Jump to content

Bitpipe

Members
  • Posts

    4118
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    53

Everything posted by Bitpipe

  1. Thanks, BC work is scheduled and budgeted, just cant really get it done any quicker as it's dependent on other works. Only fly is that the BC approval starts the clock on the VAT reclaim and we have one last chunk of front landscaping that is not yet funded - I reckon I can get a contractor to do it VAT free on a supply and fit basis on the proof of new build (just like all the other work) but if I need to buy materials then I'll loose the VAT.
  2. Ecology mge 2 year anniversary is in end September so keen to remortgage onto a lower rate once the redemption period has ended. Wondering what the requirements are. We have a 10 year warranty in place and are almost but not quite BR signed off - have some ballustrade required around basement exterior stairwell which won't go in until mid late sept. Any other common issues to be aware of?
  3. We had the frame renderd back in Dec 15 / Jan 16 just after the frame was erected. System is 25mm battens onto the MBC exterior panel, 12.5mm Gtec Render board, 4mm Parex Maite undercoat with mesh reinforcement, 4mm Parex Maite second coat and 1mm Parex DPR topcoat. Application went well, they were very diligent, only working when the conditions were suitable and the finish looked superb when complete. They were back a few months ago to do the garage and some other areas originally inaccessible. However this last few weeks I've really noticed the outlines of the underlying boards, especially in direct sunlight and wondering why this is only now obvious and how to remedy. Want to get some wisdom here before engaging with the contractor (who I've always found fair to deal with). I'm wondering if it's just the accumulation of dust on the render or something more serious. Have to stress, there are no cracks or blown areas etc and the problem is consistent across the house.
  4. We bought one of these for the kids. http://www.makeymakey.com/ Using Scratch (a child friendly coding environment) we made a banana piano. should be easy enough to rig to the stair
  5. The Lusso stone one is 25mm thick, that one is 40mm - makes a difference if you're trying to get it flush with the floor.
  6. I used to do that, had a few bin loads rejected though when I got a bit over keen and it was obviously too heavy.
  7. Would love to know what they spend clearing up fly tipping of the same waste.
  8. I used DS extensively during the planning stages of our build - was an absolute life saver when interpreting the TF plans, basement drawings, planning internal layout etc.. I wasn't able to refresh the licence after the initial 6 months though so had to install it again on a different machine. Aside from that it's ace.
  9. If you're not a regular visitor, your local LA recycling centre (AKA 'The Tip') can be the most efficient way to dispose of unwanted materials. Ours is free to residents (you need ID) and will take wood, card, green waste, plasterboard, glass (bottles), books, batteries, paint, oil, rubble, metal, domestic electrics, white goods, etc, all in dedicated 40cu skips (the type you need steps alongside. They then have a few 'bulk waste' skips for anything else. Pretty much unlimited visits allowed - currently I'm there a couple of times a day as we clear the garden and dispose of leftover build material that I was hoarding. If you have a decent sized car (estate or trailer) then you're saving the cost of a skip - and they claim to recycle up to 80% of what they receive.
  10. My duct comes into the basement, completely underground from pole to house. On the advice of our local OR surveyor, we laid the ducting ourselves and pulled cable through to the master socket location and left a big coil at the foot of the pole (inc. a road crossing). OR were more than happy to make the connections either end. Cost about half as much as the OR quote.
  11. Another MBC house owner here, 4 stories (basement and room in roof) about 400m2. Coming up on 1 year of occupation. Summer has proved more challenging than winter in maintaining a comfortable environment. My tips, repeating some of the above: Don't spend the money on heating bedrooms upstairs, you will never use it - especially if you like a cool bedroom (as we do). Do have some kind of UFH (electric or wet) in bathrooms to take chill of tiles (due to conductivity, they will feel cooler underfoot). Minimise solar gain - consider external blinds / shading etc to reduce overheating. Keep windows closed and relevant shutters down during the day in summer, keeps warm air out of the house and prolongs utility of the cool air gained overnight. MVHR in summer bypass keeps air fresh. High level opening windows are great for stack ventilation in during summer - this has become our solution and is working well. We have two large east facing Velux integra (powered and remote controlled) which are closed during the day with blinds down. Once the sun has gone overhead, the blinds go up and the windows open to enable stack ventilation. In the evening we open the west sliders and east windows and get a nice cross draft through the living area. At night, we tilt open the bedroom windows and get a nice cool breeze.
  12. Our landscapers turned up today to start work - we moved in (from the caravan) end of last summer and it's taken a while to accumulate funds and get the right contractor in to start works. You're doing it the correct way, working from the back to the front - our guy is doing the following. Levelling the garden, removing existing vegetation etc. Laying the subsurface for patio - like you we're brining it flush to the FFL inside and will have 100mm french drain around the house and a slot drain between patio and sliding door. Paving will butt under the DPM and the bottom of the door threshold and we will probably mastic the joint to ensure nothing gets in. Patio will also fall away from the house. Only when the paving is complete, will he turf the rear as he wants to get the levels dead on. Will probably delay this step until September to ensure it doesn't get scorched.
  13. Many on here (including me) have done the demolish and build option.
  14. I find that a deadline sharpens the mind. Since we moved in last Sept, there's still been lots to do, with the usual DIY enabling before the trades come in. Cue weeks sailing past with nothing happening and then a mad panic to get the prep done and a feeling of satisfaction when it's achieved. That may explain why I've just done a weeks worth of work over one weekend in the garden, including dismantling a greenhouse ahead of landscapingstarting today,
  15. I'd explain the situation to Joe at MBC and get his guys to board everything up for you - may cost a few quid extra but they'll do a good job. You will also need some task lighting inside if you're trying to get any follow on work done.
  16. As the youngest inhabitants on our road by about 20 years, this is my long term strategy for awkward neighbours. Outlive them all!!!
  17. If OpenReach are pulling the cable, they may expect to see their grey duct at either end, although its much cheaper to pull the cable yourself (buy it from TLC, £50 for 100m) rather than pay the OR rate of £5/m. Only electric supply up to the meter has to be in the special black duct, from meter to house (if external) can be SWG. Gas absolutely needs to be in the yellow perforated ducting to prevent any buildup incase there was a leak. Water is MPDE blue pipe, is not ducted.
  18. Theres a house that backs onto ours that's in planning for a big refurb, this is the main comment from all the objectors "The rooms are too big, it must be a potential guesthouse etc..." Goes both ways though, which people never seem to consider when making the original complaint! There's two old dears that I always meet when doing work at the front, just like Mrs Brown and her mate off the TV. Maybe it's the Irish connection but I did laugh when they once said 'Feck the rest of them, we think its lovely'.
  19. Our plumber (firm, not a sole trader) did a detailed design, calculating flows at every stage, etc etc before we signed off on the proposal. He had a team of lads do the actual work but was onsite a lot himself and pitched in when needed. Our house was 400m2 and it was too big a job for most solo plumbers to quote on. Electrician quoted the same way where there were planning overlaps (heating system) we just let them agree between them how to proceed (costs were equivalent). He was more solo but brought in more hands during first fix to speed things up and also had an AV mate who got pulled in at key moments. A decent trade should be doing such design as routine, you should not need a M&E consultant unless you have some very complex systems working together.
  20. Actually I've been surprised how many passers by have randomly complimented me on our house. Given it's a big white box with cantilevered bits, it does challenge the street scene somewhat. Neighbours are a different story.
  21. Stunning - well done for getting the landscaping done also, really makes a difference. Can't wait until I get my paving and turf down in a few weeks, getting bored of the rubble & weeds look!
  22. We're pretty warm also - east shading is working well but more exposed on the west. Basement is nice and cool though....
  23. Correct We replicated the concrete / EPS detail that MBC rely upon for their twin wall system and it all worked fine. We worked off drawings initially but I made them come measure the actual basement before going into production - caused a few weeks of delay but gave peace of mind. The challenge you will have is ensuring that the non MBC elements are sufficiently airtight (our basement is a big waterproof concrete box so no worries there for us). Suggest you give them a call for a chat, I know that they've done at least one other 'hybrid' build in the past.
  24. Very innovative, challenge will be cost - I can see them online for £3.76 (RRP £13!) but a standard galv box is 70p, less when bulk bought. Question is whether you get the labour saving back from the sparky and tacker, I'd be somewhat doubtful..
  25. Our tackers did a very neat job of the socket holes (and MVHR plenums, toilet pipes etc..)- only ever a few mm gap all round - can't imagine doing it any other way tbh. For downlights, these were drilled after decorating by the sparky who'd noted all his cable positions before hand.
×
×
  • Create New...