Nickfromwales

Bird is the word?

Mr Bean style might have worked. Bucket full of tiles, adhesive and boom ?! Job done. Leave for 48 hrs and grout it with a mallet ?

DJ ‘Scratchinmynuttsack’ rides again. “Put your hands in the air if the cream worked” ?

.....of getting your nails and hair done ✌️

In a nutshell. But if you don’t need to cut to connect and test then you could just coil the slack, zip tie and leave them as is. Nope. They’ll kink in a wink of an eye as that’s too much point pressure. Just for general compression I’m thinking but good for first fix if no water / other means of testing after install.

.....I thought to myself, as I instructed my man to cut the excess tail off a coil of Wunda UFH pipe. He cut some more, the noise got much worse. What’s going on ?!? We hadn’t hooked it up yet so a leak was impossible.......and then I twigged. The good folk at Wunda now sell the coils of UFH pipe pressurised with compressed air, and when I say pressurised, I mean pressurised. If you cut straight through you’d better be holding both pieces as it’s like stabbing a car tire ( probably ). They must have it close to 6 or more bar guessing by just how much air came out of a 100m coil. I then noticed the pipe ends. They’ve basically got plastic plugs glued / crimped into each end to keep the pressure up and keep any crud out, and I assume this pre-pressurising benefits in a couple of ways. Wunda know the pipe is sound at dispatch, you know it’s sound when you get it, and if dopy gits with long screws or multi tools inadvertently damage the pipe after installation / floors down etc there will be an undeniable “whoosh” of compressed air to let them know. Can’t help thinking that would also be of benefit during Ufh at the slab stage too as the pipe is likely to be a bit less susceptible to compression perhaps. Folly, or first class. ?

Neither of you used the word 'tool' though. ?

Son of a...... The dual system is what I’ve been looking for, for hot + hot return ( 22mm+15mm or 15mm + 10mm etc ) in the same insulated runs. Even if it’s expensive it’ll make a cheap alternative to lagging 250m of 15mm by hand You can get a lot done in a day with that stuff. ? Cheers.

Never heard of it. Wassat?

Ive got a drum of 6.0 ( 50m ) and a drum of 2.5 ( 100m ). Wonder what they’d fetch ?

Cheers. Going to need a couple of hundred metres of it soon. Anyone got a heads up on ready ( pre ) insulated 15mm & 10mm ? Found a supplier and asked for a price on 250 / 500m breaks but I think I’m too little a fish to catch their interest.

Just had a quote for a client for £8200 for a split East /South array iirc 5.7kWp. Solar edge inverter ( 12 year warranty ) and optimisation included, plus costs include extending each panel cable to a central attic space for optimisers, and then dropping to the garage to the inverter. So could be a bit cheaper for a less bespoke install. All black in roof panels btw. 25 year life expectancy ( warrantied ) with the panels. PM if you want details ?

Yup. It won’t use much energy but will make the system far more user friendly. I wouldn’t like to spend on a new system but then have to wait for the hot water to come out of the taps. Youll thank me later ( or send me the bill for the pump lol ).

Order of events; 1) incoming cold main 2) stopcock immediately as it rises 3) double check NRV 4) drain off cock ( DOC ) 5) outside tap 6) PRedV 7) wadevayalikefromthere FYI SA is good for 10 bar but recommendation is a PRedV set at 5-6bar, but most softeners need 4-5bar restriction anyway. Read the MIs of the chosen softener for the correct rating

Cheeky fu.... Its pasty’s or nowt ✌️

Instant solution and within budget Bingo.

Oh, and why the PRedV ?

If you haven’t got an accumulator then don’t worry about doubling back from the ends of the manifolds to feed both ends, that was only for Uber high flow rates Instead, just put the higher flow items nearer the input side eg bath - shower 1 - shower 2 - kitchen sink - basin 1 - basin 2 and so on. ?

Tequila time.

Hi and welcome. You'd be into a heat pump of some type TBH, but I wonder if you'd be better off using a free standing domestic air conditioner and fitting the hot air exhaust to the flexible duct that goes to atmosphere ( so you can get rid of the nuisance heat created by cooling ). Those ducts could be disconnected, extended and fitted to a free standing unit with ease. To clarify, I'm not suggesting fitting the cooled air outlet of the air con unit to the room ducts, just the hot air exhaust, and then simply leave the air con unit cool centrally. Open the windows just a crack and allow trickle airflow outward as that should promote a bit of airflow through the dwelling.

Ok. The one that will burn it like fire is vomit. My daughter threw up over my beautiful travertine and it near destroyed it, in the few minutes it was there before I could stop heaving long enough to clean it up . Remind me why we had 4 kids Pee all over it all day long, its fine, but dont puke over it whatever you do. You heard it here first folks !

It makes no difference tbh. If the person laying the concrete is also paid the likely costs expected from the secondary liquid screed layers, then when combined you can likely afford the best concrete flooring company around ( so they'll get it nice and flat ) The question is a bit perverse as to fear the person doing the concrete incorrectly means you have no confidence in their capability, so dont use them and just pay once to a single contractor to do the concrete properly first as last. You really dont want a 150mm slab, as 100mm is typical, but IMO 120mm would give a nice storage heater for a dwelling thats inhabited ( or needs to be at temperature ) most of the 24 hrs in the average day. Easier to keep warm and a bit more heat capacity to see the ASHP's only consuming off-peak electricity out of sunlight ( PV ) hours eg at night with the slab acting as a buffer.

Best to warm the manifold with a blended HRC circuit imo, and remember it can be timed so not running 24/7. For one client I have designed the HRC to switch on and off in line with the burglar alarm so when armed ( out or sleeping ) the HRC shuts off. Make sure the cold feeds to the kitchen / utility / baths / showers are done in 15mm NOT 10mm. They’ll struggle in 10mm. You only want 10mm to ( optional ) the WCs and the hot taps on basins / sinks. Oops lol. ?

With 2x12kW PCM58's you'll have about 27kWh of heat capacity and 6kW of electrical input so as long as your peak space heating demand doesn't exceed the 6kW then you'll be fine. DHW will come from the redundant capacity that will reside in the units, when they're fully charged. I imagine they're both 'eDual' units, so basically both units can lend either space heating or DHW to each other for maximum ( combined ) effect. I doubt you'll go wrong with that setup unless your in a draughty 1980's build with single glazing. For the kitchen run, can you not chase a pipe into the floor and insulate it? Then your as the crow flies and will reduce that run significantly. With that kind of flow rate and pressure you could easily run the kitchen hot feed in 10mm for even more reduction in 'delay to tap', plus its a no brainer to dos the same with all the other hot feeds to basins / sinks. Get over the extra 1 fitting each end of the run, but TBH if you shop clever you can even reduce that. 10mm x 1/2" male straight to the Flexi . "Just do it man !" All other cold feeds to be 15mm All other hot feeds to be 15mm On that basis, the plan seems a good one to me. The reason for a HRC pump on even that small a setup is because the manifold introduces a primary pipework arrangement which needs to be all 22mm, eg from the SA units to the manifolds, then the manifolds themselves are 3/4", and then the small bore 'distribution' pipework starts from there. You otherwise must factor in having to discharge all of that 'dead leg' of DHW prior to it getting out of the desired outlet so think twice about a HRC as it does make a big difference. Eg to run the upstairs basin and get hot water the water must travel out of the secondary SA unit ( the heat exchanger will be hot already as the SA's are instant water heaters ) and go through the interconnecting 22mm pipework prior to the manifold, and then through the manifold, before the reduction in the distribution pipework has a chance to carry out its intended function ( to reduce the volume of water two discharge before getting premium temperature water from the chosen outlet ). At the least, and as a start point, I'd fit a Grundfos Comfort HRC pump to simply circulate between the SA's and the manifold, so the primary arrangement was always 'at temp' and ready to deliver. Remember that having great pressure and flow will be of little consequence at the basins as you wont be able to run them very fast without getting splashing water everywhere ( if that was assumed in an attempt to discharge the dead leg ). Basins exaggerate the problem because typically they are outlets which are used 'little and often' and therefore anything even slightly excessive lengths in the preceding pipe run can see you washing your hands before hot water has arrived. The Grundfos Comfort is a very energy efficient pump so is not quite the 'extravagance' that some may see it as. Compare a house that has it to one that doesn't and you'll soon warm to it.

He's close to sticking them on. Good enough for me. ?