Nickfromwales

Interesting

If your buying a mixer tap it'll likely be supplied with 10mm x 1/2" flexis. Hold off buying anything until you get the tap. Do you have a combi / UVC?

Only any good if its just your feet thats getting fatter

Plumbing not too shabby lol. Question : Why have you got a P-shaped bath in a room with a separate shower?

@kaba Why not something like this ? A skilled fitter would be able to chamfer the 1850 down to meet your sloping ceiling. Way better than a hinged door in a tight space, and you can leave the doors open to dry out after showering without compromising the room / circulation space. PS nice tiles

Automated deadbolts sound appropriate and if you have aux relays in the existing box you may be able to use a second button on the fob to control them. What is it you wish to protect ? Car or garage contents. ? Typical thieves will use a bottle / trolley jack with forks to lift the middle of the door so they'll do shitloads of damage first anyway, before realising there are secondary measures in place. Lose lose situation. Do you have a side door ? If so they'll hit THAT first anyhoo.

@Barney12 This one any good ? Also without mirror chrome you don't get a view of yourself peeing. ??

The good news is they get serviced from the front. The control knob cover rings come off and then the square faceplate slides over them and off. Two inlet filters usually and then the thermostatic cartridge screw out for cleaning / replacement. Check if the one you buy has non return valves built in, for prevention of back flow ( but more importantly CROSS flow aka mixing ) as you'll need to fit en external inline one locally otherwise.

They're so cheap it's a no brainer to buy two so you have one ready for spares. I have an even cheaper one, and it's in its 3rd year of service with just a little degradation of the thermostatic control. Still works fine but the hot / cold dial has to be turned slightly further to get the same temp as it did when I first fitted it. May just need cleaning / servicing. If your burying this into the tiled wall then buying a spare is sensible IMO.

Ask them to put "one in the bank". You square them up when your next flush with dollars and they've helped you out.

How DARE you Its a specialist trade you know

Legends

I only bond ( with foam ) where the board edges join as you cant get screws both directions on every joint when overboarding. Use a plasterboard lift or home made stilt to keep the board up tight whilst the foam goes off or it'll bow as the foam pushes outwards.

Well try and think of someone else won't you please ? While your enjoying all that insulation some of us will be in terrible pain trying to lift heavy glasses full of ale with their baddy arm .

You need to find out what adhesive the layers will use to see if they'll react to each other. I don't see you needing to do much more than mastic all around the wall / ply junctions to seal up the gaps. Sealing the vinyl to the wall afterwards is a no brainer. Will there be skirtings sitting on this junction or tiles / other ?

Yuk No wood where it needs to be on show, get it overboarded. By the time you've typed this you'd be on your second or third board and closer to the pub ?

Yup. You need to ventilate a service void to have a gas pipe in it. What I would do is run a 25mm PVC conduit from the attic down to the top of the skirting say 10mm past it and plug the top with foam. Leave that there as a duct and you can either drop a 15mm pipe ( overkill ) or what I'd do, drop a 10mm pipe down if when required as that'll be ample. This assumes a <7kw appliance which won't need a vent iirc and also therefore won't need a big gas supply. I doubt a GSR'd fitter would want to connect to a buried pipe that's been DIY'd unless you've got photos, lots of, and he / she doesn't deem it at risk. Just fit the straight run of conduit and get on with your life . Remember that gas regs and legislation change. The duct is a future proof solution imo.

Don't over do it.

Jesus. Good luck pal

@Construction Channel Ed, totally agree with losing the rodding point as that shower trap is what I referred to as 'open', so iechyd da! What I would do though is swap it to the other run so you can rod as far as the bath tee. I think you suggested that above ? Access from the basin end really isn't necessary imo, but please do use 40mm pipe from the 50mm bath tee all the way to the bend that faces the basin trap. Into that bend you fit a 40x30mm internal reducer and then the only 32mm waste pipe is that short horizontal bit to the trap. Fit and forget. The fitting on the shower traps are always a pita. It offsets down so you don't have the knuckle of the fitting touching the underside of the floor covering which levels with the flange. You need a 40x50mm compression reducer to go on that trap and do away with the bit you show. That should work just fine, or you may need to use 1x 40mm 45 and then an M&F ( street ) 45 to get the offset back. Rodding through two 45's is no problem at all. This straight off the trap, and then this to correct back to straight and turn the lot to give whatever offset you need. Or if you want to get to solvent quicker before you bump up to 50mm, put the male side of this into the compression 45 and then a piece of 40mm waste, then a 40x50 offset reducer into a 50mm coupler and away to the stack. Hard to say from the pics if you'll need the offset or not tbh.

To add, you need BR involvement and sign-off to give the work any recognisable value too. Any new works may be questioned by a potential future buyer, and if they catch a whiff of you DIY'ing the works they'll either ask for it to be discounted from the valuation or covered by indemnity. Start as you mean to go on.

Can we stick to the facts only please

I still think, even with an acceptable degradation ( whether it be purely by cycle, or both cycle and life combined ), the degradation / lifecycle is still very economical vs the available alternatives. No multiple components failure like you suffer with gas boilers, or maintenance, other than a failure of the immersion to deal with so 'cheap motoring' AFAIC. Add to that no flue / ducting to outside etc etc, plus with the 3rd gen theres no integral pumps / additional wet plate heat exchangers / flow switches / TMV's / control wiring etc etc there's very little to go wrong. These are very impressive bits of kit

That could be a decider

The 20mm worktops are bloody flimsy imo ( laminate over chipboard ). Just fitted my mates as a favour and not great for the 960mm brekky bar tbh. Ok if supported by units but a bridge to far if unsupported imo. Had to bond 5mm SS plates to the underside with Sikaflex to beef the brekky bar up. A PITA. Looked nice though. My only concern with the 12,5mm stuff is how do you do the joints in the corners?