twice round the block

Looks like someone previously used a sand / cement mix on one area. Has the damp problems been totally resolved, that blew the plaster in the first place? A lime mix will let it breath. I would put some uni bond on first and let it dry, before applying render.

Yes 1-2-3.or 3-2-1 whatever its called. in a tin, I think screwfix flog it. 🤣

Can't find any search for." affordable budget builder Ltd. in your area that is trading. Could be £20 Limited Company. Steer clear. Builders quite often tout for your work on the back of the planning application's. I'd like to see their last couple of job's and speak to the households if it went smoothly. As mentioned above quality of the window's and the budget for them is a big factor in this build, and it needs to be right. I'm very surprised your architects have not provided contact details of their preferred contractor's.

Depends what stain blocker was used in the first place. I use Zinser Bullseye 3-2-1 apply with a foam rad roller, apply 100mm beyond current stain. 3 coats should see it off forever.

Post a photo please

It's often better to spray ceilings for a smooth finish. If you roller walls it makes touching up marks etc easier. I've always used Leyland.

Are these like for like. Same spec? Same company for the bi folds? £25 k does seem cheap for the size and work involved. Where did you find the builder's ?

Should look like this and then lay concrete blocks on their side, plus engineering bricks below ground level

You may get a better deal by contacting some local steel stockholders.

You quoted too cheap. Walk away if the customer thinks your expensive. The customer obviously lives on a parallel universe of fairy dust.

Surely 13 sqm is the whole of the frontage and not just steps and path, as per neighbouring property. ?

But you've currently got a small tree growing in the garden, plus all the existing fence and concrete slabs would need removing. You have to start from scratch with the base and groundwork. Ceramic tiles are not permeable either. You may want to look on London Stones website for some idea's and or get a PROPER landscaping company in to give you some idea's on what's feasible and some costings. I just feel the cost of what your trying to achieve with ceramic is not viable with all other work involved

Wow. There's some ground work and preparation to do there.... plus the original steps?.. All tiled?.

Not sure how a K render base coat will handle block work that has been exposed to the elements for a few years. You may need to ask the manufacturer which base they advise and go from there.

As long as the reviews aren't from "checkatrade" and they have a legitimate website hopefully you'll be OK. Just be very cautious as I find good tradesmen don't need to advertise, don't care about the self praise review culture, and are nearly always found by recommendations from a close friend who's used them and not via Facebook recommendations. Someone in my village recently posted on Facebook asking for someone to clean her gutters and carryout a small roof repair. Within hours she had 57 recommendations!!!

Cut an inspection hole out of the plaster board. Best to do it now while you still in construction mode.

You should try doing a build near Beaconsfield 💰💰💰💰

Not keen on the brick choice. Why is there a brick pier laying on the ground that was obviously not tied into anything and been pushed over?

What was there before the path was installed? Is the property next to a main road? It looks like the kerb stones have been there a number of year's.

Judging by your description of the property, there may not be much competition with other potential buyers as it could be a step too far for lots of people with the amount of work involved. Is the property currently occupied? What's the state of electrics like? Take your rose tinted glasses off as I think minimum refurbishment cost will be 150k. and go north from there. Is the rest of the family as enthusiastic as you ? and are they willing to learn new skills and take on a 3 year project?

Small mistakes with a digger can result in large amounts of extra concrete and muck away if you've no where to loose it.

Sort out a landscaping plan if you haven't done one already.

Get your totals together and take them to your 4 local big builders merchants and ask them to price it. You may get an even better deal if it's a cash account your running and not a credit account. Some times cheaper is not always best. We had lumpy lime and cement, engineering bricks with hair line cracks in them that couldn't be used for garden wall tops, curved creasing tiles mixed with flat ones. etc. For the next stage of the build for the sake of a few hundred pounds I think I'll be using another merchant, who's goods are top quality and the yard staff and delivery drivers take care in handling YOUR expensive materials ( I have plenty of my own hardcore) I don't need them too create more.

Angle bead only goes back 50mm max from the corners. If you get someone that's careful with an angle grinder and can cut straight lines it would be easy to remove. As @nod said put a cement band around the door and window recesses when removed. Scrape the loose paint off the render, let it dry and treat with a sealer primer. You do not have to remove all the render just the area's where the angle beads are that are rusting.

JCH Groundworks would be a good starting point getting them to quote as they also own grab and tipper lorries, so can do muck away and supply agrigates in bulk which you will need for your drainage work etc. I've found the bigger companies to be more competitive than one man band outfits, plus they can supply crushed concrete, road plannings, screened top soil etc at £260 for a 20t load. which a one man band can't as he will need to put his mark up on it, for arranging everything.