Nickfromwales

Priority trade mate

Check the plumber can get wastes out first. It's a lot easier to re-route cables uphill but you can't do the same with waste pipes.

This isn't about getting it on, it's about getting it off

I offer 2 years and my mates think I'm mental. A roofer NOT offering 10 years or more would be instantly out of the running for me as, let's face it, we'd all expect a roof to last 20+ years. The materials are one thing, but a roof caving in after 3-5 years would need some answers. For such a catastrophic failure it would have to be down to workmanship or a serious failure of the chosen covering, but either way something as fundamental as the roof should have a long ( 10+ years ) warranty....damn right .

http://www.ebuild.co.uk Search under Nuaire as there's already a good bit we've already discussed there.

Nice plot. Get it gone and let's see the digital imagery for the new place. How much bigger, if so, are you going? Just get @MrsRA to practice driving Ian's digger in the locality and it'll be rubble before you know it

Self adhesive foil tape?

Order of controls is :- fused spur time-clock stat zv boiler.

Regarding the pocket that's a schoolboy error. Good to see they've actioned the correction. The 2-port between the cylinder and the boiler is a part of the G3 requirement. The cylinder stat controls the ZV, and the ZV ( orange and grey wires ) control the boiler for demand. One ZV on each flow ( 1 up and 1 down ) will stave off convection circulation, and are of paramount importance. Controlling them is easy. You send the pump feed from the wiring centre to the brown and orange ( linked together ) of the ZV, and the grey connects to the manifold pump live. That way the pump starts only when there's an open water path. Ok with that?

Id like to see that done with a porcelain tile It would go something like "whack, smash, bin". I can't imagine all that banging wouldn't have compromised the integrity of the tile. I wonder if that's how they did it 'in the old days' ?

I'll credit your technical support helpline account

I wouldn't sacrifice any internal space, or inconvenience with noise / sound tbh. Putting the stack outside and making it as neat and as inconspicuous as possible would be my recommendation. Once it's been there for a week, you'll not even notice it. Having the stack run through the living room isn't something I'd want.

Even I'm stuck for words

Got about 5k photos since I started. Thank god it's the digital age.

Yup, looks like an accident waiting to happen. Im particularly fond of the incorrect plumbing of the PRV on the multiblock of the UVC. It comes along to the front t&prv and goes up 10" or so before teeing in above the home made tundish. Whoever signed off that UVC for G3 isn't much of a worrier. Non tres bien.

Shit drill bits

Your right. As long as it's not water based it won't reconstitute the paint / soften it. CT1 will do a good job for small areas. The only problem is in splash zones where moisture can get in around the edges, so beware not to use it excessively ( eg more than just a splash back etc ).

I thought I had a 'problem' with me hoovering out joist voids and the such before boarding up / over. Seems you have had a treasure trove left for you. Never a dull moment eh?

How's that still in there? You've had a combi conversion.

Ahhh, 'tis true. A picture speaks a thousand words.

The paint needs to come off, your tiler is spot on. After removing the paint, you'll need to prime the surfaces with a primer suited to accepting tile adhesive. Try a scouring pad and water to remove the paint. If it's a non vinyl based paint for obliteration it should emulsify and come off quite easily. If it's a vinyl based top coat, you may have to break through it first ( with 40-60 grit sandpaper ) and then try scouring once you've scored it sufficiently.

I wonder if a Pv recharged version would boost your FIT payments? Seriously though, I wouldn't feel happy about owning a hose reel that's more intelligent than me

If renovating for profit then I'd go with the simpler option, and float the floor. I thought it was one where you may be moving in, sorry. I'm a fan of a solid floor, well insulated and no cold breeze blowing under it. If you can get a good bit of wool under there then it'll be fine. Ive done the weyroc over eps option before and it worked really well. I doubled up the weyroc ( 2x 18mm laid at 90o to each other and glued and screwed, and that was raising a garage floor to create an utility / kitchenette with a washing machine and TD in it. Washing machine needed some shoes making to stop it moving about but it was an integrated one.

You'll likely need radiator flow temps in excess of those delivered by Ufh manifolds. You can choose to oversize the radiators to compensate but either option needs proper investigation and the system needs to be able to heat the house when it's bitterly cold and windy outdoors. . Will the Ufh downstairs be over a floating timber floor? What's the intended insulation levels where the Ufh is?

Hose and brush. Then let nature deal with the rest.