oranjeboom

Yes, it's good to hope! As with those B&O speakers - do I get those or spend it on some more insulation? I noticed the other day how waving the celotex around above my FM radio how that interfered with the signal so I thought there may be some issues with the speakers too. Yeah, I'll have to make sure there's no straggly bits of 'alooominum' touching anywhere the connections. Back to my final insulation layer then....

was thinking of these https://www.soundandvision.com/content/origin-acousticsbang-olufsen-boc106-ceiling-speaker-review but with my wallet at the moment will probably go for something like these that folk on here have mentioned https://tech4homes.co.uk/adastra-iw5-in-wall-ceiling-speaker yes, will have to cut some celotex but was thinking the surrounding peripheral foil may still interfere, but will fit conduit which will also make it easier to replace the cable in future if needed.

Not wanting to start a new thread on this one, so just resurrecting! About to plaster the vaulted ceiling which will have 170mm celotex in between and under 50mm under rafters. The plan is to create sufficient void in the celotex to place speaker in there. Is there likely to be any interference with the foil face of the insulation? What about speaker wire running through/along celotex? Would conduit help in any way?

Thanks @Nickfromwales. I've put in about 3-5 conduits already for future cables etc so will add one in for a future gas pipe and then seal with some minimal exp foam! Back to insulatin the damn vaulted (with valley) roof - too many darn angles!

Thanks all! I may now even have convinced the wife to just go for a bio-ethanol type setup instead! But will still add a copper pipe in wall for future owners.

Ouch! We only did 150 sheets a couple of weeks ago and that took a while. We tried 3 boards at a time for a while but that simply wasn't worth our backs! Good luck!

I really need her to start hanging pictures.... " If the pipe is to be installed behind plasterboards, timber battens or continuous adhesive dabs should be used to surround the pipe." https://copperplumbing.org.uk/sites/default/files/content_attachments/domestic-gas-installation-testing_0.pdf I should actually be able to squeeze it hard into a corner where I am going to have a corner unit built, so no chance of nailing pics etc. Just need to remember not to puncture it when I build the unit! Yes, the sizing for gas fires appears pretty small usually 8-12mm IIRC, so will probably go for 15mm so that I can add some protective steel on top.

Having persuaded the boss that we won't be have a log fire/open fire, I told her that we could *potentially* have a gas fire installed at some point in the future. Hopefully she will see that we really don't need one once she gets used to the UFH. As a precaution, I would like to install one length of copper piping vertically up the lounge wall before it's hidden behind the plasterboard that I'll be putting up soon. I don't want the gas pipe on show nor do I want the wall to be cut in future to hide the pipework. The boiler would be up in the attic also, so the feed from the main (22mm?) supply pipe would only be 5-6m from the gas fire. Difficult to anticipate now what size gas fire we would have in future, so is it best to oversize the pipe? The wall itself would be 25mm battened, so I am thinking to just insert a 3m length of 22mm piping fixed to wall. This will protrude at the top in the attic and at floor level (gas fitter would just have to chop out a small section around the skirting board in future to connect to gas fire and obviously in the attic would have to make the connection to the main gas pipe. And yes, I realise that if we ever have a gas fire, all the fitting and remaining pipework would have to be done by a certified fitter. TIA

Just bought some of this stuff which says it's airtight: https://www.stickyproducts.co.uk/products/universal-air-tight-membrane-outdoor-sealing-tape?variant=18078275783 Not used it yet though. 25m @£11.

Not really sure what Alpha Flex is. Not come across that before, but looking here http://www.ledaflex.com/ it seems a waterproofing medium, so in that a good VCL! I did not use it, just used a green polysheet as my VCL. Door fixed to that (fixings through to steel) and then frame also foamed and eventually taped on inside to the adjacent window frame.

"MINIMALIST outlet elbow chrome". Not like this thread then!! This thread keeps coming up when I do a search on BH! Must be the longest thread on BH so far.Hope there is no page limit @Onoff!!!!

I had a similar dilemna and didn't want to bulk out the post too much with thick insulation (PIR or anything similar). In the end I went and dug into the account and went for aerogel sheets. Stuck that onto the steel post on all four sides, covered with a VCL and then covered that with some timber. Better u-values than PIR, slimmer view and will protect from condensation and reduce thermal bridging. Aerogel: use a mask to cut the stuff! wrap onto posts (had to tape them as I was doing this on my own), otherwise could maybe use a spray glue. VCL Timbers drillied into steel post (bit of bridging): (glazing to be fitted in above pic). Aluminium capping still to go over the timbers now, but need to source that. Timbers were pretty thick, but managed to get away with that here as the door frame was almost 200mm iirc.

Planning for plasterer to go over the old plastered walls with a thin skim. Of course I'd already started to prep the old walls by taking out old hooks, flaking paint etc. Now with with the humidity from the damp weather, I'm getting condensation on the walls which is evident along hairline cracks. Is there anything I can apply to prevent this (i.e. prevent the plaster soaking up any moisture) as I don't want to end up having to remove all the old plaster due to damage from the condensation. Plasterer is set to start in January, so only 5-6 wks time. There's no heating and the house is pretty open (not all doors in yet). Should I be worried? I've read of PVA, but is that going to cause an issue with the skim being applied later? I've read conflicting views about that.

Not at that stage yet. Spring job with the render etc. Did have some crazy quotes back from some contractors for supply and fit though.

Weekend spent in the loft getting things prepped for plumbing and building studwalls (for creating an atrium hallway downstairs) and I have been trying to plan routes for my MHVR ducting. Most of the ducting will serve a bungalow with ducting to go via loft, but will also have to route it into a 2 storey extension that has been built onto the other side of a gable wall, i.e: Most likely will end up going for the semi-rigid type stuff. My only real concern is that there are likely to be a few obstacles in the way that will have to be navigated around which means the ducting will have to go up by 500mm and then come down again by the same amount, a bit like so: Sorry about my drawing skills! This up and over is not really avoidable and obviously that's the whole point in this type of ducting to make installs easier and navigate walls, machinery and limited space. My main concern is with condensation getting stuck and collecting at any of the bends. I assume if it is sufficient lagged with insulation, I should not have any issues with condensation? I will try and create less of a gradient to improve the flow rate: drawings skills still not getting any better! There are many factors that will affect flow rates and the more bends that get introduced the worse things get, so in terms of positioning the ducting, should I just try and make each bend/gradient as smooth as possible? There's only really one tight area where I will have to either navigate around an RSJ by either going under (blue route) or punching holes through a cavity and SIP wall (red option - least favoured): Some of the quotes I have received include a preliminary routing plan but Of course they are not aware of actual obstacles in the loft - do they fine tune the plans later on once they've received my ££££ or is it a case of me just deciding a 'best fit' once I get to install it? I've had enough of cowboys so this is something I want to do properly myself! Hoping I can get as neat as some of these install pics! Lastly, are there any issues if I run some of the ducting along the purlins of the roof? Obviously will need to find a way to insulate the ducting sufficiently, but would like to keep the ducting off the floor of the attic if possible to keep future cowboys from walking/leaning/sitting on them! Thanks in advance! I'll have some other newbie questions after I've ready and deciphered some of the quotes received so far! OB

Just had a quote back from 2nds and co. They're actually £200 more than Insulation Giant. I know even the new boards are usually a bit warped etc, but curious how they price their used/2nds stuff. Probably pricing in the 'PIR shortage' thing....not sure what the actual lead time is with new stuff but hopefully sooner than the 5weeks that most suppliers are advertising still. BTW, anyone seen any spectacular Black Friday prices on any PIR?? Rockwool seems to be 'reduced' on some sites.

75mm rafters have been beefy enough for the past 70yrs and BCO did not mention them. They supported heavy concrete tiles before but have replaced them with fibre cement slates, so quite a bit lighter. I'll be doing the fitting myself as most of the contractors I've had in have simply been clueless/"well this is how i have always dunnit.." mentality. So I'll be making sure to get the detailing and fitting correct. As for 2nds & Co, I sometimes find that some of their pricing is still a bit on the high side especially with this so-called PIR shortage. But I'll take another look, or maybe delay until tomorrow for all those wonderful Black Friday sales.

Just about to order some more PIR having sorted out my plan of attack. Half of this pitched roof is going to be 'vaulted' (i.e. Just one pitch of the roof with internal wall coming up right up to the ridge). So planning to fill between the 75mm (yes 75mm!) rafters with 25mm PIR and then a further 200mm PIR under the rafters. That leaves me with a 50mm ventilation gap. It's a slated roof with battens (not countered or any sarking) but have Tyvek breather membrane which I think means I could even reduce ventilation gap to 25mm? Build Reg Table 2 seems to say that roof u-value should be 0.18: https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/540327/BR__PDF__AD_L1B_2013_with_2016_amendments.pdf This is a retrofit rather than new build but I want to get as good as I can get u-values and not simply satisfy BR! I've read so many conflicting roof values ranging from 0.11 to 0.2! Just need a sanity check that I'm on the right track here. Celotex calculator tells me I will end up with around 0.1 so with my EWI and 3G windows I am hoping i am on the right path. Everyone's specs are different but with BR values being pretty dire it's difficult to guage what a decent u-value would be! Should I try and improve on 0.1? I may be able to add a further 50mm but would mean fitting the plasterboard becomes a bit more cumbersome (Would probably have to fit battens underneath PIR and then fix PB to that).

Ahhhh sizes!!!! Don't get me started on that one. Okay, well you have now.... In Europe they have other sizes for Marmox. I was after a bigger size that the std ones you get here in UK. But I was speaking to the local Jewson's manager who assured me he could obtain the size I needed ("Yes, I can get hold of them, no problems, stop fussing you belligerent home-builder...now leave me to deal with some other orders" was what he was coming across like). So after 3 confirmations from Jewson, the truck arrived...with the standard UK size!!! That really set me back a bit with a feeble excuse from Jewsons. They lost a lot of business from me after that. In the end, I ended up collecting the Marmox blocks from Belgium on the back of a trailer. Weight is no issue of course with these blocks! So have a look at the Belgian/European sites for sizes. Many of the yards would probably ship them over to UK (I live in Kent so Belgium is next door). EDIT: I needed 190 breadth. I see they do 240 and 290 for you: http://marmox.com/products/61.pdf page 67.

Have you considered one of the insulation block approaches beneath the sole plate (Foamglas, Marmox...)? This is my approach:

Is this one you are referring to? I need something guts, not just for the build, but also for the mrs who goes thru hoovers like she goes ladders her tights ("oooops, I need another one....") http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Numatic-Industrial-Commercial-Dry-Vacuum-Cleaner-Collection-Only-Leeds-Henry-/192328789937 Thanks - I looked at that but even though they say it's for the workshops and garage they do stipulate "Not designed for use in commercial, trade or industrial applications", so not sure how durable it will be on a work site. Still it has a 3 year guarantee. Just need to make sure you remove the bits of rubble and plaster when you take it back!!

I may have been to careful with my UFH manifold on my block wall, but what I did was the followimg: stick 10mm of EPS insulation sheet on wall place OSB onto EPS sheet mechanical fix with screws and rawlplug through the board and EPS into wall with rubber washers separating steel manifold from OSB I don't expect any / much noise from the manifold/pumpset, but thought I may as well try and minimise the risk. Probably overkill in my case and not even sure that my approach would work as UFH is not even running at this stage! But what you may find is placing a few rubber washers between your bracketry and the wall may eliminate the noise/hum somewhat. And potentially no need to take the whole lot down if you can reach each fixing point one at a time?

Well if it's airtight render on the car = rustproofing it!!! Bonus!

The audacity for him to be shouting at you?!!!!!! Probably not used to a 'mere woman' (and whom knows nothing about boarding) complaining about his fine workmanship!! I would have been tempted to tell him to pack up and go in any case but I guess you have to think of the long term and any delays that would have caused trying to find a replacement. If he's on any of those findacowboybuilder sites, it may be worth putting your comments on there. But well done! In a few months I no doubt will be putting my plasterboarding fiasco on here too!

Hi Peter, Let me know if you need a hand installing it. No expert, but if you need an extra pair of hands/muscle, I'd be happy to help.