Nickfromwales

Playing a dangerous game if you don't stick to the spec to the letter. Its not that important though, it's only holding your house up after all . Very easy to rectify after too. . Get them to change it now. Simples.

Ah, yes. Just remembered the pipe is corrugated so will have a higher resistance. .

Don't recognise that tbh, but there's so many of them it's hard to keep track. Cheap enough on eBay for a no name bar mixer. For tonight, two ballofixes and a spray handset on the end. Bit of balancing and away you go.

The back to wall kits are in SFx. Link

Does antifreeze evaporate if open to atmosphere ? I'm not trying to

It's a thing of beauty.

This looks to have a sprinkler head that is maybe 3/8" or 1/2". Connect that via a flexi to a non return valve and an isolation valve. Most solar thermal control groups have these so you pump in and it's trapped by the NRV much like a combi. Drill powered pumps can be used but are a bit messy to use.

No it's not. Only G3 ( potable water ) requires you to go D1/D2 with tun-dish to regs. This is primary heating water so no problem at all. You can have the PRV outside, or do what most do and just have the PRV 'blow off' into the empty 10/15L antifreeze container. The volume of expanded water in a sealed system pumped up to 1.0 bar will be a few pints. Id go sealed and pressurised, header tanks are antiques. Can you mount a PRV inside the ASHP chassis ?

Ask them about pricing the gas and nails the same time as a bulk order .

It's primarily for lubricating soil pipe fittings when connecting up underground stuff so shouldn't impact on that trac pipe at all. Gaffa tape the draw rope to the trac pipe first, before even opening the pot, because once you touch that pot, EVERYTHING becomes very very slippery . How long is the run? 28mm is a big pipe.

Silicone grease.

It does work with brass, but you need the copper or stainless insert to keep the pipe from collapsing. Plasson and others make such good universal / push-fit fittings I don't think there's any need any more to risk a brass on MDPE connection ever again. I don't like them btw. As for inserts, as long as the insert pushes in far enough and it's a very snug fit, but not tight enough that it needs to be forced or hit in, then they're much of a muchness IMO.

Why? I've never heard that before.

Put them in the marketplace . Pinot tokens .

Nope, he most deffo WAS a cock of the highest disorder. Typo......PMSL. .

With a combi all your hot and cold pipework would be in 15mm. Upgrading later would require larger bore pipework, or tees cut into the 15mm supplies at the max load point and larger bore pipework taking to the A/C now ready / in anticipation. Are you saying PV may feature later on ? If no then why waste time and spend money future proofing that far ahead ? At the most I'd run the cold feed to the combi VIA the A/C so a Sunamp could be fitted for preheating the DHW cold feed to the combi. That's one pipe and one 13a fused spur.

Can we assume no PV, or would you like some solutions based on Combi - UFH - PV ? Just so I don't derail this .

An off-steer, but.... Oversize the ASHP when you know the local climate will put you into defrost cycles? From what info I've gathered here, space heating wouldn't necessarily put you into the realms of 'over-working' and frost, but definitely a subject I will follow with interest. Seems matching demand with the HP is what to avoid, and running DHW temps seems to be mostly what's problematic as the HP will be driving harder for longer. Multi-faceted as always, as size of HP and load will be a major factor, along with the micro-climate.

I caught @PeterW trying to smuggle it out in his y-fronts. @ProDave will have to use latex gloves whilst disinfecting it. . I only kept it to save peters shame. Its here next to me right now, strangely it seems to be attracting a lot of flies.

Crossed with Peter.

Another little gem for you. I'd never fit the frame on rubber as it may promote movement. The frame needs to be in rock solid, so I would say that was a bum steer afaic. Acoustic insulation, lots of it, in the ceiling void below will deal with 'noise', but TBH the better made stuff is pretty quiet, and I've fitted scores of them. Some frames com with an acoustic gasket that goes between the pan and the tiled wall, but I bin them as they do very little for noise and stop you getting the pan bonded back to the tiles. If you don't routinely climb a step ladder and pee into the middle of the water then noise relative to the toilet is not a cause of concern, just use the acoustic insulation all round / below and you'll be fine.

The one I've got looks BNIB, complete with bag of cable clamps, screws etc

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Ok ? PM me and @newhome with your address and I'll send the one Ive got after the weekend.

I don't have a hour to lose on marketing drivvle, but good that the vid covered some basics for you. I've been fitting 'continental' stuff for decades and no complaints yet. Purchasing through the likes of Megabad sees lots of nice Hans Grohe / Grohe / Duravit / Geberit stuff in your bathroom for not much money. Ebay can turn up some bargains too, so up to you what you want to achieve TBH.