Nickfromwales

Internet bullying at its finest.

Thats what happens when you drink warm beer

Nope, the other end of him is in the passive litter tray Thats the look a cat has when its thinking "good luck with that....see you in an hour, im off out for the dust to settle".

Yes, you do get those..... Hey, you could always cut out the middle section....bit of perimeter insulation...... Job for 2021?

Especially for when you find half of the cat inside and the other half outside. ACME Kitty-snipper 2000 Mk1 ....."every home should have one" lol.

PMSL. "Kids....say NO to drugs!" Still laughing.......

Most people who re-model a kitchen would change the flooring as they'd not then compliment each other. Agree it'd be ok on the premise that someone said "thats the floor for life", but id say I've done less than 5 jobs where the floor has stayed. Country cottage maybe the exception, but after that..... nada. Cant plonk a new cup on and old saucer, me old china mug

No, Swansea me! Yes, in whatever guise that takes. As you have PV you must remember that either cylinder may routinely max out at the immersion set temp, eg 60-65oC for an UVC or 75-80oC for a TS, so would be a heat loss issue either way. "Higher standing losses over an UVC"? Not necessarily, if you consider you have a bunch of additional connective pipework between the heat source and the boiler buffer tank, plus the additional surface area of the buffer. That lot on top of the UVC would equal that of a TS imo, but you'd only suffer THOSE particular losses during the months that the heating is required, and when not required that peripheral tank and pipework fall dormant. Then your just back to the losses of the UVC, so remember that the heating losses of the peripherals with that setup would be advantageous, eg go towards your heating needs, and the tanks could be placed strategically to make the best use of that, eg UVC in the airing cupboard and the buffer in the cupboard under the stairs with the UFH manifold @JSHarris's TS was a different beast. That TS was an open-pipe aka gravity 'combination store' which has a feed and expansion tank ( cistern ) at the top of it which is open to atmosphere ( bar a plastic lid to stop excessive dust ingress etc ). When fully heated you can literally remove the lid and swish your hand around in warm water. Jeremy primarily chose that as it made 100% sure he dodged any certification schemes or annual 3rd party maintenance plus no D1 / D2 discharge, but it still required an overflow from the cistern. The combination tanks have much more latent losses than a sealed and pressurised equivalent tank as they ( the equivalent ) are not open to atmosphere and don't suffer steam evaporation / associated convected losses at all. NOTE : ANY SYSTEM WILL STILL NEED TO BE INSPECTED REGULARLY, FOR SAFE RELIABLE OPERATION. With, for eg, a gas install but no G3, you could simply ask your annual gas service agent to encompass the basic additional system checks within a slightly elevated gas service / inspection fee perhaps, or you can inspect it yourself. They should be on board with that as they will likely be the ones who carried out the install . If DIY is favoured, eg no gas, get your system installer to put a couple of additional pressure / temp gauges in key locations so you can just monitor the important ones, PRedV still correctly operating being one, at a glance. All you need then is a clipboard to remind you what to check and to record your findings. Simples. All pointers that you could happily cope with an UVC and gas can recharge it quickly enough TBH. Id only recommend the TS if your DHW remit was more 'aggressive'. Size is important, so with you having PV to fortify DHW / offset losses id go for a 300-350L UVC. When thats satisfied id set a PV diverter to dump excess into the buffer via a second immersion so any excess gains in the heating seasons goes into space heating. A buffer volume of 120L would be my recommendation, and remember you can have that as a horizontal vessel on a cradle if it helps to tuck it in somewhere. I'd only revert to a TS here if you simply don't have the space for two cylinders, but you should also be aware that a TS will ultimately have around the same, or possibly less, losses as the UVC + buffer option so don't get hung up over that. Bear in mind that those losses are only problematic if they exceed the fabric / ventilation heat loss of the space that they reside in Other than that, they'll go towards your heating requirements / clothes airing needs. Just consider the satisfaction of sliding on your favourite pair of brown and cream Y-fronts when they're toasty warm........ Dont you eat in the winter? People from Kent are very strange....... Go LPG for cooking and fit an ASHP? PV will boost DHW and offset the juice the HP uses. Bet you wish I hadn't just said that eh ?

Not approx, but circa £4k + ( reclaimable ) VAT iirc. Ill add more tomorrow.

Hi and welcome aboard

Exactamunnnnnndo! Why throw good money under a kitchen?

Hmmm....I used a 32mm wood bit and a multitool. Was pressure tested and I was still in the pub by 6

Would a jigsaw not have been middle ground ?

Ah. Just saw the problem...... Have to look twice.

Bugger....he's chasing me for that pint

Keeps me off the streets Thats quite low so a good unit, but more is merrier for best short-cycling mitigation. I'm still correlating information from various manufacturers and installers ( tech and on-site technicians ) to dig up the gold, and the dirt, on ASHP installs as I was as green as Wimbledon on anything HP when I first joined this forum. . Its still sinking in TBH. My point about going ASHP > PHE still stands, its not possible unless theres a buffer inline with at least 50-60L of volume, 90L or more would be preferable. Then around we go again

Already looked at that but its not possible. There would not be enough primary HP ( A/F ) volume to support it so the only way to go ASHP > PHE is if you fit a buffer A low loss header wouldn't suffice either. 'Tis a sticky wicket this one.

You took the words right out of my mouth. In @Visti's case, I'd have the screed shuttered out a bit and set the tray so it's 15mm proud of the finished floor covering. That creates an almost sunken look to the tray and removes almost all of the lip, so nigh-on level entry. A good way to create a sleek look, minimum effort and guaranteed results.

Works for me !

Don't say it's abandoned, just build the garage and simply "press pause"?

All work and no play eh besides, we did get there for grub at gone 9pm and it was essentially a business lunch with a valued client

Don't fit the LGB. Sell / return it before it's too late. The rest of the kit should work in great harmony.

Price is V good. Can you find out how much forca fully loaded 600L please. ? Ta.

If it's tiles then get some, lay them on the floor overnight and then stand gently on them barefoot the following day when they're acclimatised.

Has it all been fitted yet ? It's pretty much what I suggested to @readiescards when he was considering going off-grid. I suggested using the residual heat from a diesel genny as additional input instead of ST. Also suggested an LGB but where do you stop ? Complexity, maintenance, constant babysitting and capital cost shot it out of the water.