MikeSharp01

Not fixed down by the door though so all the expansion is away from the door, is your floating on a membrane?

Anybody know what has become of Ed? Not seen here for some time and his last blog post is also some time back. Hope all is well.

Couple of observations - not sure they are helpful though. I interpret that as meaning you cannot extend the existing side extension (the 1975 one) you could build off the the second one and, as you say maintain a gap between them but that would mean your kitchen diner having a pair of walls, with a gap, jutting out into it where the diner window is now so it seems a daft thing to do. Given that, there must be some other motivation for the clause and I have no idea what that might be. On another matter you seem to have removed the pillar in the middle of the original kitchen diner - presumably with some structural work, will having to restore the building compromise that? Have other houses in the road done the same thing you have done? Finally do we take it that you still have a right to normal retrospective planning permission or is permitted development your only available route here for other reasons - maybe I missed something.

@Novice14 Welcome to THE forum for people like us.

Probably already been done or in progress although I could not find anything like it in any of the listings. I did find one piece of research that would definitely be in the bibliographic remit of such work: "Chewing it over - public attitudes to alternative proteins and meat reduction." https://bryantresearch.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Chewing-It-Over.pdf supposing that you might want to investigate the psychological / attitudinal approach to the 'snack' as this effects the way one tastes it and how perhaps frame of mind is somewhat a function of more than the time of day. However apropos the thread topic I found an interesting chapter on how heat affects our eating habits - a somewhat profound statement of the bleeding obvious but with nuances that make you think along the lines of: 'So if I keep my house warmer I will eat less and be healthier' , 'I can afford to keep my house warmer because it is very well insulated', 'the air tightness of my house forces the use of MVHR which allows me to control, via filtering and flow, the indoor air quality', 'So if I build a well insulated, airtight house and keep it warm I will be healthier' QED . The question is what price / value do you put on that then and how might it affect the way the house should be built and, should you happen to get your vegan sausage roll home - unlikely because of the current evidence of shards of flaky pastry stuck in the seams of the car seats and your trousers indicating that self control in these matters is somewhat lacking, how it tastes there? (Read the chapter here: https://books.google.co.uk/books?hl=en&lr=&id=MFhTp_wtPDMC&oi=fnd&pg=PT201&dq=The+effects+of+insulation+on+food+awareness&ots=h1YqHjdtdo&sig=O0sjlZumkeQJ-O6-y7m1o3OA9vo&redir_esc=y#v=onepage&q&f=false)

Yes sorry I was thinking of our setup.

Guide link: https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-diamond-tile-drill-guide/84524

That will do but you will need a guide as well.

That will give you only 17mm void (They are normally 17mm deep), so 42 assuming a 25x50 counter batten as well or you will need to cut slots in the resilient bars to get any cables through them.

You can get away with this while you make sure the screws pull the board down tight and the screw gets covered with skim. The screws will relax a little over time but even then the gaps around the threads won't add up to much on the scale of things.

@Post and beam don't forget that dew point moves about with relative humidity (RH) so any control system will need RH and temperature inputs to calculate the dew point. A simple equation can be found here although , as the author points out, it gets wobbly below 50% RH.

That is possible but these days you can get many colours in intumescent. We did our only steels, two uprights supporting a cross beam, in white intumescent they look good but only a portion of them will show.

We have updated your permissions and you are now able to blog!

Got our first fix air test today 0.2 on the Passive House scale max = 0.6). (n50) and 0.3 on the Part L scale (max = 5) very happy we are so now we move into second fix. It has been several months of work doing the air tightness taping windows, floors and sealing ducts.

and there be dragons - Mr Bernoulli’s Equation is no fun to apply and this has been discussed before:

Do you recall your methodology for working this out? Did you use just savings in energy input or this and / or other factors?

I have fitted a 22mm Plastic pipe into the wall, mounted at DHT22 on the end of a piece of 15mm pipe and put a RPi PICO on the other end to monitor temperature and Humidity, it is all behind a standard drylining socket box so I can access it and it is fed by a PoE CAT6 cable - power only data is by WiFi. Slide the 15mm pipe and DHT22 into the 22mm pipe, plug the Rpi into the Poe converter, close the wall box and job is done.

WUFI is not for those with a faint heart! I did a full analysis of our wall build up looking for condensation using it and was relatively happy, 'this isn't so hard' I thought, but in the back of my mind I was concerned I hadn't got it right as I had some odd results I could not explain away. So decided to pay a professional - they soon put me straight - it was quite an eye opener! It turns out that for our application you need to focus on worst case zones so, in our case, low down & high up on the eastern side of the north face and ignore everywhere else. (This because the wall build up here is / was subtly different to everywhere else and North facing - something you could work out I suppose and nothing really to do with the software.) So taking an average for each elevation was, could have turned out to be, fatal. We were able to sort the problem by adjusting the build up slightly and using the 'intello' breathable membrane to remove the problem. I have, none the less, installed interstitial Temperature & Humidity sensors in the critical places so I can keep an eye on it!

B-

The OP has been edited all quiet on the western front!

I would make a pattern from a piece of thin ply, say 6mm. Mark out the distances, drill a tiny hole and put a screw through the ply do it sticks out the other side a little. Then measure for the other screw, drill & fit another screw. Check the bookcase fits on the plywood then drill a very small hole in the wall. Lodge one of the sticking out screws in that hole and scribe a small arc, 5mm each way on the horizontal. with the other screw. Use a spirt level to get the horizontal from the small hole over to the arc, then drill the second small hole.

That's a tough ask as the one controls the other. You know what our build up is and the resulting U value (a combination of PU and blown cellulose) and that comes out at 470 mm (ish). Maybe worth looking at making the internal dimensions slightly smaller and playing with internal features; vaulted ceilings, through views, clever decorations etc to make it feel bigger.

Sounds like a great project - keep us updated and welcome THE forum for people like us.

Perhaps a little harsh, we are, after all, trying to learn from one another - nobody is an expert at everything, evolve ideas where can and help others make choices in their projects. You are correct decision support software is just that it helps people make choices and designs need execution during which process yet more choices are made. There are, after all, choices everywhere in self building. All that is somewhat over simplistic because, for instance, during his time here @Jeremy Harris added vastly to the communities knowledge while also proliferating a myriad of choice points. Also, in the end, its good to talk.

Interesting - will need to clear out my dusty rules of thumb draw or maybe I mixed up the pressure generated by a wind rather than the wind velocity generated by a pressure difference meteorologicaly.