Nickfromwales

What sort of temperatures can you expect the genny cooling system water to produce? Eg I'd have firstly thought about heating a very big primary TS ( adjacent to the genny ) as an additional heat battery, say 1500-2000 litres, then, when the TS is fully charged, would it be better to glean the heat from the TS and export it to the cylinder in the house or would it be better to use a diverter valve to send the heat directly to a secondary TS or UVC ( via a dedicated coil )? They'd have to be hydraulically separated I assume as the external arrangement would need antifreeze / inhibitor etc.

In about 20 years time, when I laugh and pee myself the same time. 18 till I die, me.

2 pints after work. A nice chillie, followed by 2 buds, chimnea lit and radio on until about 20 mins ago. Bliss.

Bingo.

Hence the buffer

PS you have a split load / dual rcd board? Pic please. Dual rcd board will have a big isolator plus 2 big ( 2 gang ) RCD's. The smaller ones are MCB's ( circuit breakers ). RCD's trip on earth fault, MCB's trip on over current ( overload ) or direct short circuit ( live to earth or live to neutral )

Like dave, I suspect ( if it was a shock ) that the earth may be 'floating' and any juice he picked up ( prob circa 70v ) would have needed a nice clean path to earth to affect him. The metal sofa leg may not be a clean path to earth if it is on rubber feet / wooden floor etc . Could it have been static off the sofa and he touched the plate and the sofa the sane time? That would have given a good crack to his toe and finger.

Most pukka static caravan pipework is done that way as it's fit and forget.

You've done some graft in that room, in fairness mate

Less issues with sag, which is VERY problematic with the smaller bore pipes, but the main advantage is a near zero risk of freezing, or issues relating to partial freezing. Another pro is the the inevitable accumulation of 'sludge / slime' in the bottom of the pipe is nowhere near as problematic in the larger pipe as it would be in 1"&1/2 and 1"&1/4 wastes. At the end of the run, instead of a bend going up use a branch and plug the open horizontal end with a rodding eye. That way you can clean / clear it in no time at all.

For the few extra few bucks, run all the exposed pipe work in 110mm, reducing only after the vertical bend.

Fingers inserted firmly into ears.............

With gas available, I have to ask why not fit a combi, and a small buffer to deal with the Ufh? Dhw in abundance, and zero standing losses from the water production.

Not a football loving bone in my body. I'd rather peel my eyes with a potato peeler. Just fitted a bunch of toilets and urinals in a pub refurb and now off to second fix a kitchen. "Show me the money"

Local merchants ? Sound like schoolboys to me. Get the pipes zipped on, get the slab down, let it dry and bamboo til your eyes fall out. Simples. Peter, you're one away from build hub's first warning

Dettol mound and mildew I use, but tbh prob just 50/50 water/bleach is the same thing at a fraction of the price. Spray on, leave for 5 mins, wipe and relax.

Très bien

Us men are tough guys.

Hi and welcome. Pretty much the old crowd here

Yup, very cheap. If these guys do even a half decent job, you've done well.

bacon rolls go down well.....just saying.......

Only thing that would stop me agreeing with Declan is that the repair may then be too proud in one place. I also don't like the risk of catching the scrim tape and lifting the fibres as if / when you do that your screwed.

Best way ( possibly the only way ) to stop that one will be to sand back through the plaster, around 2" each side, lay a paper ( non perforated ) tape in, such as the dry liners tape, bonding it on with neat pva and allow to fully cure. Prime the area first, generously, with 50/50 pva / water solution to remove the porosity and provide a stable surface When that's all fully cured, apply a 50/50 pva / water solution to the whole area, including the tape, and fill with the Toupret. Allow to dry and sand back. Not an enviable task but I'd be quite sure that would stop the crack. If it doesn't, please come back and delete this .

There no way you can most coat, fill, dry, sand and then completely finish painting in one day so the guy who said they'd be nowhere near finished is taking sense. And your all wrong This is the best filler in the universe. Bird is the word.

New plaster will suck 2 coats up for fun. There should really be at least an hour or two for the first 2 bases to have a chance of skinning over fully before attempting to coat with the third, but this process is quick tbh. Paintwork shouldn't even be considered until ALL the prep is done, eg filling / sanding / cleaning down. You'll never match the sprayed finish with a brush, and even a GOOD roller will struggle, so if these areas are prominent then they need doing FIRST. Prep, THEN paint.