Vijay

Just a reminder it's on tonight

I can't give any help with the cutting, but if you can't find a solution you're happy with, any way of painting in any of the base showing through?

20 for even cheaper (too cheap?? lol) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20pc-Oscillating-Multi-Tool-Saw-Blades-Set-Carbide-Metal-Blade-For-Dewalt-Makika/373506140564?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20201210111314%26meid%3Dd7a05a42d17a4b368208c06fd0587a99%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpf%26sd%3D363132997917%26itm%3D373506140564%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv9PairwiseUnbiasedWeb&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851

My issue with having SE's drawings and not following them to a T is god forbid there was any issue down the line, who is going to take responsibility if the builder doesn't follow exactly what the SE has stipulated. The SE quite rightly will wash their hands of it and I doubt the builder will want to come back and fix any issues. Looks like you have a big call to make................

Exactly what I was told by suppliers I contacted, as I wanted treatment for them to be left open to the elements for longer, but non did that

I thought I'd read on here that it was standard practise to remove PD on new builds and you had to apply for it back when you've finished.

I have no experience of them but a friend installs alarms for a living, only fits Texecom as he reckons they are the best trouble free alarms

Personally I think speak your mind. It doesn't have to be a rude conversation, but you are paying for a service and you want that service, so you can move on with your project. I wouldn't do it by email as your intentions could get lost..................... My first architect didn't want to work with me after the design stage, I have no doubt she found me difficult. I feel like architects give you the passionate sales pitch, then you become "just one of their clients".

I've wondered about DIY floor screeds after reading posts about high and low spots in professional floor screeds and also the house next to mine had a professional company in to do theirs and were shocked how out it was after they went to fit large floor tiles. Needed a lot of grinding down and filling in. So I wondered if doing the floor DIY but leaving it slightly lower, then using a self levelling compound would work? I don't know if it would bond properly (I assume it would as I surely SLC can go onto a screed?) and I don't know if there would be any issues with UFH...............................................

I had to collect which would probably have affected the price

IIRC I paid a tenner a panel with clips and foot for my used ones

Sadly so many are gonna end up in rescue homes when people go back to their normal lives and realise dogs are such a commitment and can cost a fortune..................... Your friends should definitely look into a rescue dog, I've had 2 and they have been amazing, loving German Shepherds

Nick posted one as low as 25mm and anti slip, so they give me options. I saw this online somewhere, they attached parallel timber/frames on the joists, basically creating a tray for the 18/22 floor panels to sit on, so the new floor was at the height of the existing floor joist, then they put the shower on that. I'm going to ask a probably very stupid question, but do you have to use a former for a walk in shower floor or can you make the fall from timber? I am looking to have the drain along the longer wall of the 1800 x 800 shower area, so I wondered if I created the fall in timber/ply/osb which I then completely tank.

As obvious as it is, the keeping the tiled floor clean never occurred to me. Will have to raise that issue with my Mum now.... If I they did end up with a tray, it would be a non slip one as Nick suggested. Anything used has to be non slip as a priority. Can a tray be sunk so it's level with the floor level?? I guess sealing the joining edge could be an issue.....

I think which ever way I go, getting the waste pipe into place is going to take come working out and work, so fully expecting a headache on that Getting the shower waste outside is gonna be an issue cos of the joist direction. Won't know how to work that until I get some of the flooring up

Do you mean option 2 being on the right? I'm not worried about the work mate, I'll do what ever it takes to give them a safe bathroom they can enjoy using and are safe. I live 5 minutes away now but once my house is watertight, I'm then an hour away, so it needs to be a room for the rest of their lives

@Ferdinand not egocentric at all mate, loads of useful information there and different angles to look at things @AliG you're totally right about the plumbing on the window side, could/would be a total headache. I'm going to get into the loft tomorrow, but I believe access from the ceiling wouldn't be an issue. My Mum is adamant that she doesn't want or like a total wetroom BUT I managed to find a good showroom near me that she could see screens with open access, so she's happy to lose the shower door. She has also seen how nice a tiled level floor can look, so the seed is planted for losing the shower tray and having it flush. The guy in the showroom was very helpful, he agrees with Nick of no less than 1200 for the glass at a minimum, with a 600 opening. This would mean moving the room around again and having the shower on the left where I have 1800. Other thing I'm gonna look at is moving the bathroom door by losing some of the landing opening the bathroom basically into a box shape. If the shower glass screen was fitted and needed to be removed in the future, could that be done? I'm thinking if in the future they needed easier access, by removing the glass it would get them a semi wetroom?? I've done the 2 layouts so I'd really appreciate any thoughts

Maybe they sent you a damaged one as it was just a sample??

depending on what you're pumping, I would probably go to somewhere like Screwfix where you'd get a no quibble exchange if it breaks

Have you looked at the biofuel fire ones?

I've used this in the past https://shop.vitcas.com/vitcas-heatproof-mortar-10kg.html and they'll probably do everything you need https://shop.vitcas.com/products/heat-resistant-materials.html Or you could try this stuff too https://www.toolstation.com/fire-cement/p38992?store=BK&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&gclid=CjwKCAiA9vOABhBfEiwATCi7GPGty09XagmrIofU8n7Gb4XofRaM92-FlJ-29R3vL9ubhYcVIk1eehoCAVcQAvD_BwE You could then try spraying the bricks with a high temp rattle can of spray paint

lol I see why you nicknamed it

Ideally I think having the shower opening at the right (as you looked at the shower enclosure) would be best, the reason being space as you get in/out of the shower. That would mean the shower heads at the window end. The window sill is 1.5 from floor level, so I wondered if the sills (slight slope) and reveals were done properly/watertight, could the shower heads work at that end? In terms of heads, ideally want duel, so one on a rail than can be removed and handheld, then a ceiling one. But to be honest, I think my parents would mostly just use the handheld shower head. That answers another question I pondered, about valve depth if sunken controls. Totally agree it would have to be on the door end or external wall end You are right about the door being a stud wall so anything would be easier to run in that @Ferdinand I have absolutely no idea what you mean by a Hitler trombone???? lol Absolutely what I planned. The toilet seat edge would be approx 400mm from the wall. I've sat on my loo and pondered if that would still work or slightly too far away. At present my Dad uses a frame to get on/off the toilet cos of his knees. I'm not sure a handle would help anyway, he may need to continue using the frame as that allows him to use upper strength to stand straight up. If that was the case, having a space a the side of the toilet for the frame out be better..................... It's an external wall, so I'm sure I could get a good fixing for any handles/rails/supports. I genuinely think if either of them were to become wheelchair bound, the whole house wouldn't suit them. The bathroom is upstairs, so they would surely need a bath/shower room downstairs anyway? I do totally see your point about possibilities and trying to think ahead.................

Guys, really need your thoughts and advice on this bathroom. Had a massive holdup, as had to do some other urgent work on my parents house.............. Here is my first ever attempt on sketchup of a layout I've done and shown my Mum (who has the final say lol) It's given her an idea of how it would look and she's happy. She likes the idea of a shower tray over a wetfloor and also seems sold on a sliding door for the shower (but a fixed panel with flipper/swivel door isn't ruled out) It's been years since I've fitted a shower and things have moved on with tanking needing to be done now. Before I start pulling apart their bathroom and removing the wall (currently between the bathroom and shower), I need to find out a few things. I assume the walls are plastered/rendered under the tiles, so do I need to board them before I tank the walls, or can I tank directly on to walls once I've removed tiles/old adhesive? She likes the idea of wall panels as the finish (if that makes a difference over tiles) but that isn't confirmed as so much is closed and difficult to take her to see panels/tiles. Any ideas/thoughts on how you would place the shower controls and heads (overhead and a handheld). I need to have a seating area within the shower, which will either be a fold down seat or possibly a fixed bench type seat. The shower area will be approx 1600x800. I still like the idea of a remote fixed control for the shower so they can turn it on before getting in, but I know that will depend on the shower they decide on.

good stuff