lightning damage in June 2016, 15 times higher than normal. So presumably around 13 in a normal June, for Direct Line. In 2016 Direct Line reportedly had 6.3% of the home insurance market. So, pro-rata, very roughly 240 home insurance claims nationally in a 'normal' June, and around 3,600 claims in June 2016.

Form memory, if you could roll an imaginary 50m radius ball above your home, and other structures or landscape features would prevent the ball from touching it, lightning protection isn't required. If the ball could touch it, it's recommended. From your description, it sounds like it would be advised.

But don't connect to an ASHP, as the temps required are not a good match. It may or may not be, depending on the heat output required. Which is why I said it might be possible.

I'd agree - there are independently certified MVHR units in the Passivhaus database that recover over 90%. Their testing regime is rigorous and often more reliable than manufacturer's figures (Heat Space & Light have an article explaining why these can be misleading). Although the Passivhaus 'Efficiency Ratio' is generally a better guide than the heat recover rate, as it also takes into account electricity consumption. This. There are even (rare) whole-house warm air heating systems, but they'd need separate ducting from the MVHR system to avoid the problem mentioned by @JohnMo. However, depending on the heat load, an MVHR-compatible scheme might be possible using in-duct post-heaters. Typically only 1 is used after the MVHR unit (or maybe one one per floor), but depending on the ducting scheme more could be used - even one before every ceiling outlet - provided the duct air stays below 50°C (from memory) to avoid the burning smell mentioned above. Zehnder produce a 4kW hydronic one (ref 472901857), for example, that could connect to wet central heating. Personally, I'd probably install UFCH instead.

Agreed, the one you've linked to isn't. If you stick with Soudal, you'd want this one - Soudafoam Gun Win. & Door SWS. which is not only air-tight, but flexes if the joint moves to maintain the seal. Personally I'd remove the foam and do it again.

It looks like they're installed through opposite externals walls? If so I'd be looking to change that, to have them both on the same elevation. Otherwise you effectively have a wind-tunnel, where the wind can create a substantial pressure differential between vents, making it difficult / impossible for the MVHR unit to properly control the airflow.

Yes, it can certainly be done, but you'll need a structural engineer / truss company for the design.

I normally align shower controls (and light switches) with the door handles.

For a single domestic house, I don't recall any restriction - so whenever you / your partner / your builder will let you. However you do have to start paying Council Tax from that date, and you may want to check your insurance policy.

Proctor Roofshield has a BBA Certificate and is advertised as such. That stands independently from any terms & conditions. The certificate states that the fabric meets BS EN 13859-1 : 2014 Class W1 (a 200mm static water column) - which is the top rating (Class W2 being somewhat less good). But that is a test of the fabric, not the nail holes, which you note are the points of leakage - so presumably the fabric itself is performing OK? If you really think not and the company aren't adequately cooperating, then I guess your options include getting a sample independently tested and/or or seeking advice from Trading Standards.

Take a look at the Zehnder ComfoCool, which can be bolted on to the MVHR unit.

It would be possible to put the loops in the floor and blank them off. But if you were to connect them, then the entire garage would have to meet normal Building Regs thermal insulation standards, including air pressure testing, to be legal. That would involve fitting a very expensive insulated and weather-sealed garage door. I wouldn't want to park a car on a 50mm screed over insulation. I'd want a minimum of 100mm reinforced concrete.

Not sure what @Thorfun used, but I've recently bought (not yet fitted) a mix of Faro Hyde and Fresh frameless, under the impression that the latter wasn't orientable. Turns out they are too, it's just not mentioned on the spec sheet. Both can be set, pre-plastering, for a 1 to 20mm plaster depth (though with different adjustment mechanisms). There are some visual & build differences, including: Fresh is a bit larger with a 90mm cut-out, comes with a GU10 bulb connector, a twist-off bulb retaining ring, and a max rating of '8W LED' (though the web page, only, says max 50W) Hyde is smaller but with a larger 104mm cut-out, comes without a bulb connector, has a pull-off bulb retaining ring, and a max rating of '8W LED' As they're going in distinct places I'll be keeping both, but otherwise I'd have standardised on the Fresh and sent back the Hyde. I'll be fitting them with Tridonic modules as suggested by @Carrerahill in this thread from a while back.

Yes, I have - it's the only solution that will filter out the urban pollution on the supply air too, as well as pushing the EPC rating up from D to mid-way up the C band (in France, so UK housing policy is off the hook this time), which is much more important over here than it is currently in the UK. The only outstanding decision is which way round to put the terminals.

No, it's a historic building so there's no possibility of adding external pipes, unfortunately. I'm stuck with what I've got!

I'm also a vinegar user. Just don't leave it on too long / frequently as it can eventually affect the chrome.