Nickfromwales

Looks like we have a fight on our hands. Floor tiles first where I went to school As this is a wet room the wall tiles need to be scribed to the floor as I dont like the idea of water running down a wall and into a grout line, whereas I'd rather water was running past a grout line, which you get if you tile the wall last. Plus one of my nit-picks is 'grout line PoV' where you shouldn't be looking at a grout line in the corners. For eg if you stand in the doorway of the bathroom, the wall opposite you should be tiled first, and then the two walls that run to meet it on the left and right hand side will look as if tile just meets tile. It should only be apparent theres a grout joint if you stand directly in front of that opposite wall and look left or right, where you'll be looking at the last cut tile and the grout line to close it into the corner. When I show customers that at the end of the job, and other little basic considerations, they remark on the difference it makes. Same with the floor. if you tile the floor last then all around the room you'll be looking down at the grout line, whereas you should, imo, be looking down past the grout line and directly at the floor tile, again appearing as if the tile hits the floor. Simply set the laser up at the chosen height of the first horizontal wall tile grout line and get set to cut the entire room bottom course ( dry cutting for the moment ). Then you simply turn the tile around, so the face is against the wall that its to go on, and check that its sat snug to the floor tile. It matters that the tile is NOT brought plumb as you want the scribe to be included. With the tile firmly against the wall and the floor you then simply mark the left and right side of the tile where the laser hits it. Carry the marks around to the front of the tile and then cut it. Offer the tile back to the wall the right way around with the cut side against the floor and bingo. A perfectly level cut line which follows the undulations of the floor tile with the scribe done for you by the laser. Like shooting fish in a barrel.

Get out of the hot tub and start tiling Top effort, so I'm off to the fridge for my humble pie ( Asda melt in the middle with double cream is as close as I can get ). Tres bien Rodney. ??

Dude.... Sweeeeeeet.

Sunday morning just got shot out of the water

Prob is when you go to claim. They send out some guy with a thin magnet, like a tiny business card, and if it sticks to the pipework and indicates high waterborne ferrous content they'll refuse you. Every two years you could buy a brand new combi for one property. Put the money in a bank account by standing order and pay a plumber a callout fee if it ever goes wrong ? When was the last time you claimed ?

When he sobers up we can get a translation

It'll look the dogs bollocks mate.

Keep it off your skin. If you get a welly full, take them straight off. Lol. Immortalised here, your first proper typos

A grand a year! How much value have you had from that so far ?

Servicing a boiler doesn't mean it's safe. A gas safety certificate can be generated ( £40 initial plus £10 per additional appliance eg £50 if a boiler is the only gas burning appliance £60 if there's a gas hob etc etc ) so I think you need to be more specific. Changing the oil and filter on your car says nothing about whether the brakes are knackered or not . If your saying change of £250 my guy could come from Swansea to do it and still make money !?!

Were putting more effort into this thread than the average mass builder puts into quality control. They just use good painters as thats the bit people get to see.

It is......The cost of having to do the remaining properties to a reasonable / acceptable standard so they pass

Happy days. Thanks.

Son of a bitch. Just searched the fantastic "any borehole experts out there" thread and it's gone along with EB thanks to Helmut Von Fackenface. How does the wayback stuff work ?

??

At the VERY minimum he'd have to touch my "special place". And that's just to be granted the rights to ask. No guarantee I will lend it implied.

Problem is, NOBODY uses my worn-in trowel. NOBODY.

It's only when you got to polish up that you'll see the problems with a trowel that has sharp, straight corners. If you want a proper trowel go nick the BiL's one ?

Not sure wtf that's about TBH. The outcome of using the same trowel every day as a spread will be the edges feather out and BECOME very sharp. If it's been suggested to attain that before skimming then that's duff advice. A 1.5mm stainless steel ruler will slice you if you run it hard and fast enough across bare skin, so the mention of a plastering trowel slicing you is common knowledge. A ready rubbed trowel will slice pigs into bacon so this is probably a very pointless chat. Bottom line, be careful as the trowel will be sharp. Simple.

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Yup. There have been some pre-final production changes for the better. Now a far more comprehensive range of products.

Can't you use a genny until the plot gets developed and then just pay 1/6th of the cost when it, inevitably, gets done? The owner of the other plots may be purposefully avoiding you so you do the brunt of the work, so beware of that.

The beauty of TF. Talley 'hup, and there it is. Bingo ! Nice plot.

+1. Pre cut everything before glueing up as this stuff starts curing as soon as it gets out of the tube. Use a very damp cloth to wet the plywood prior to offering things up as this stuff is moisture cure.

If you have the accumulator in the house then it'll sit at the ambient temperature, so for eg 18oC + which means that if you dont plumb the house with a separate dedicated cold mains to the kitchen sink / other drinking outlet then you'll never get a cold glass of water from the tap as it'll always be tepid at best. For me, when I open the cold tap to make squash etc I want to run it and for it to go cold, ok if youve got a chiller in the fridge or a boiling / chilled tap, but not ideal if you dont plan on either. All installs are case-specific so each to their own, but I always recommend putting the accumulator in a garage or at least outside the heated envelope to keep the cold mains 'cold'. You can do a separate feed from the main to the kitchen sink, but it causes all sorts of conflicts with un-blanacing the supplies at mixer taps, and is also not really a practical option if you need a softener.