Nickfromwales

Dropping an entire floor in small bore waste pipe is a no-no afaic. Major issues with siphon effect so I avoid at all costs. Norm would be to run horizontally to a snow box and use that as an air break. Not possible if you have to get grey water to the FW network but fine for combined sewers. Strap on or boss socket into the 110mm every day of the week for me and I’ve been doing this for nearly two and a half decades.

If the fault had just started occurring then you have an issue to deal with. Find what’s caused the problem or wait for it to get much worse.

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Hi and welcome to the madhouse.

Probably going to look at it afresh, and accept that its all or FECK all. In for a penny.......Always best to strive to meet or exceed the standards set by those before you ?

These are what I normally fit for bathrooms.

It only does that until the DHW tank is fully charged. You then decide whether or not to continue using the HP for space heating. I've configured one of these to accept heat input from a pair of 9/58 eHeat ( SA TS's basically ) and thats input via the solar thermal coil in the 185 tank. All the time there's solar ( PV ) gain eg heat energy available from the SA's the 185 never kicks the HP in to recharge the DHW cylinder. The PV diversion device will also check in with the 1kW immersion in the 185 for overspill after the SA's are charged. That arrangement always sees that the 185 cylinder metabolism is healthy ( eg SA's don't provide DHW only heat transfer via primary water so the 185 can never stagnate ) and should leave the HP to be dedicated to space heating where necessary. Ok, so as you want a HP are you having a slab and wet UFH as the primary means of providing space heating?

Howdy. I want to fit a log gasification boiler in a garage. The garage is akin to a basement, offset to the right and one floor down from the entry level of the dwelling. If the appliance goes to the left rear corner I can rise vertically and bolt onto the side of the gable, rising accordingly to clear the ridge draught. Problem is, the garage roof is the right hand 'garden' of the house ! I haven't had a look as to whether its already leaky, but needless to say I need to meet or exceed its current state if I make a penetration through it. Im assuming B&B with ( water proof ? ) concrete over-pour as this is an existing turn of the century cottage. The garage, I think, is an afterthought as it looks to be built off the side of the house ( which is elevated 9' higher than street level ) but if original what would it have been ? Was reinforced concrete formwork around back in the day? So. Concrete core drill or series of holes and punch through to make the hole, then what? Sleeve and 'grout' with a waterproof slurry? back-fill with a resinous HR material ?Then take the flue through the sleeve with an intumescent seal and rain deflector ring? First time I've ever had to punch through a living roof, so any pointers would be appreciated. Take me now lord! Cheers.

Best effective in summer bypass mode, but if you've got PV you'll have DHW sorted anyway. Plus this is a bloody expensive bit of kit!! North of £8k iirc. In a PH I cant help thinking the money would be better spent on a stand alone MVHR system and separate DHW storage device. Get an MVHR with a small HP inside for summer cooling if thats a part of your remit. Jesus, I'm only on my second cup of coffee and I'm already confused lol.

Strange a stainless buffer has a Magnesium ( sacrificial ) anode pocket? Knee-jerk from the manufacturer and just left blanked off ? Just had a look and IMO not a bad little cylinder. The 'baffle' arrangement that some "innovative" cylinders manufacturers fit inside is what has got @PeterW spooked, but in this instance they are just referring to the cylinder being what we guys call a 'bubble-top' tank. The vent at the top gets blanked off to capture air in the upper section of the vessel, and the volume is dictated by the next lowest tapping where any excess air ( beyond the stated 15L ) gets to escape and be vented by a bottle vent. Downside is, a bubble-top often needs emptying and refilling to reset the trapped expansion air volume so I routinely avoid that arrangement. If you check with this seller, you should find you can fit an automatic air vent to the top of the cylinder and fill it entirely to 60L volume and fit an external dedicated expansion vessel. Thats what I would do. You'll be fine with this cylinder and id go for the bigger volume as 50L ( and 60L tbh ) is borderline. Personally I'd go for at least 90 L due to the mix of heat emitters, 120 L would be better suited. Try and locate the buffer where it can be useful wasted heat eg the airing cupboard. Have you not considered a TS to do both buffer and DHW ( via an instantaneous internal hot water coil ) ?

Hi and welcome. Do some more maths with the 185 as I think you’ll struggle with it if you plan using it alone for space heating. The Genevex seems good at first glance, producing DHW as a biproduct of the mvhr doing its normal job, but remember that when you continuously remove heat energy from the extract air you don’t have anything left to put back into the house so you’ll be in deficit, particularly important in a house of ~200m2. Are you planning UFH or other space heating ? I’d really look at separating the two ( space heating and DHW ) as it’s much easier to tackle each individually imo. PV ? More info please !!

I will personally attend site and take a hammer to it if you put a dangly light in your shower vs a spot. ?

Looks really neat and clean ( lines ) even with the rustic look of the internal doors. Cant help but feel warmed by a nice bit of real wood.

Penetrations into any aspect of the frame, either inside or out of the airtight later can easily be executed to maintain such integrity. Weight shouldn’t be an issue as you have 5m to make fixings into the frame from either side. Eg 5m and fixing every 300nm would give you 16 brackets each side. You could hang a car off that. Your only concerns here should be the ability and integrity of the person(s) you choose to undertake this work. Ask for a ‘method statement’ and see how they plan to mitigate.

Mats if it’s a relatively square / rectangular space with little or no obstruction, and wire if it’s more complex so you can fill each area and move onto the next.

No buffer tank there, it would be another cylinder around 1/3 of the size of the hot water tank. The boiler will do the job, but a buffer would have taken a lot of short cycling out of the duty of the boiler. At the moment the boiler will be permanently ‘lit’ and just occasionally ramping up before going into tick-over, and will repeat that 24/7 when your asking for heating via any of the controls. Order of events should be; boiler fires flat out and heats the buffer tank. Boiler goes off. Ufh pumps draw small amounts of heat off as required tank eventually cools down and it’s stat calls for a top up from the boiler back to the top and repeat. All the the time the buffer is satisfied the boiler fan / pump / gas valve etc is sat idle. Which model exactly is it I’ll have a look at the MIs later.

No need whatsoever. A horseshoe of clear CT1 behind the face plate a-la the tile adhesive will be belt n braces enough. Itll need to be splashing water-proof not watertight so panic yea not.

Not a fan of the left / right split option tbh. The 2-way switching up / down hall > landing should be set up so if the downstairs goes you still get the landing light, and if the upstairs goes you still have the hallway light. Could be done the left / right method too, just my assumption is always upstairs lights off, use a plug in table lamp. Same downstairs with standard or table lamps. It’s a lot easier to spot an entire fooor has ‘gone dark’ imo. in a larger house with small kids / elderly you can retro fit a 3-hour battery backup to pretty much any light fitting for a few £10’s and they can be in key ( communal ) areas to suit. I often put an ‘emergency’ light next to the fuse board in domestic rewires, and routine if the CU is in a garage or outbuilding

Is the an existing wet UFH system there already to tag on to ? If not, just fit electric as it’s quick n easy. Wet will be a huge capital expenditure and upheaval in comparison and won’t lend itself to a gas system that doesn’t have a buffer tank.

So basically you use them as switches and rely on an unified flow temp

Yup. Whichever value is the lowest. Frost setting should be a definable parameter so can be different but is typically 7oC.

Agree. Normally the high limit stat is directly on the manifold flow. If the flow temp gets over 50oC for eg then the stat contacts break. The manifold pump is fed via those contacts. Very strange to have floor sensors, @lizzie can you have a squint at the MIs to see if you can deselect them in the programming. ? Go on, you can’t break it lol.

To be getting meaningful hearing input, all of the ( utilised ) zone lights need to be on on the control box and that will show ‘call for heat’ aka demand from each zone. A single zone ( eg one stat controlling a large area ) can be multiple actuators all operating from the one demand. Not all wiring centres are fully utilised eg you may have to buy and 8-way cry to connect 5 zones, so 6,7 & 8 will be redundant. Turn all the stats down to zero and wait 10 mins, then turn one up to max. See if, after 10 mins or less, a zone light lights on the ctr and heat can be felt in one or more pipes. If they can, make a note of which pipes get warm ( which actuators can be seen to be open ( blue indicator ? )) and switch everything back to zero. Leave the system cool down for an hour or so and repeat with the next room stat leaving the previously tested one off. Spend a day on it for your own sanity and then when lazy bollocks eventually turns up you can be better informed and not so easily fobbed off. PS, ring him today and tell him he has 5 working days to attend site. Inform him that if he fails to attend then you will pay another plumber to check his work and rectify and he shall have the bill. Guys proper taking the piss. Stop being so nice and give him a deadline. Beware that if other trades have adjusted anything that we can’t idebtify here he may play the ‘not my fault’ card, possibly with merit, so let’s get through as much here as we can. This could simply be the loops airlocked and that the system wasn’t commissioned properly. We’re you about when the system was filled with water and tested ? They should have connected a hose to a drain from the UFH manifold and used cold mains pressure to blast each loop through. If that wasn’t done and it was left to purge itself then that’s wrong and you’ll likely have airlocks.

Rotary mechanical room thermostats are not at all suitable for UFH and give terrible over / undershoot. The digital controls are king for UFH as otherwise you have no idea of what temp you’ve selected or what temp the room is currently at. The cruder the controls, the worse the performance.

Grout will save the day. Looking good so far. ?