oranjeboom

Well that's the problem! Designed and laid to be at least 40mm below surface but during the pour some of mesh and pipe rose (yes it was filled) but the f****** who poured the floor didn't think it mattered and would just pour on a bit more concrete to hide any instances where this occured. So in some areas I had about 2mm of cover. Floor has been ground down now to have a level finish, but I can't risk grinding/cutting any more concrete in case there's a pipe a few mm below surface.

Okay, bit of a problem in that I have a stud wall (2.5m length with a door at one end) that will need its sole plate fixing somehow to the concrete. Normally a few mechanical fixings would do the job. However in this case I can't be 100% sure where the pipework is located as the guy who poured the concrete made a total mess of things with some pipework movement. I did take photos and measurements prior to pour but all of that is redundant if the pipework locations have shifted. So I really don't want to drill into the concrete and cause any further grief for myself. Thermal imaging will not help in this case as the heating is not online yet. So as I see it, I can friction fit the studs between the floor and ceiling joists but also give the sole plate a generous amount of adhesive of some kind. Any recommendations? 'No more nails', Pink Grip etc are some of the ones people have used. I was thinking of CT1 or something like https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p11337 or https://www.screwfix.com/p/nemesis-mighty-seals-grabs-sealant-adhesive-white-290ml/8736j?_requestid=276455? TIA!

Did you say your kit is SIPs? Including the roof? Had my kit from a SIPs company who turned out totally incompetent and unprofessional (you didn't mention them here you will be glad to hear - and the mods will be happy to hear that I won't type their name in BIG CAPS here either!), but they sub-contracted the install out who sub-contracted that out to a couple of installers who actually did a great job. They will travel anywhere if you don't get anywhere. Oh yes, and make 101% sure you get someone decent to pour your floors. I used some prick who was recommended by a local architect, but I'm still rectifying his utter bollox of a job now. I'm sure you can't find anyone worse than that!

Just fill the hole and get one of these heads: You can re-enact that Hitchcock scene every time you have a shower.

Ok, even better then, as I may have to share the conduit in a couple of walls with cabling for light switches. Thanks very much all! Another job for this coming week then!

Thanks Dave for s-p-e-l-l-i-n-g it out! Like I said, I just wanted to get it cabled in and then wait for the electrician to make the final connections. And he's evasive like a politician, so I have one final question. ? Can I get away with 1.0mm 3 core + E? Something like this? https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CA1slash3G.html or a bit beefier like 1.5mm as suggested earlier by someone else?

Perfect then for me. Ok, so L1, N1 use T3 and T4 o the thermostat back to the wiring centre. And the power (T2,T1) goes where - wiring centre also, or ?? Like I said, I am no electrician, but just need to know where to run the cables to/from! I will have 8 zones for the downstairs manifold with some rooms being covered by 1 zone.

Both are from Wunda again. The wiring centre is 230VAC H-box-12: https://cdn.wundatrade.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/E07-Generic-H-Box-12V1.2-wiring-centre-09-10-2017.pdf The actuator ("Stellantrieb 2 / Drive") is also 230VAC: Thanks @Temp I don't have a boiler, just two eDual Uniq sunamp units which will be within 2m of the downstairs UFH manifold. I will have a manifold upstairs (where I will have only 1 bedroom and ensuite, but may not end up installing UFH up there). Both thermostat and wiring centre are from wunda so they must be compatible. From the instructions does 'SL' refer to switched L?

Thanks @PeterW ! Will I need to run each back to the consumer unit or can I connect to nearest available supply? It's mostly all routed above in the loft, so hopefully I don't need to connect each back to base!

Doesn't the local DNO have to 'approve' export levels once you hit a certain amount. Isn't there also a drop off point where for the FIT, it's not worth going over 4Kw unless you go a lot higher? I'm assuming people don't do it for the tariff rates these days anyway.

Okay, so I worked out that ports 7 and 6 are for the floor probe - anyone know if the probes are polarity sensitive or can I user either port? Can anyone shed light on my other questions?

Yes, I think you are right. After all, you're more interested in the air temp to set the room by rather than slab temp. But as I have them in the slab I thought I may as well connect them. I presume I can over-ride the probe. If not, I just disconnect the wiring at a later stage.

So I'll probably have 1 thermostat for each room and am using Wunda's wired touchscreen units W91.713: From what I can work out, I will need to wire up each thermostat to the manifold's wiring centre (4, 3) and also power (2,1)from the consumer unit/fuse box, but preferably a nearby fused spur? I have two rooms that will have a floor probe, so that gets wired into 7 and 6? 2 more questions: 1) what cable back to the wiring centre? 2) What cable for power? https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p71065? Electrician will be checking my handiwork/making the final connections, but I wanted to get the buggers on the walls and cabling in before I do some more boarding up.

Would be okay if it was just one I needed. 3x 4-ports, and 1x 2-port! But seeing I need to do the HRC in brass anyway, it makes sense to do it all in brass. At least I only paid £64 for 100m of 10mm Hep2o pipe.

Let's not sink to these new low-levels of humour shall we?? So now I see that there's not a 4 port 15mm manifold - great. The setup was to be in a fairly confined space as it is and having 2x 2ports in place of a 4 port manifold is going to take up space with additional connectors. I could get use the brass manifold type instead, but the prices put me off (£43!!!), but the advantage they have is that they look better (although no one's going to see it!) and they have the inbuilt valves which I would also have to add to a full plastic setup. Are there any other advantages going for a brass manifold setup??? Any cheaper sources for the brass buggers? https://www.jtmplumbing.co.uk/pipe-fittings-c433/hep-o-brass-manifold-and-fittings-c661/hep2o-four-port-valved-manifold-15-tm-tf-fp-p21691

That's terrible! Really don't see why you had to pipe up this time of night.

Thanks @PeterW That is a good price with free del over £50. I best start looking at what bits I need for a manifold etc! For anyone in Herts: https://hertsplumbingsupplies.co.uk/pushfit-plumbing/55-15mm-x-25m-hep2o-barrier-pipe-coil-hxx2515w.html£33inc. Delivery makes it more expensive than JTM though, so unless you can collect...

@Nickfromwales - I will thank you NOW Nick - your input is always appreciated. Have any forumites bought any Hep2o recently? As I'm not using this for heating, I presume I may as well just go for the standard Hep20 rather than the barrier type pipe? Any good online merchants for Hep2o? Wickes appear competitive at £40 for 15mm 25m barrier pipe using the 10% discount offer. Looks like their are better prices on barrier than std.

@Nickfromwales Thanks again! wadevayalikefromthere - does that come in 22mm? Will ask in Toolstation tomorrow. Oh, okay. That makes it simples then. I like simples. Just retain the hot return from the hot, manifold, correct? Just retain the hot return from the hot manifold, correct?

Oh, okay. That makes it simples then. I like simples. Just retain the hot return from the hot, manifold, correct? Cos I got over 6bar innit. I have a private water setup from the neighbouring landowner and there could be a potential for the pressure to increase when they aren't using water, so I thought it be best to have a pressure reducer/limiter. Not read the sunamp material yet, but I guess that may need protection. Also, water softener may need pressure limited too? The PredV is fitted already. Oh yes, do I need a non-return valve anywhere?

Thanks @Nickfromwales. Yes, I was thinking of having a timer of some description for the HRC to the hot manifold. I've added pipe sizing to each outlet now on my crappy sketch below (Visio pi55ing me off!) and think that tallies up with what you recommended. Ignore the pipework between the UFH manifold and the Sunamps - I haven't looked at the SA instructions yet and will most likely get a plumber to assist me with that side of things. I have added a water softener as it's all 'well 'ard' down this way, innit. Not sure what system to go for, but I have seen a thread about that elsewhere on BH to read up on. 1) I also have a feeling that I need a non-return valve somewhere - between the stopcock and PRV? 2) As for the actual pipe, as I'm not using this for heating, I presume I may as well just go for the standard Hep20 rather than the barrier type pipe? Any good online merchants for Hep2o? Wickes appear competitive at £40 for 15mm 25m barrier pipe using the 10% discount offer. Looks like their are better prices on barrier than std.

@Nickfromwales - Thanks for the info Nick! I have some comments below and some qs also! Yes 2x eDual units. Floors fully insulated, will have EWI and plenty of loft roll/PIR in every crevice I can force it. 3G windows. Hopefully better than a tent (at least the weight of the Sunamps will stop the tent from flying away!) Don't go down that path!! Concrete floor is all UFH and I don't want to be digging any of that out again! So my only choice is that long run. But I will be having that Quooker type tap in the kitchen so the hot tap will barely see use. But I'll go for the 10mm runs for hot and cold then for the kitchen then and all other sinks/basins - also for toilets I guess? With regards to the HRC - is that really needed between the sunamps and the manifolds? The distance would only be around 3m, but I guess if that is to be 22mm, then there is extra volume involved.

Somehow I have told the boss we'll be in for Christmas....? Most likely 2019 though, but I did not mention that.... But ideally would like to have the downstairs livable with at least 1 bathroom, kitchen and UFH in operation, which means I need to get my skates on. For my retro-extension I will have 2 bathrooms (1 upstairs, above bedroom 3), utility with WC and Kitchen. I have 2x 12kw Sunamp units that will provide DHW and also my UFH (real life testing will prove whether I need to go for an ASHP/off-grid PV panels next year, but that will be another topic...). Looking to getting my plumbing sorted and have decided to go for plastic over copper using a manifold setup for most rooms. Pipe runs are fairly short, with the longest being to the kitchen (18m) - can't avoid that. Water flow (42L/minute) and pressure (6bar iirc) are all good. Sunamp units will be located in the cloakroom ("CLKS") so a short distance to the manifolds next door (1.5m ish) in the utility room UFH manifold is located next to Sunamp units The upstairs bathroom will be located above bedroom 3 with a piperun of approx 10m max to the furthest outlet My plan was to use: 15mm pipe for all runs/ to all outlets. I believe CJARD on ebuild had that approach as did @JSHarris so I can't be too far off. Instant hot water tap in kitchen so hot water pipe would be pretty much redundant (unless i use it for mega washing up session) so I don't think there is a need for HRC. Only potential 'hot water wait' outlet will be upstairs for shower/bath but that will only be 9m run. I was going to use 10mm for some outlets such as toilets and basins ("to reduce water velocity and stop the WC from over monopolising water pressure" as per @Nickfromwales) but will obviously need reducers which brings extra cost and another potential leaky join - though hep20 is pretty fool proof I read!), so if I can stick to 15mm all round, then I can just get two rolls of 100m. So hopefully can do without 10mm?plumbing plan.pdf Any flaws in my thinking? I'll have more questions with the finer details no doubt (PRVs, NRVs etc) later on! Attached is a rough plan. Pipe runs are indicative only at this stage but show their relative locations. NB: Kitchen run has to go the route as indicated due to cathedral ceilings. Cold water pipe runs not shown but will be roughly in same routes as hot. Upstairs not shown seperately but located above bedroom 3. plumbing plan.pdf

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-cornwall-44879858 I bet this got the attention of the Persimmon directors!

I would just say 'don't do it'!!! Our 6-12 months planned static living has turned out to be 4.5yrs now...not all fun. The initial 'holiday-feel' wore off a long time ago. If you are 100% sure that you will only live in there for 1 winter and perhaps also don't have kids, then it's not too bad. But it's not all fun....as you can probably imagine. Double glazing will help, but these things aren't designed for all year round living. It'll be cold, pipes will freeze, there will be mould and the damn thing will be too small....especially after arguments! It could be worth fitting a log burner in there and with all the doors open, should keep things toasty in winter. I also insulated underneath with loft roll and 'blocked' it all in so there are no nasty gales. Just ensure you keep all the vents open in the floor!!! Get a de-humidifier as the LPG and cooking will saturate the thing, especially curtains, clothes etc. Layout is important! We managed to pick one with kids bedrooms down one end, ours the other end with kitchen and lounge in between. Walls have no sound barriers so any small fart will be heard! Don't spend too much on the thing. Unless you are lucky to buy a bargain you are unlikely to recoup your money when you sell it on! My wife's going to burn ours so I won't get anything back! Connect the gutters with some downpipes and drain away the water. Stops the walls going green and stops the surrounding ground from getting extra boggy! Site it away from wind prone areas if possible. They will tend to be a bit 'reactive' with the winds! And don't buy from a certain company that has the name 'Hampshire' or 'Salisbury' in their title. PVC = deluxe??? Really? More likely to crack get damaged I would say. Nothing wrong with alu-skinned ones.