Nickfromwales

Looking good. Hoping to start my manshed soon, getting quite jealous of your bats new house .

Will that be wise if it's a ventilated void?

Ventilation heat loss from below the floor will be a big factor. How much space is there between the underside of the joists to the ground? 50mm of cellotex / similar will be quite inadequate imho. Draughtproofing the insulated envelope ( NOT the ventilated void underneath ) will be of paramount importance. Can you not remove and backfill with insulation and concrete / screed?

http://www.ebuild.co.uk/topic/12249-deadly-summer-overheating/page__fromsearch__1

Heat store 938 and a small buffer for Ufh would do you proud . Fill yer boots

With no Pv, I'd try and get away with a Combi. If you deffo go LPG, id recommend a heat store Combi like the Vaillant 938 which is as close to an UVC as you can get without having a cylinder. Heating can be via a buffer in the airing cupboard, and that'll allow your low grade heat to feed off the boiler with ease. How many bathrooms, and what's your DHW requirement? Couple on your own or 3 teenagers?

Reminds you of the last time you came home pissed

Anyone got Andrews email? He's not showing as registered here yet.

Still not a bad height .

I knew we should have patented that concept "This time next year, Rodney, we'll be millionaires".......??????

Tres bien .

Time to put the sheriff badge on me thinks. Say nite nite .

Ok chaps Boots suitably filled, back to business please .

Yup welcome aboard ? Can we politely remind you that this is an open minded forum, so @ProDave is free to do whatever he likes in his spare time.

I'm not familiar with any trend towards radial tbh, other than dedicated circuits like heating control, smokes, alarm etc. Ring main is always our preferred method, but at least 3 rings ( down / up / kitchen ) so not sure about that afaik. Regarding double pole isolation, there is only really a requirement ( or need maybe I should say ) for DP when the appliance is hard wired. If there is a plug and you need to service / replace then you just pull the plug out . Unless you intend to work on something whilst it is connected to the mains then I really can't see the need for DP.

Do the inverters 'lift' in the event of grid electric failure ( aka a power cut ) ?

If that's plasterboard, then it'll be the whole wall if they don't want to come off. Very often, the two won't separate without the surface paper of the PB being damaged / tearing away completely, which will render the board useless. If only minimal break out you'll need to PVA, let it dry, then use a cenentitous ( powder adhesive ) accordingly.

Do you actually need to inform them? Is that done to get a '2-way' meter installed and an agreement for the provider to buy off you and at what rate? Was considering a small array to offset my vampire / parasitic loads throughout the day, fitted flat on my new shed roof, when it gets done . Idea was to add to it over time to increase revenue / run other appliances accordingly.

The one I bought. I found mine ( elsewhere ) on eBay, and contacted the company directly. Saved the eBay fees so it was a bit cheaper and still free delivery. 4 beers is 4 beers whichever way you cut it

No. It will be quite obvious when grouted tbh.

25mm stubs can go with the end feed tee, same as with compression. just solder the tee out of position, clean / file away the excess solder, cut back to required length and Roberts your Mothers Brother. That's what I'd do

Ok. First schollboy error is the tiles on the shower wall should have gone on first. That way, when you look down the tray at that elevation you'll not see the cut, you'd just see tile on tile as the cut and grout line would be to the left, at the end of the run. Not the end of the world. The cuts aren't that bad tbh. Rectified edge porcelain is a bitch to cut, but I totally agree with you that if you ain't got the tools, stay at home. FYI, my Rubi tile cutter ( 900mm scribe and snap ) cost me nearly £400. It cuts like a laser and I often find it difficult to spot which was the cut and which was the factory edge, I shit you not. Rectified edge porcelain is very often damaged in transit. I religiously check all 4 corners of a tile before I stick adhesive on it and lay it. If it looks like it's had a bump ( come out of a pack with damage to the cardboard ) then I'll run my hands over the corners one at a time to see if a chip or splinter is going to come away. If you don't do this then it's going to bite you on the arse as it's easy to lay a few without realising. Fwiw, I've had many jobs where I've had to smash a tile out after I've fitted a duff one. Shit happens. I don't, however, leave them in and try to 'get away' with it. , that's lazy. Any pics of the floor tile / mosaic issues? PS, I don't often use silicone as the vertical finial finish in a prominent corner, I think it looks tacky and scruffy, even the colured ones. The only thing I'll do, ( as stated above to combat movement cracking and guarantee water tightness ), is apply a thin bead of clear CT1 and then finger it in tight as I can get it. I'll then remove the excess with a lint free cloth and some CT1 MultiSolve spray to make sure it's as inconspicuous as possible. It also doesn't 'shine' like silicone does.

Mastic bead aka line of silicone

Sonic sender transmits wirelessly to a receiver in the house. That's why I said add a penalty clause so it costs them not you .

TPRV. Temp and pressure relief valve. D2. Discharge pipe work AFTER the tundish. G3. Certification for sealed hot water systems with volume of 15ltrs or above. Multi block aka control group Focker out. .