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oranjeboom

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Everything posted by oranjeboom

  1. oranjeboom
    Didn't see venturi in my pipework today. A few drips in manifold but managed to screw it all up tight. Pressure seemed to hold too. So did my pressure, after doing an all nighter prepping everything. Half slab done, and hopefully get it all finished tomorrow if the bloody mixer turns up on time. After 3hours of sleep this weekend, i may actually go to bed now! I'll post some pics soon. Actually better seal the front door b4 bloody wabbit or cat make it in there...
  2. oranjeboom
    I was flushing through, getting rid of air and have now pressurised all loops and the manifold. Started at about 3.5 bar, now just above 2.2. Not too concerned as I can see where it's losing pressure. A couple of the manifold connections need a tighten here and there, but will have a play with that before I hit the sack at 3am probably again. Faffing with my mesh chairs at the moment, getting my glazing protected, cutting the last of the 2000 cable ties and checking my datum for the 50th time. How many chairs do I need? Every 2nd (200mm mesh) square? or can I spread them out a bit more?
  3. oranjeboom
    @PeterW Yes, that IS how I was going to do it. I assumed that I would have been shipped a defacto pressure kit from Wunda, so I released a bit of wind yesterday when I realised they hadn't. Quote included a pressure guage but that was it (i.e. no automated air valve) so I knew there must be some way of using that. I called them and they confirmed they had changed things a bit so now you can pressure test with pump unit in place, replace one of the temp guages with the pressure guage. Test each loop one by one, and then at the end when all return valves are off on the return bar, the manifold itself is under pressure. Method here: http://www.wundatrade.co.uk/downloads/M07 Wunda Manifold.pdf page 4.
  4. oranjeboom
    Thank's @JSHarris....not what I wanted to read!!!! Why isn't there a "Do not like this button" next to the "like this" button???? Loop number 4 like a jacuzzi until it settled down. Tightening some outside joins seems to help a little at least.
  5. oranjeboom
    Thanks all. I added a PRV into the mix of things which I think may not be helping the various joins prior to the PRV. Very high pressure here like @Onoff. I guess with your slab Jeremy @JSHarris you 'just' had the slab and didn't have too many people on that during the pour. My slab is in the confines of 9 or so rooms, so repeated heavy traffic in some places. Thanks @richi...need to dig out my physics books again. It'll take longer to fix all non-UFH leaks so hopefully as long as I get it all pressurised albeit with a bit of air in the loops then it sounds like it won't matter for the purposes of the concrete pour tomorrow. I just don't like the thought of people trampling over the pipework if there's no pressure at all. Onto loop 3....
  6. oranjeboom
    As usual, things are turning a bit last minute. Manifold is now on, loops are on etc. I have started to bleed my 12 circuits and am finding that there is a lot of air being dispelled in the bucket (had to empty about 6 buckets on one loop already). As concrete is being poured tomorrow first thing I'm feeling a bit anxious. Have had to rig up a temporary water supply to the manifold from an outside temporary tap involving a longish hose pipe and there are a few drips along the way to the manifold supply valve (i.e. at the outside tap etc). Is it possible that the air is being introduced into the ufh set up, rather than within the ufh pipework/manifold? No sign of leaks in pipework yet. I won't have a pressure reading until I have water in all circuits so can't yet determine if there is a pressure fall. Certainly no leaks in the ufh pipework (had a visual check in the rooms done so far). I'm hoping the air is being introduced elsewhere - could that be the case? Does it matter that I may have some air in ufh pipework when the concrete gets poured? I presume as long as it is all under pressure then I should be okay? The air can be expelled at some other distant point I presume. Hoping @Nickfromwales or some other experts can advise! TIA!
  7. oranjeboom
    All that effort and now you are off??!! We did the reverse actually Sydney --> UK and then decided to build a house, though the wife is also keen to go back to Oz. At least self building is easier out there. If your are mad enough to do it again!
  8. oranjeboom
    So bloody typical. Happy to take your money and get the job done. Get him to do the flooring/tiling now and let's see whether he has any difficulty!!! It's really no wonder builders have such a bad image in this country. Guess he's all paid up too? I made that mistake once also. But it sounds like it can be rectified fairly easily although still a PIA after his assurances.
  9. oranjeboom
    That's my worst fear too. My floor is being poured next week and also have been assured it will be level, smooth etc etc. Getting a sanding company will cost a bit again, so hopefully your builder can either rectify himself or cough up for the further expense. As long as it's all mostly level those ridges should not be too much of a big deal if they can be ground/cut down.
  10. oranjeboom
    But I see in the last pic tha he's ready for them fires with the water containers and a bit of hosepipe. Expect Dupont will sue his ass off for that being upside down.
  11. oranjeboom
    I had the same, the sole plate itself and then another timber the same height again. I cut both out at the doorways to reveal the blockwork which then became my DPC level. Once the SIP panels are insitu and fixed I don't think the sole plate at the doorways have any purpose. They aren't holding anything in place. So what height is your blockwork wall that your SIPs sit on?
  12. oranjeboom
    Had a similar scenario where my concrete/screed layer was going to be above my sole plate. I was simply going to ensure that my DPM lapped up against the side the sole plate and up the OSB wall. Don't forget the perimeter insulation. In the end I went with a mix of PIR and EPS so my floor is going to end up level with the blocks that my SIPs sit on. Also consider cold bridging around this area and how to minimise. As for vacuum panels, aren't they prone to losing the vacuum over time? And also bloody £££?
  13. oranjeboom
    I was just going to follow your setup - only reason i read the instructions was because the boss asked me "do you know what you are doing?"....
  14. oranjeboom
    Hi Nick. I have Honeywell D04FM. Yours the same @Onoff? If so, here are the instructions: http://www.honeywelluk.com/Documents/Installation-Guide/pdf/d04fm-ii-mu1h1054ge23r0215.pdf Page 4 section 5.1.....
  15. oranjeboom
    @Onoff I see that you installed the PRV vertically like I intend to also (MDPE up through the slab, then copper vertically up the whole into attic). However, now in receipt of my Honeywell PRV and I see the instructions state it can be fitted vertically or horizontally but "In vertical installation position spring bonnet with adjustment knob facing upwards". Not had a drop tonight but if I follow that instruction, then the flow in the PRV will be in the wrong (downwards) direction. Have you had any issues with this @Onoff? Wondering whether that will affect the pressure setting/reading and also debris collection filter? Maybe the resident plumber, @Nickfromwales can clarify? My preference is to have a nice straight run, rather than adding in a horizontal section.
  16. oranjeboom
    Now you tell me!! Just got back from the 'station. Actually, yes, I saw you had problems with yer plumbing in another post. Will see how/if mine has the same issues. Thanks!
  17. oranjeboom
    Thanks! Those Honeywell's aren't cheap are they!!! Just found one on fleabay for around £17 (*unused*....) Well if it works for you! I thought there may be issues going from 20mm-->25mm MDPE and then 22mm. Off to the 'station to get my adaptors then!
  18. oranjeboom
    I was hoping for an easy answer @Nickfromwalesas I did not want to venture out in this not so fine weather. But my flow rate a la bucket method is 14L in 20secs, so 42L/minute, so does not seem to be an issue. However, like I said, I have a number of commercial units next door so maybe the flow rate is improved by the landlord during the day, so I will do another test a bit later this evening. So okay to stick to the original 20mm MDPE?
  19. oranjeboom
    In this 'renoextension' the original MDPE supply was 20mm which I had to pull out during structural works and now looking to pull back in. It's a private water supply coming in from landowner next door in 20mm MDPE (no chance to replace that all the way to source at the moment). Not noticed any issues with water pressure living in the static, but I recall reading somewhere on BH that it's probably best to opt for 22mm in the house itself (after stopcock) if there is a chance of low incoming pressure. The landowner next door rents out various commercial units units next door (so there is a potential for a drop in pressure but I haven’t noticed so far) so just want to insure myself against pressure issues. I need to get my UFH pressure tested soon, so just need a connection in the house again and may as well get it right from the very beginning. I was looking to go for 20mm MDPE to 22mm but options seemed very limited (though typically did find an option last night, typically here https://www.drainagepipe.co.uk/products/mdpe-water-pipe-fittings/mdpe-to-universal-copper-adaptor/20mm-x-15/22mm/) I can either stick with the 20mm MDPE or would it be best to replace my incoming MDPE from the boundary with 25mm? Not sure what I'm going for in terms of UVC, boiler, TS etc etc but was reading that 20mm is a safer bet (for runs to bath at least), but that will be more questions in another post. TIA
  20. oranjeboom
    Some feedback after me chasing them for a response....apparently my email to Wunda got lost in their system. 1) Wet particular manifold was one of the ones they checked before shipment. A certain percentile are tested, they say. I'm fine with that. 2) Dented coil is a cosmetic impact thing. I'm fine with that if it had happened on site but a bit annoyed that it must have been shipped like that in the first place. It was carefully packed on the pallet and could not have happened in transit as otherwise some of the others would have had dings too. 3) As for the dented/scratched boards with plaster marks and coffee stains...." Well this was the slightly thornier issue. I’m afraid that nobody can account for storage of panels from date of delivery 8.7.17 until your contact to us on 16.8.17 ". Yes, they can't vouch for what happened to them after delivery. In the same flamin' way I can't account for these boards their warehouse!! ".... it’s quite literally impossible for you to have received used materials as any returns are quarantined. I have been assured that your specific purchase has not been through the hands of anybody else". Well I would know if anyone's been plastering on site or having coffee breaks in my house as it's only me on site so it must have been shipped in that condition! With hindsight, yes, I should have checked every component carefully on receipt, but this is not always possible. Though I am not really happy with their overall service (numerous screw ups in the design, ignored my specs, no returned calls etc) I did choose them for their product and what people on here have said about them. Just hope it all works now!
  21. oranjeboom
    Think I read on BH somewhere that it can be 'sanded down' by a few mm to get rid of the scummy top. But I'm sure the experts on here know more... ahh found them: and
  22. oranjeboom
    Absolutely! And disputing the crap my architect was suggesting and raising of eyebrows at the BR! Has all meant I am almost at yr 4, rather than living in an expensive, inefficient box! I may be wifeless by the time the place is ready though! @Nickfromwales I was down your way last week and sampled just a few local brews (can't recollect them, one had a ref dragon on the label). But I haven't tried the above one. Next time I am dragged down to visit the MIL! Phoning round I came to around the same Gen1 concrete price (£2570ish inc) which includes the pump hire (2days). So the labour side of it is then £1400ish so £350/day for both guys. Still seems steep, but that's mostly due to me not having anyone paid on site for a while and also due to being a typical stingey tight-arse (dutch) git. And the floor is one of the things I don't want to risk doing myself! So if I don't go for the mother's milk option above and do decide to go for fibres. Looks like I can get 900gm bags of fibre on fleabay for about £8/m3. How practical is it to ask the delivery guy to add this to the mixer?
  23. oranjeboom
    No heat loss calculations have been done. I have/will have 3G windows, EWI, MHVR and plenty loft insulation so would like to think it's going to be a lot better than today's BRs! And I have roof. A few more calls for other GEN1 prices.
  24. oranjeboom
    I'm just bloody glad the wife doesn't read this....
  25. oranjeboom
    @MikeSharp01 Can't recollect who you used - the Herne Bay mob? Pls PM me. thanks
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