Nickfromwales

It’ll be far more sympathetic, add value, and serve the intended purpose properly. Let us know if you put planning in and are successful, and we’ll talk you through the next steps

A light sand / media blast would bring that back to life

We used to call it cosy wrap. https://www.bes.co.uk/flat-pipe-wrap-12658/

That’s a piss-you-off!! CT1 will get that watertight temporary, if you need to keep using it. Just need to dry it out with a hairdryer and clean it before applying.

You’re driving me to drink Mike….

I’d be happy to roll the dice, if it’s not the only 2 houses within a few hundred yards.

From experience, with MBC ph offerings, MVHR ’may’ just get you by if you leave it at max wallop for purge. That’s if it’s used to prevent vs cure btw. At anything less, it’s no dice I’m sorry. One in Dorset was just stuck at 24/25°C and even with a Chinese heat pump MVHR with active cooling, the ‘occupant’ moaned to me that the cheap option she selected, against my advice, was useless. I’d recommend that you power up the roof lights and use the controls to trigger these to crack themselves open at say 22°, with rain sensors to close them etc etc. The automated purge from those, in your absence, may be the difference between a stinking hot house to an ok one; manual opening roof lights needs you to be there to manipulate them. Don’t think for one minute that this is in any way a) practical or b) possible in real life. My planning for clients is aimed at the residence being at an acceptable ambient by the time they retire of an evening, vs solutions which compromise life after the heads hit the pillow. One of the absolute joys of having a cellulose blown 300mm wall and 400mm roof, with MBC twin wall, is the sheer graveyard silence it brings. Having roof lights open in bedrooms at night would do my head in tbh, same annoyance I get when staying in hot hotel rooms with roof lights, and the result is a poor nights sleep.

This.

Not if it turns out cheaper and faster than prepping and re-covering with xyz. Especially if you’re still on shaky ground as to whether that’s then still robust.

SLC is friable, so won’t last 5 mins.

Microcement, or maybe ask a good grinding / polishing company to sample one small room and see what results that yields. Prep for adding layers to this will need to be robust, and would probably need some amount of grinding. The hope would be, to grind and area and see if it looks ok, then if so repeat throughout.

BCO may not sign you off with a DIY solution. Plus, you’d be interfering with the structural integrity of the beam, so would need prior approval from both SE and BCO. I like both other options, so as ever this is down to the decision maker in the house 👀.

Just “no”. Stop! This is fine, and will outlast you without issue. Put the sub-miniature spirit level into your missus handbag, and tell her, under no circumstances, is she to give it back to you. Turn the bathroom light off, and get to the fridge for a cold beer. Facts: The velocity of the flush water will take MrHankey and everything else out clear and past that connector, with absolute ease. Relax, fit it all in as per, and switch off. I’ve seen these going uphill 50mm and still no issue. And they’ve been in student digs etc getting a proper hammering. For insurance, when you’ve pooped, use the press and hold to completely empty all water from the cistern; that’s if you want to…..but I genuinely doubt you need to.

If they’re cheap leds then you may need a snubber (capacitor) across the feed to the lights. Do the leds only glow when the fan is running, and then go out when the overrun time has elapsed?

Leave it close to the window, get signed off, then push a Durgo AAV into the top of the then shortened SVP, so it no longer vents. It just needs to be higher than the pan of the 2nd floor WC, by around 200mm Do you have another SVP on the house elsewhere? The neighbouring properties with vents to atmosphere will be suffice for venting the network sewers, you’ll not have any negative effect from ‘capping’ the SVP with an air admittance valve. Make sure it’s an outdoor rated one though.

Ah. I thought this was off the decking, eg a fire pit / other! New specs needed….. May have some allowance given the distance from the house, but agreed, it should be higher. The installer should have said, or the neighbours should have appreciated, that this would become a huge nuisance to you as their neighbours (both sides). Time to knock the door and ask them to rectify, eg you provide an opportunity for them to sort this without enforcement by planning / HETAS / council etc. Tell them the air in your house is now being contaminated and it poses a serious health and safety risk to your son and yourselves. Don’t mince your words or be ‘too nice’ as they’ll likely take the piss out of you thinking you’ll go away.

Standard tile adhesive had been mentioned earlier on, so best to reiterate this needs to be flexible tile adhesive for best results and to provide some decoupling.

Yup. +1 to this. Excellent leverage!

You’d need an 1100mm tray minimum, so a drop down seat can go at the shower end. The valve and riser rail need to be in front of the user when they’re sat down, with the riser rail at half height in the room. I fit extra long hoses, and a second ‘holster’ up high so an able-bodied person can enjoy a shower in there too, or your new visitor can use it standing up whilst they’re still possibly able to do so. Needs to be a sliding door or hinged to open outwards, not an infold, to cover you against someone taking a tumble and holding the door shut. Single storey small side extension would seem less damaging to the look of the house, and be far more practical. All depends on the age of the person, level of mobility, and if their situation will worsen over time. A grant may be made available to you or to them so ask CAB for advice on this, to maybe offset the builders costs.

Prob best to add that the mag filter should be upstream of the strainer, to capture as much crud as possible before it blocks the much lower capacity strainer ‘sieve’. Also ask (whoever) to fit a mag filter which has a drain point at the bottom (a-la the TF1); it was annoying as feck to have to siphon out the water in an Adey Magnaclean to dump in some inhibitor this week. The client had a new WB boiler fitted, so the one above was requisite for warranty. Note that is an Adey one (mass produced for WB most prob) but has a vent on top and a drain off at the bottom. The Magnaclean had just the vent at the top which was quite annoying. More annoying was the valves on the Magnaclean wept slightly when in the off position. @canalsiderenovation, I’d go for a TF1, but the biggest plus here is when the system needs dosing again. You just turn off the valves either side of the filter, put a bowl under the filter and open the drain to empty out. You remove the magnetic cartridge and clean it, then put it back in, remembering to check you closed the drain off properly (1/4 turn like the filling loop ). You can then self administer the additional glycol by pouring it into the empty filter vessel. Close the lid, open the two isolators back up, vent the filter with a radiator key, and get your arses to the pub. No plumber needed. When the dust settles, give me a nudge here and I’ll add more details of a few things you can do to make self checking and self maintenance a breeze. In the meantime, shake the shit out of their quote, and ask for them to resolve the noise issue before a single penny gets even considered to be heading to them. Personally, I’d tell them to FO based on time lost, inconvenience based on their incompetency, and the fact they’ve cured one issue and caused another. I stand on my previous statements……these lot wouldn’t have stepped back over my threshold. Stunk of “useless tossers” from day 1, sorry . Here you go. https://fernox.com/product/tf1-sigma-hp-filter/

Makes the house feel much bigger when there’s usable outdoor space such as this. Looks a million dollars and very neat work. Did you clad the steels with wood / other?

You’re not supposed to use a 13a FCU for a constant 3kw device such as an immersion. You’re supposed to have a 16a breaker and a 20a DP switch as an isolator.

I tried this once, and it was a total flop. The flow just bypasses across the top couple of rungs, and buggers back off upstairs. I had to re-pipe it (I did this with surface mounted chrome plated copper pipe with chrome compression fittings, and it looked ‘not terrible’) and sent flow and return to the bottom of the rad to make it work properly. Vertical or column rads are a pita to get to function properly, towel rads even more so. You could try using a dip pipe, bonding it the the valve stem internal bore to push the flow to the bottom of the rad, if you are competent DIY’r and don’t mind taking a risk.

Sounds like you found a good builder, with a broader than usual skill set Happy days.

Too isolated an event to change the world methinks I’ve fitted a gazillion concealed showers, and the worst thing that’s happened has been the thermostatic cartridges need changing, which you do with the valve in situ from the front. I am a big fan of Grohe iBox’s, and the spares and support will be around for decades. I do like the simplistic approach of the digital showers, but having control boxes mounted remotely with electronics and mechanical gubbings, which do go kaput and need servicing / maintaining, is sometimes not practicable. Digital a good solution if you need pumped off gravity hot and cold water.