Nickfromwales

You never asked for your 1hr free consultancy

Get the ruffled ones looking as good as you can, but don’t get lost in micro-detail here. You’ll likely look at them twice a year, if that.

Straightening these out with weight, and using something uniform (like the 5x2 timber weighted down) is the only cure for the others. Swapping out the least amount of the damaged unit is obvs the way forward, and then to weigh and bond that down then too. Once these are bonded down well, this issue will be gone forever.

You don’t have to fix the upstand with a dry S&C screed, as the installers just flick a few shoots of mix against it and it pins it perfectly in place. The issue of it lifting slightly, and the screed going under it, is very real, so to remove unnecessary risk it’s always good practice to fix it so it stays down and in full contact with the insulation or sub-floor.

Remember to get these tight into every corner as the curves and divots all need filling / foaming / cutting back etc afterwards; if you’ve not managed this by prevention, then it’s a LOT of time and effort to get these filled and made airtight with foam / passive purple / AT tapes et-al. Put lots of time and effort into getting these filled foam strips put in as tight as you can. I cut and stop / start where it’s easier than forming a turn with continuous strip. Zero detriment when you stop / start, just tape over the joint.

Sorry, I meant the dry sand and cement screed. The perimeter insulation is the same stuff from anywhere, just the colour changes. The differences are: height, does it have a polythene apron (for liquid), does it have a self adhesive strip on the back or not. Ok. If it’s a poured aka liquid screed then you’ll be best off getting the foam skirting with the attached poly apron / membrane. Self adhesive strip helps to just lay this out, but cannot really be relied on, so you’d end up with some kind of additional, mechanical fixing (staple / round head nail). Does the Clockwork screed company operate near you? They’ve just poured cementitious self levelling screed at my Manchester project, and they were the best poured liquid screeders I have seen to date. And we’re not the most expensive quote too! https://www.clockworkscreed.co.uk With nobody EVER wanting to do this twice, or to have to revisit it, I’d defo get these guys in. They mix and pour from one super wagon. A very impressive setup.

My preferred choice as my mate gets these traditional screeds perfectly flat and level every single time. Plus, he can manipulate levels for sliders etc which is a lot harder to do with wet concrete or liquid screeds.

That’s one heck of a wobble! These are original floors?

Just use staples or short clout nails.

2 sides contacting, or 3?

@junglejim, if you need to bump a thread, just post in that original one and it’ll jump to the top of the “unread content” list for everyone to see it again .

I’m on a job where the roofer installed 9 units, same type of skirt on a concrete tile. Consensus was to bond them down with clear CT1 vs use the poxy little self adhesive strip that Fakro thought would be storm proof…… The roofer pumped a load of goop under them, not so much that the CT1 oozed out and became visible, and used lengths of 5x2 with weight on those to hold everything flat and tidy whilst the goop cured. Afaic your fitters should have bonded these down, as you don’t need to be Einstein to see those stood no chance of staying in place by their own merit. The one that’s broken off you’ll need to replace, then bond that down also.

Nothing wrong with ACO’s etc at the above openings, that’s what they’re for! I’m currently helping a client model the openings for their new MBC PH TF, so I’ve suggested a minimum change of levels vs completely flat and defo sensible to be below DPC; mostly for melting snow and leaf litter etc vs rain. We’re going to allow ~20/25mm for the sliders, which should be ample to prevent ingress and not enough to be an inconvenience to step up / down / over, but for the front door it’ll likely be bang on level for access. For the back door off the utility, this will likely stay as a full ~150mm step. No attached garage, but if it was then I’d go level and bond down a proper storm / bump strip. The ACO’s can run near flat for quite a distance, you just choose the deeper profiles, or make a French drain under a decorative shallower ACO. Then you just make large holes in the troughs of the drain, every 1000-1500mm or so, to let the water drop down and out and soak away. You can also direct the upper ACO’s at raised sections into lower ones, but in difficult ground that doesn’t promote great percolation, you’d just put more rainwater gulleys in and have the ACO’s connect directly to those.

I don’t plaster where I’m going to be tiling, ever. Waste of money afaic, and tanking loves to stick to plasterboard, and so does tile adhesive.

I prefer my fish with chips 😋

Would have been a much worse score if that was open!? Plus the AB team look for 'major faux pas' before testing. An open chimney would have not passed grade, I am sure.

Lowest point gets a drian / gulley, and then ACO's drain down into those. Run the ACO's as far / long as you need to.

That's prob been there longer than I've been alive, and will likely outlive me. Take a measurement across the depth, and check in one years time.

Go get 'em, tiger!!!!!!!

? You mean a tanking membrane? Why bother, and just buy liquid tanking kit(s) and keep brushing it on in opposite directions until you are happy. Bombproof, and the joints get done with the strips or a roll that come with the kits: LINK

Can I just have some money for the heck of it?

Where was their rationale for the 2x potable (white) vessels needing changing?? Bloody nonsense. At (only) 5 years old they should be fine! Unusual to see two on the hot water, but I always add extra volume on all of my installs, simply as a good measure; you can't have too much expansion afaic. Does the UVC ever heat off the immersion, routinely, as that can seriously over-exert the expansion vessel(s), off solar PV divert etc maybe? If off the ASHP only then these should be living a very easy life, and last a fecking long time. Defo kick these lot to the kerb, and get a new plumber who actually gives a shit.

Yup. But they probably don’t check the oil in the car either, then moan when a £4k bill lands to fix it.

🤣

If it’s in an isolated space, or on another floor, then it is advantageous if it can run on longer, or fire up sooner, but I wonder then if you’d defo need a decent sized volumiser to allow that to run independently. Heating or cooling would need to be ‘on’ for the main heating system, for a fan coil to toggle in / out, so I guess it’s down to how the system is run and configured.