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How does mounting plasterboard on resilient bars compare to the likes of SM20, genie clips or Techsound? They are certainly much cheaper.

Hi folks. Having last minute rethink over toilet/bath positioning. Would be good hear others opinions. In one arrangement the toilet partially blocks good access to the sink/vanity unit if the latter is a fairly wide one, ie greater than 800mm. In the other the bath is getting rather close to the shower, but doesn't restrict our vanity unit options. What d'you all think?

You could attach more batten to the side of the existing batten.

So am I as well just getting 47 X 200 carcasing (can't find CLS available locally that big) and attaching triangles to it? Will be about half the cost and not much more work.

Thank you all for your replies. @Onoff, yes it will be a proper bathroom TV, suitable for the environment. No bodging planned. I need the power cable in for it now, in the soon to be boarded service void. Won't actually buy a TV until we have the vat claim back, so a fair bit down the line. The transformer will go in a storage cupboard off the landing. The wire I'm putting in will get spliced into the supplied lead. Streaming, What's that? Been at this build so long now can't remember watching TV.... And by the time were finished technology will probably have moved on so far half the stuff I'm putting in will be obsolete....

Hi folks I'd had in mind something like 300mm X 50mm for stringers, but finding that the best I can get locally is 269 X 32mm. Only leaves a min of 126mm once the triangular bits have been cut out. Is that just what is used and ok, or am I right in thinking it's a bit lightweight? Thanks

Hi folks So we're going to have a TV in our bathroom, wall mounted for watching in the bath. Suitable TVs have a low voltage eg 12v supply to them with the transformer in another room/ somewhere safe and dry. I'm about to run the power supply wires, but for spec'ing the wires am wondering what power is required? Can't imagine it would be more than a few amps at 12v, tho it's not something I've ever looked into before. Didn't get very far with a quick internet search, other than pics of what look like laptop power supplies. I have loads of 18awg, is that likely to be ok? Thanks

Hi folks I need to run some 5 core for future central heating controls (pumps, stats valves etc), to go in service voids. Can work out the mm2 , but not too sure what's the correct type, eg. Y Y or a round pvc. For example: https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/2002088-1-0mm-5-core-yy-control-flexible-cable-cut-length-sold-by-the-mtr https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/2326558-3185y-1-0mm-pvc-round-flexible-cable-black-50m-drum

Interesting. I placed an order a few weeks ago and paid by PayPal. German vat was charged, no refunds or import duty. It just arrived 5 days later. Should I have asked to not be charged German vat?

Hi folks Any recommendations for 22mm 2 port valves for use in a fairly standard S plan heating system? Eg, any particular makes to go to, or avoid? Thanks

Thanks for the replies. Cat6 has arrived, just need to get the coax. Is this any good? https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/2412228-rg6-satellite-cable-black-100m-drum I phoned up cef to ask is it solid copper, the guy found some and said yeah looks like copper. Didn't have a data sheet for it so I'm still not too sure about it.

I screen shotted it out of NI building regs.

Got some film and had a play around with it. Tricky enough to do a neat job, assuming your supposed to cover the frames up to the edge of where the plaster will come to? Maybe taping the edges would be better as suggested above. Is the way or do this to pull the film taught across the frames, or push it in to the glazing? Seems like such a simple thing, maybe I'm tired...

Exactly the same predicament we're in right now, electrician starts on Monday, boarding 2 weeks later. Going for recessed spots in our vaulted ceiling (anyone got some nice pics of what they've done?) and will ask electricians to runs wires in straight lines between them to buy us a couple of weeks in case we change our mind on how many to go in, albeit committed to only having them in front of where the wires are.

Just realised there's a dimmable Shelly relay. I'm still at early stages of researching all of this...

Is another option to use Shelly relays to control the lights and have them time based? Cheaper than the Phillips systems, though I do like the way you change the intensity of the Hue lights.

Thinking of fridges and washing machines here, non built in ones. Is it ok to just put a socket on the wall behind them or should I have an isolation switch in a more accessible place, eg above a near by worktop and that isolate the socket? Thanks.

Thanks for the replies. Yes wet plaster. I can hardly remember the full rational behind the ply board, probably to give a solid and airtight base for final boards, which allow me more options in the future. And allows tape on frame to be hidden by final board. Either way it's option 1. as builders have now fitted the boards, lucky enough I was veering towards that anyway. Next question is now the under the headers which have similar detail with the PIR closures. I'm thinking of a 200mm wide tape over the PIR then plasterboard then skimmed.

@Declan52 did you buy direct from Passive House Systems? They're telling me they don't post to NI...

Hi folks Windows are in and now debating how to tape them to the blockwork at the sills. There is to be a ply board fitted, then an aesthetic windowsill board at a later stage. The cavity closure is 100mm thick PIR, width 130mm from frame to inner block skin. Options include: 1. Tape frame to ply, and other 3 sides of ply to blocks 2. Tape membrane to frames and to block work. Need to bring down inside of inner wall. Would need to penetrate for fitting the ply which would be fitted on top of membrane 3. Tape frame to pir, and PIR to blocks. Need to scratch coat top of blocks. 4. Wide tape (200mm) to bridge pir. Also need to scratch coat top of block's. 5. Something else...

£105 for a refill at my local supplier in NI

Well... the builder is organising the render and has also quoted for protection. So i guess I'd be paying extra for it. I take it these films go over the frames and glazing in one go?

Our nice new rationel windows fitted yesterday. Very pleased with them, but paranoid about them getting marked during the rest of the build. Our builder had quoted for applying plastic sheeting to protect them, but considering doing this myself to save several hundred £. Has anyone else done this and/or have any recommendations? Thanks

Thanks Declan, that's good to know. So gonna need a lot of adhesive... I wonder if a parge coat would help reduce the amount needed much.

Hi Declan Roughly how much adhesive did you use per roll of tape? (Or rolls of tape per tube of adhesive).