twice round the block

Can't you put joints into the RSJ void 200mm, put the insulation between them, plasterboard below and ply sheets above, then flat roof membrane. Is the drawing you've posted correct? I'm not sure why it shows plasterboard above the RSJ.

I think I would be inclined to put new post's in on your side of the fence and put these at a midway point between the existing post's so you don't hit the concrete plugs of the original post's. I'm not sure there is another option due to the heavy duty original post's used, and hence fencing contractors suggesting the same. As for arris rail brackets. Due to your rails being square you would probably have to use a modified joist hanger to get a fixing.

Remove 3 courses of brickwork all round to get back to the level you should be at.

Can't you just set up a couple of trade accounts, so you get the materials in? All depends if you want to manage the renovation and your knowledge level of building and related trades. You buying all the materials from Wickes for your contractors probably won't go down very well. Are you thinking of doing this to try and save money?

@Stubblemonster Have you got openings both ends?

https://abbeypynford.co.uk/products/treesafe/ The above do an engineered footings and slab when building close to tree's

They can't find the plots for the right money. They dont have savings/ disposable income to undertake the project. They don't have take risks. (Done the survey)

Shouldn't the patio be 100mm below the level of the air bricks?

All fencing and groundwork first.

Done the static caravan bit, frozen water, frozen gas, snowed in for 3 days, fire up the JCB to clear the roads to get to the village. Slumming it on the extreme. Only good point is that in the summer you can carry on working for hours and don't have far to go to crash out. Self building is stressful don't add to it.

You probably would have got away with it if you erected Heras fencing and debris netting on that.

Probably got loads of work on and they don't want the job so go in with a high price. If the home owner accepts, you make the job a priority to earn the cream. You would have never have found me doing that sort of thing 🤔, All self employed do it now and again.

As long as a vibrating poker is used while the pour is going on you shouldn't get any voids.

If you tap the plaster with knuckle and it doesn't sound hollow you should be OK just to skim

I'm more interested on how the window reveals will be finished. Could always lead flashing for the top of the stonework.

Did you put in a double concrete beam, or engineering brick footings below that part of the beam and block as part of the original construction to allow for an internal block work wall? If not the answer is no, you can only use stud work as @nod said above. You can't retro fit blockwork walls as an after thought.

So your not going to bed it down on a mortar mix then ?

It's cheaper to buy in agrigates as you need them, than to crush stuff yourself, and end up with a pile of excess that has been stockpiled and is always in the wrong place.

Sorry planning, wrong department. Too many builds on the go, at once, hence the need to keep a PP alive for another 3 years.

@DevilDamo To preserve planning. I did read it correctly and my response was regarding keeping ours live for another 3 years. Nothing to do with building regs.

Looks like the volume of water that is coming down, the down pipe is bouncing off the 90°bend and finding its way past one of the joining fittings and running behind the Staffordshire blue engineering bricks. OR There is a blockage on the pipes outlet just below the slate covering and it's backing up the pipe.

I'm not sure any seller would agree to that. It's down to you to get a full survey done, then take a punt on it if you think it's still viable. To remove large oaks with a climber and ground team is probably £800 per tree, without stump grinding.

We spoke to building control and they we're happy for us just to put the new drain runs in. Obviously every local authority and every application is different on what is acceptable to them. You'll just have to contact them.

Could make for a very expensive project. It's the unknown factor. Specialist tree surveys by a company who knows what there talking about could be of some help, but it's not guaranteed.