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Hi folks, anyone any idea on whether there is a way to download all of the on/off events? I can only find the past day's.

Hi Folks The time has come to think about how we convert and insulate our attic. I have lots of glasswool, and not much money so want to use the glasswool as far as possible. My concern is whether the insulation will sag over time, and if it needs support where the blue line is. Possibly 9 or 11mm OSB, chicken wire or 25x50mm battens at 400mm centers?

Thanks for all suggestions. I am now the proud owner of a Shelly 1PM. Up and running, it's a nice device, I can see me getting a few more for various other projects. The way it's wired in, both the pump and boiler are being monitored. I can't seem to get a good resolution on the data to differentiate between them, ie it just gives total power consumption for a period. Guess a little rewiring will be necessary unless there is a way to get it to record on a shorter time base? I've also noted that the on/off times are only displayed for the past day, are these stored and accessible somehow?

Hi folks I am putting down lvt in a kitchen. Just wondering on the best way to lay up to the end of the kitchen units. The gap in the units in the photo is for a dishwasher. Question is, on the right hand side of the end panel what is the best way to finish the lvt? Leave a 5mm gap and then add a strip of something over it? Or raise the end panel up 6mm to get the lvt edge undef it? Thanks

"Because unless the element surface temperature is higher than the water temp, there is no heat transfer." Yes, i gree with that, but surely unless the temperatures are for some reason changing rapidly in the cylinder then the element will have stabilised to the same temp as the water. So any temp increase inside the element will result in the element surface temperature increasing and thus transfer to the water. The energy has to go somewhere.

Yes, true. But to be honest I want to keep it simple and cheap, just to dip my toe in the pv world, can't afford anything else right now. Not sure if there's any meaningful payments fir exports in NI at present.

So simpler to stick to 230v with inverter? Apart from wires fuses etc, is the main hardware just the panels and inverter? I want to dump all of the energy into the dhw so avoid batteries and keep it off grid.

Hi all I am considering a very simple pv set up to help with dhw, and starting from scratch both in terms of hardware and pv knowledge (so lots of basic questions coming up...). I'm just about to start collecting data to determine the power requirements, but I guess a few hundred Watts will be in the ball park. Is it as simple a buying an inverter and a few panels? Should I keep it all extra low voltage and buy a new heating element, or go with inverter and stick with the 230v element in the hot water tank which is currently unused? Can anyone recommend makes/suppilers to go to (or indeed avoid)? Thanks

Don't just do it to keep the BCO contended. A month after our sign off a cloes family member unexpectedly ended up in a wheelchair and it all became relevant. We'd happily followed the regs, and even made all bar one threshold level access, but there were a few additional things we then did to improve accessibility.

7 -15 degs seems rather steep...? 1 in 20 is less than 3 deg.

Thanks for the replies folks. Raspberry pi- id like to experiment with maybe someday, but not right now, still too much pressure to finish off the house I hand wondered about a power meter, would be nice to log (to check for any short cycling) but not essential. I like the Shelly option, will explore that more. And check out Tado as well.

Hi folks I am trying to find a simple (and cheap) way of logging how how much my oil boiler is on. I thought there might be some simple devices available (I've used Elitech for temp data logging, that sort of thing) but am struggling to find something that will record either voltage or current. I'm don't have the time right now to learn how to program the likes of arduino or raspberrypi's. Any suggestions? Thanks

In theory should reduce radiated losses, and taping the joints both longitudinal and where the insulation lengths butt up against each other prevents a small air gap should also help. I dare say would be nearly immeasurable improvement though.

Hi folks Just on the off chance.... anyone ever installed a Wesco pull out laundry bin into a howdens base unit? The depth is specified as 503mm, but the Howdens units measure 490mm deep. Just wondering if its a case of taking the back off the unit, or if just a little cut out is required for the runners. Thanks,

I've no idea, but would a call to your local planning office not give you some idea of feasibility and what would be required, if anything? I'm intrighed by the idea, and am sure there are some interesting challenges to a project like this. How to maintain water level for example, popping a hose in for a hour would hardly make a difference, or do you just rely on the brook? Do keep us posted on how it goes.

OK. Do you mean with an angle grinder or circular saw?

Hi folks I need to cut down a 20mm thick slate hearth. One cut edge will be against a wall at the back once installed, but a cut along a side will be visible so needs to be pretty god. How best to make a nice neat square cut? Can a suitable disc be fitted a circular saw? Thanks

Good evening all, Today we received a letter from HMRC dated 16 June telling us that our claim has been accepted (with no disputes!) and would be paid to us in 10 working days. Great news, but even better the payment was already in and made on the 16th. Sharing this news here to: 1. Let others know the current timescales of claims. We posted ours a few days before the end of April this year, so around 7 or 8 week in total. 2. To say a big thank you to the members of forum for all the great advice shared. I spend more than a couple of evenings browsing past posts and learnt considerably more about the VAT claim process here that anywhere else, and it all paid off. Great job.

Thanks for the replies and advice. There will be cupboard units above and below which largely dictate 600mm, unless I'd shimmed them out. They are now fitted at 600mm. There'll be a vertical board between the two so each appliance will be supported independently on 600mm wide boards with some 50mm angle iron underneath. Power is by two trailing leads, switched from an accessible point. I'll post some photos at some stage.

Free standing. The existing washing machine is 595mm, but it will in due course get replaced.

Hi all, I'm about to start fitting some units in the utility which includes gaps for the washer and dryer (neither purchased yet). Nominally 600mm wide, but is that the normal gap to allow? They will be raised up with drawers cupboards above so will be easiest to make the gap exactly 600mm. Or is that a bit tight? Thanks

Hi folks I've spent some trying to get the garden ready for sowing grass for the lawn. First wit a grading bucket on the digger, then by hand wit a rake. Wondering just how flat it needs to be though? There's plenty of websites that's say get if flat, but I'm yet to find and guidance on what is good enough. I'm not expecting a bowling green, just need something for the kids to run around on. It's never going to be perfect, but If I check with a long straight edge, what is an acceptable variation?

We went for 240mm cavity blown beads, gives a 440mm thick wall. Partially did this as the solid wall in the footings would be exactly 1 block length thick.

I bought one of these, was ok for one house and did the job. https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-eps800-800w-electric-sprayer-240v/559kr

Here's what I did. 125mm of pir was then fitted between the rafters and 60mm under, then the airtight membrane then battens and counter battens (each 22mm). The duct ended mostly 'in' the 60mm pir, on the outside of the membrane.