MikeSharp01

Exciting stuff, just get them to drive round a few of the big builders estates and publish the data - lets see how they come out.

Somewhere on here I did a site calibration of the Bosch, all my class one tapes and the total station. The Bosch came out well, +/- 0.3 mm over 10m IIRC while the class one tapes were a good way out and didn't agree being very subject to the vagaries of temperature.

Leica Disto maybe. Expensive and good but very limited features - have a Disto, a Bosch and a Lidl (the Lidl one cost £15 - 1/10th of the other two) and works just as well as they do, does not have Bluetooth like the Bosch. On the Bosch Bluetooth operation tightens up the resolution to 0.1mm - who needs that on a building site!!!!!!

yes - they will understand the window system so will make all the correct allowances and work out things like sil / transom heights for Building Control.

Getting away from us southerners - and you will end up with @JohnMo on your door step you could do a lot worse. Welcome to the Forum for people like us.

It is not fool proof but perhaps test a couple of places WITH THE MCB OFF, the meter on 600V range and with safely insulated probes - see dia below, ?1 = what I think you are doing plus also try ?2 and ?3 to see if the neutral has got away from earth. Disconnect any lamps - ?4 as modern LED and tubes have electronics in them which may be charging, and try the voltage test on the DC range as well as AC to see if anything odd is out there. If it goes away when you disconnect the lamps then its coming from / via them somehow and you might be able to spot where the problem is given the 1,2 & 3 tests at both AC and DC.

Aye up Terry. Which W above is meant to read P, suspect the second, or have I missed something?

I have been doing ours on line with UK power networks. Set up an account and just worked through it. It has drop downs for many things including your inverter - not there makes it tough and then all they need it a few pics of the meter installation and a schematic. Need to get ours in now we are putting the cells up, won't connect it up myself, that's an MCS job but have installed the power meter etc as we had the foresight to put an isolator into the power line after the meter so I can isolate it safely.

Yes, totally get that, however those of us made of stronger stuff than clotted cream have mastered the art, with the help of small team of counsellors, of living close by him. Of course we take great care not to poke the dragon for fear of fire and brimstone being cast upon us.

That didn't go well did it, I dimly recall paying to visit Essex and return last week!

Very interesting - this is exactly how it should be loads of capacity in a wasted space zone above the cars and shading for cars in the summer so saving on Air Con when they move. Looks like we are doing it here somewhat as well. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-65626371

Car parks a great idea just add a structure over it and cover with PV it need not be fully waterproof although gutters might be nice.

Just read this in the paper- looks good in principle but the devil will be in getting the grid to accept all this adhoc generation (well not adhoc from the big farms). We are just working through or G99 request to get as much of our 6.8kW out into the street on one phase. There is no solar on any other homes in the road so I am hopeful they will allow it

Welcome to THE forum for people like us.

We did a good deal of work with the PHPP / design to get our are overheating days / % down. My wife was / is worried about it so we also installed some passive cooling, in the form of, what my wife describes, as the rat window at the front of the house - opens at ground level with some rooflights high up at the back of the house with no doors in between thus creating a good draft even on still days and are intending to cool our slab with the ASHP and have a small heat / cool battery in the Upstairs, only two bedrooms, supply side system so we can do a little to cool them if needs be.

On reflection I guess that some of the energy generation will come from ASHP. At a COP of 3.5 you are, after all getting 3.5kW out for each 1kW in. This sort of challenges the 'solar generation must exceed' idea although looking at my calcs above assuming I use all my solar to drive the ASHP at 3.5 COP then we do get there assuming the PHPP package is not already factoring in the COP on the ASHP.

Welcome to THE forum for people like us.

Yes you are right Joe and to be fair I have not read the details from Octopus - but I just looked at our PHPP numbers for our PV, installing it today we were, our primary energy need is projected (by PHPP) to be 114 kWh/m2, Our Treated Floor Area is 139m2 so we would need around 15000 kWh. Meanwhile our current PV setup is projected to produce around 5000kWh/m2 so we would need 3x our current 16 panels. Which is sort of mad given that we perhaps have enough roof area for an additional 8, and would need 8 phases to take away the 21kW generation @ peek any way. So this feels like it aimed at the big builders who can build a solar farm next to the properties - feeding the home individually and dealing with the electricity infrastructure costs needed to make it possible. Jeremy did it with the Fit tariff - he generated more money than his electricity cost not enough electricity - he only had 3.8kW on the roof IIRC.

Sorry to see this. Looks like very poor woodwork, poor painting and poor sealing, which is on the inside face, allowing water past onto the middle sill where it has been sucked up by the side frames and soaked into the sill itself - my guess is that its was a very drafty window - more so now.

We have put two 4K (8K to the very local) HDMI and two CAT6 cables and a terrestrial Arial cable to each TV point and fed the HDMI, only cost £150 for the cables, back to the media panel - not really sure why but it seemed like belt and braces. We can stream the same image / sound to all the TVs in synch (nearly) via the HDMI.

Yes but if you own the field - you can cash in big time - yipeeeeeeeee...

Because A is the telephone network standard and B is the Network standard. In the end though as long as both ends are wired the same it will work it's just 'not the done thing'. Get a decent push down tool is my best advice as the cheaper ones don't do the stub cutting well , and there can be RF implications if they are not cut cleanly - although I doubt this is the problem being discussed here, in my experience.

I was not aware of this. Sounds like a plan - need to read up on home assistant - did a bit last year and have a setup running somewhere was not sure I wanted to use it. So I guess that's the first discussion- to HA or not to HA - that is the question whether it is nobler....

Ah, sorry - it was just I had used a couple of these: https://www.findernet.com/en/croatia/series/22-series-modular-contactors-25-40-63a/ and they may fit in your enclosure. Also f you want off the shelf then you could use a din rail mounted diode setup like this one https://cpc.farnell.com/camdenboss/cim-4w-dioca/4-way-diode-35mm-din-rail-module-common-anode/dp/mc02830?srsltid=AfmBOooS2bLnk8DoI0qYraRRMra3jWc8mtBLjb2h384Kn1RY4MJeeKtCecQ and just wire the diodes across the contacts.

Wish there was an RpiHOME equivalent of this - I know there are some initiatives out there but it would be good to support our local listed company!