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Hi folks Just wondering if it is recommended or not to use an underlay with Howdens LVT? It's going into a new liquid screed, which is quite flat (although I've not measured it, but our tiler commented that is was quite good in another room he tilted). There's UFH too. https://www.howdens.com/joinery/floors/flooring/quick-step-livyn-light-grey-oak-luxury-vinyl-flooring-2105m-pack-sdh3681

I went flush on one I did a couple of months ago after setting the worktop in various positions. It was a comprise between aesthetics, finger access and drips.

I too put UFH in downstairs, and in the hope of not needed heating upstairs. I ran some 10mm pipes just in case we do need rads upstairs. I've been tracking the temperature's for a couple of weeks and finding that upstairs is about 2.5deg lower than downstairs. We've not moved in yet so bar the mvhr there's nothing else running.

Box it in with PIR?

Hi folks Nearing the time to take down the old house. It's 2 story, stone wall with a ridge about 9m high. I'll have it fully stripped inc roof off. Just wondering if a 13t digger would be capable of pushing the walls in safely, or something bigger/ more specialised needed? Thanks

Not doing an airtight test before boarding out. We still got 0.92, but the only major leak we could find was into a service void that was by then fully boarded.

If it's just building control your are worried about why don't you phone them up and ask them?

Anthracite Formaplus on white render any good to you?

Thanks for the replies and advice. There will be someone coming round to comission it at some point soon, was just trying to get it running reasonably in the meantime time. The plates look to be good condition. Still, in my mind something has changed. It ran 'fine' for a couple of months and now is very different. I used to have access to a flue gas analyser when I worked wit gas appliances, but unfortunately not any more and don't see any point buying one.

My gut feel is that the water temps a minor variable in this case, but i could be wrong so might be worth checking. Yes it Ignites straight away. It's a Warmflow BH series. I fired it up in the ground out of the boiler, not too sure if the flame shape is correct or not. The flames seem to lick round the inside of the burner a bit. I expect it would look different inside the boiler. Tomorrow eve hopefully experiment with the plates out.

Not particularly high. The stat on the boiler is graduated 1 to 5, but I guess something like 50 to 60 Deg. I'll get round to measuring it when it will run cleanly.

Hey folks, This weeks fun is trying to sort out the oil boiler. It's a recent but second hand unit. Ran fine for a couple of months then developed thick white smote. Def smoke, not condensate. Was pretty sooted up inside so cleaned it out and replaced the nozzle. Seemed fine for a couple of days but then back to the awful smoke again. I did notice that the baffle plates have only a couple of mil clearance to the inside wall, not sure what that should be? The problems did start during a cold spell so even wondering if theres been some freezing and the heat exchangers been pushed in a little closing the gaps, though there's no obvious frost damage to it or the copper pipes feeding it. (the boiler's installed outside in a galv housing). Giving it more air has no impact, and the oil being delivered to it looks clean. Any thoughts? Thanks

I did get through to superglass the next day. V helpful guy confirmed pretty much everything I thought in terms of in terms of something not being right. They are investigating...

I have a Bosch, GLM 40 I think. V happy with it except I'm on my second one as the first one was dropped and the screen cracked.

Hi folks, About to finish the stairs and wondering about variations in riser height. I might be over thinking this, please let me know! There will be oak treads with carpet over most of their width. If there is no underlay under the carpet on the stairs, but there is on the landing, do I need to compensate for this, otherwise the last step will effectively be higher than the rest? And what if we have a mat on the hall tiles, the first step is effectively shorter. I doubt 1 or 2mm would be noticeable, but would 8 or 10mm? Obviously all risers should be the same height, but to what accuracy? Thanks,

There was a report in one of the self build type mags about 2 years ago warning that HMRC were taking the point of someone moving in as the start of the 3 months. Apparently a few people had their vat claims rejected. Not sure how HMRC were proving occupancy, but one to watch for.

Yes it's superglass. I tried phoning them several times today but no answer...

As much as I love fitting skirting! In fairness, am finding that it maybe doesn't have to be as perfect as I originally aimed for, a few gaps filled and all painted and looks grand.

Hey folks, Today's topic of 'discussion' with our builders is over how they have fitted the loft insulation. They quoted on fitting 400mm of glass wool, to give no worse than 0.12 u value. They fitted 2 layers of '200mm think' which is measuring in total about 250mm to 300mm. Initially said don't worry it'll expand, but 4 weeks later is much the same. They are insistent that the 200mm on the label means 'equivalent of 200mm, and it's a special space saving insulation', but I don't see any such claims anywhere on the packaging... Taking 200mm thick and R of 4.5 you get a thermal conductivity of 0.044, which is nothing special. If the R value is maintained at the reduced thickness then probably all ok, but is that really the case? A quick Google suggests R values diminish as the material is compressed. Thoughts?

I just ran a hose out the front door... Fair point re the antifreeze. Hopefully just running each loop sorts it for you.

I'm about a quarter the way into this job, and have experimented with various techniques. The one I've settled on is to use grab adhesive ( No Nonsense one so far, but have a box of soudal stuff to use as well) and 2.5 X 50mm lost head nails where needed, both masonry and wood. I'm MDF so filling is easy, would do something different if it was stained wood skirting, as per above suggestions.

I have wilo pumps which have an air purging cycle, tho it wouldn't be obvious from looking at the pump. Details were in the instructions. Do you have drains on the manifolds? Running water through the loops (preferably individually) and out the return drain with the circuit supply open should clear any air. I found that much more effective than using the air bleeds on the manifolds.

I'm intrigued by this, did it work well and cope with low velocities/air flows?

Thanks for the replies folks. So the eBay one would need coding? I can deal with taking data from a .csv file fine but just don't have the time right now to get into programming. Tempted tho to buy a couple of raspberry pi's for the future. In the meantime, I've found these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272131903720 Got a couple order to see what they are like.