Nickfromwales

On my beloved, since sold to buy my first van ?, Yamaha / kef setup I just smiled to myself every time I wound it up. Yamaha DSP A1 ( still got my A2 now as it's pretty hard to get the power ), Kef speakers :- 104.2 front 95.2 ctr 35's front effect 65's rear Mate wouldn't sell me his Velodyne marble sub, but with 110w per channel RMS bi-amped into the 104.2's you couldn't keep your lunch down. Neighbour the other side of the main road asked me once if I'd just watched Black Hawk Down. I said why? She replied "cos the fackin helicopter sounded like it was landing in my back garden". Tres bien.

About as good as it gets

Yup. Colonel custard. You can't have it on show, plus it's a complete bugger to tool up and finish to anywhere near a presentable job. Do all the fundemental sealing with clear CT1 ( or Sitxall Crystal Clear which seems to be the same stuff ) and wipe all the excess off and allow to cure. Then, go over this with the coloured silicone of your choice for the aesthetics. Treat that silicone as sacrificial and just peel off when grotty and reapply new accordingly.

If yours has the dot matrix LCD display, then you should get an icon in the screen to show the state. I'll have a butchers at the MI's later . Never fitted one lol. I'll have a look-see later but I will need the name / model number ?

Ok, did you run a bead of sealant along the shower tray the the outermost edge and down? Not the fundemental upstand seal, another after fitting the wall panels but PRIOR to fitting the enclosure? Next, and this won't be your fault, it'll be the shit instructions from the B&Q stuff, did you run a bead of clear from the outside of the tray, up the outside of the chrome profile where the horizontal and vertical intersect, and then a bead of clear about another 100mm or so up the glass panel, where it meets the vertical profile? Next question, did you apply clear to the rear of the wall profile prior to fitting? As everyone else has said, no sealant on the inside, other than the vertical wall profile sorry. The instructions usually do say this . Capillary action draws splashing water into the friction joint between the wall profile and the enclosure profile, the ones screwed after fitting together, and that water drops straight down. When it gets to the bottom it needs to be able to drain out, inwards into the tray. You've stopped that from happening with the internal horizontal bead you applied. Lets go from there, but you'll now need a plastic tool and some CT1 Multisolve spray to remove and clean the Sikaflex. Not an enviable task I'm afraid.

With 1 bar dynamic at 20l / min you would really be better off with a mains pressurised DHW solution. Pumps wear out, are noisy, and aren't exactly great when they're working as you have to segregate the different systems eg pumps for baths and showers but nothing else . Relocate the cylinder to the utility, or better still the airing cupboard so you can make use of the otherwise wasted heat loss. The home your describing isn't going to be 'low energy' so I doubt an ashp would ever be an economical option tbh, so best to decide that now as it would completely change the advice you get / design remit. It would be unsuitable for space heating via rads, unless they were oversized accordingly, which would take up valuable space. Ashp's only work well ( efficiently ) at low flow temps so unless you were VERY well insulated and reasonable airtight your heat losses will make that not a viable option. Future addition of Pv will always be easily integrated with either a TS or an UVC, so the only thing I'd add to that now would be to ensure you have at least one immersion heater. UVC or TS ? A TS would give you a single cylinder solution, and, if fed by a suitably sized gas boiler, would give you nigh-on constant DHW. With an UVC and Ufh you'd also be looking for a buffer to compliment that arrangement, so more space taken up, more losses and more complexity. An UVC also needs to recharge between depletion so needs to be sized slightly larger to cope. A TS typically has higher standing losses due to its higher set temp, so I'd invest the ashp money in the Pv and use that to heat the cylinder and offset the losses. If your deffo going for Pv then I'd say go for a hot return circuit too to give more convenience eg getting hot water out of the taps almost instantly, which would also negate part / totally re-plumbing to suit the new cylinder. If the cylinder would end up central to the bathrooms it may not be necessary but that can be decided after working out what your decision are so far.

Not a problem if the slope in the floor extends beyond the defined shower area that the glass covers. That's when you need a "true wetroom" where you can pour a bucket of water in the middle of the room and nothing gets to the doorway.

Same with you J, which model?

@TheMitchells. What make and model boiler do you have?

None of the larger low-profile trays drain completely. You will get pools, but shouldn't be bigger than a 50p or so.

Well, I don't want to say get some bloody pics.....but..... "GET SOME BLOODY PICS !!"

Just the remnants of the last flush Shirley. Chillax to the max ??

Clear CT1 won't go shitty like stinking silicone does. Not sealing the glass to the wall is going to bite you on the arse, I promise you. Splashing water will go through and also be attracted by the brackets....grot will be the least of your problems. . The wall channels harbour zero grot so where's your thinking coming from regarding that? For eg, the current bathroom job I'm on is pergamon off white tiles with jasmine grout. House is £1.2M worth and they'll not be accepting grot either. CT1 is the dogs bollocks and with light regular cleaning stays almost like new, unlike silicone. It also doesn't flake, tear and rub away like silicone does.

Twat! Just spat half a can of Fanta over myself PMSL x4 Ps, moi? PC, PMSL x5

Cool. Thought I was off the Xmas card list there for a mo. ??

Too much ?

Did you have Stevie Wonder Electrical fit them ?!? You could have cut them neater with a chainsaw. . Is that the 6w one? Can you fit the 9w one so it fills the existing hole, or is that one of many in the same view?

Probably the condensate and the blow off aka PRV. Blow off is fine, condensate discharging onto the ground near your foundations is not good at all.

Nope. Crack on. ?

Yup. It's disgusting, but totally avoidable in a new build . DIY heros usually thrive on it, but not everyone owns a multitool, the tool of all tools. Cue Tina Turners 'Your simply the best' coupled with a standing ovation for the guy ( ) who invented it.

This is a shot of the laminate, slid underneath the linings which were undercut as @PeterW mentioned. Off cut of flooring and underlay with the blade of the multitool sat on that. No 'awkward' cuts here chief. Arch's and skirts go on afterwards. ? In the flats I'm building, we've done :- Studs linings PB Skim Mist coat paint ( sprayed ) ? Arch's Flooring Final paint ( by hand ) ?

That's what I / my guys always do, as by the stage that your flooring the door linings are usually already fitted so you can PB to them and skim ( so floors aren't damaged by splats etc ). Not life or death, but 'part of the process'. Are you doing the linings yourself? If so then there's nothing wrong with doing them after flooring, just you need to be spot on with the cuts and the heads need to be level. It may even be easier for you that way, but I'd assumed the linings were in by now ?

Lose the rubber insert . I use these bad boys .

I would have 'liked' that, but only if you'd gone all solvent weld

Nope. The lip covers the hole, giving some surface area for the solvent to have something to have some contact with. The lip has to be bigger than the hole you made or it'll fall through. The seat, which goes into the hole to centralise the boss is not on view. . They may not be the technical names as I just made those up to make me sound clever ?