Nickfromwales

Toilet seats are fitted from the top with captive fittings so no need to remove the pan to change those either.

Not for a leak I said If the pan gets damaged then that's about the only reason you'd need to remove it.

Either or.... Sikaflex is quite unpleasant to remove at a later date, but will give a better grab. Truth is you don't need any more grab than the CT1 provides so up to you.

When the curtains are turning into poppadum's, its time to apply the brakes

How many showers running at the same time? What's your cold mains like? ( static pressure and litres per minute flow rate ).

………….moving SWIFTLY on...………….

Right. The pan is not 600mm wide, so what is the actual bow over the ~360-380mm width of the pan? Not really. The foam will compress in the middle and not at the outer edges, so will be worse than the CT1 as it'll have zero 'grab' as its not an adhesive. Basically you'll be giving the pan something to move on. Dry fit the pan, get it level, and then mask up the tiles and the pan. Loosen the fixings so you have a 5mm gap all round the pan, pump in the CT1 and then re-fit. When you tighten up you'll see the excess CT1 being displaced, and when the centre section stops displacing it you're good to go. Make sure the pan is not off centre or pointing 'in either direction' and then set about clearing off the excess with wipes, then de-mask, and then a final wipe up so there is a gap left for white silicone to be applied as a cosmetic finish ( after the CT1 has fully cured ). Once the CT1 has gone off, the thicker layers at the far left and right will have gone solid and will be creating a fix between the pan and the tiles, vs the foam gasket which would be doing neither.

Soil pipe is pretty much bombproof. I have been plumbing for over 23 years and cannot recall any more than a couple of leaking joints in all that time. @Onoff used the solvent weld fittings as he didn't want the knuckle showing proud of the stud framework and after cleaning and solvent welding with gap filler ( totally bombproof ) he pooped his pants and smeared CT1 over the joints ( pointless tbh, but it made him happy so I didn't say anything ) and then leak tested it. Just imagine how many soil systems are connected and then buried / boxed-in every day, and then you'll realise its a storm in a teacup. The stuff is fit and forget unless you're a very bad plumber ( eg not a plumber at all ) I've lost count of how many bathrooms I've done, and not had one leak EVER...….and trust me, a leak on that type of pipe is noticeable REAL soon ?

Agreed, and a very important point to reiterate. Not everyone achieves perfection, but anything above the usual Uk BRegs is a welcome improvement tbh.

Just be slow and careful, and use the wipes for clean up

The temp delivered by the ASHP is dictated at the point of commissioning, so if your using more energy at the mo then it wouldn’t be unreasonable to see the ASHP running more than normal. If it’s performing ‘admirably’ at all other times then I’d not worry. What does it do in ‘better’ weather ?

Definitely. Can’t be too sure eh ? ?? 15-20 years and @Onoff may be free to tile it for you......... Disclaimer :- “may”

Just to the most you'll ever see, so if 23 was producing the desired output then you're done. TBH after 2 years I doubt if it'll make a blind bit of difference as that's pretty much 'cured' now for sure.

Flow temp of the manifold is a critical bit of info here. Need to find out if the ASHP is getting useful heat to the manifold and then the manifold is conveying that to the UFH loops. Does your manifold have temp gauges? If not can you get 'baby head' thermometer strips and fix them on to get a yardstick? UFH needs surprisingly little to get it all warmed through, so how thick is your slab?

That's what I would do. Must say, its all coming together nicely . Yes to the silicone around the spots, not grease. Silicone would clean off no problem if needed, whereas the grease will just end up doing nowt. 5 LEDs across the front is 'spot' on.

Oh dear...….. I wonder where he thought the hot water was coming from, if he thought that was for UFH

Yup. Or if not, can you take it to a drain by dropping down the outside wall? If the drains are combined ( foul and rain ) then you could go and tap into the downpipe with a snow box.

You've never lived...…

Glad I couldn’t afford it ?

Yup. OCD / ADHD whatever. Brain decides to start going through lists and the frame has to get up with it. My oldest is the same. I wonder where he gets it from ?? One of those is regular, and the other ( more expensive ) is flexible. If it’s UFH or porcelain tiles then it’s flexible every time. Regular only if it’s a dumb slab and ceramic tiles.

Shouldn't that be 'I think I might have to grout'? Still not sure what gout is, but hopefully massively reducing my intake of beer and not wolfing steaks down will remove some risk.

Another option to extend the site of an AAV is to reduce from the 110mm to 2 x 50mm runs, or 4 x 32mm runs and route the groups of smaller bore pipes where the 110mm cannot be run. Create the opposite adaptation at the AAV end to get back to 110mm and fit the 110mm AAV there. You only need a 34 mm cavity for that.

If you have vented the TP then no need whatsoever for rising vents to atmosphere. I suspect your designer has done that because they would look terrible if they stopped a metre up from the branch and had AAV's on them. As to burying in the concrete core, I imagine that would require your concrete section to be thicker there to compensate, unless, possibly, you went to galvanised steel with a decent thickness wall. You can reduce the size of the rising SVP to 80mm if there is only one WC connected, so you'd likely need to do a drop for each WC to get the smaller diameter, ( if that would help swing it with the SE ). Not something we can answer here I'm afraid. As for specifying alternate routes for the stacks, its all a bit hopeless without sectional drawings to see what obstacles lay in the way of other routes. All academic without those. Make sure the bath run is done in 50mm not 40mm as the run is excessively long for a bath to discharge. With 50mm you'll get an air break, with 40 probably not. Can be mitigated against by carrying the 40mm past the bath trap and up to the attic and fitting a 50mm AAV. Also, using the 50mm would mean you could connect all the baths / showers / basins into one single run, subject to fitting an AAV at the end of the run as aforementioned. An anti-syphon trap on the basin would be preferable with the smaller bore SVP's should you end up going that route.

Tape the ends of the pipes with cheap electricians insulating tape to stop any crap getting into the pipes as you work them through the build. The outside diameter of the pipe is critical for getting the o-ring in the fittings to seal well, so if you drag the pipe and create a linear scratch along its length expect to get problems later on in the second fix. The o-ring squeezes onto the outside, so water would happily track along any linear imperfection. I cringe when I see plumbers yanking it through tight holes in timber joists.

@joe90 On a dry dusty floor I always mop the whole floor first with 25/75 flexi primer/water until saturated. That'll dry more or less in front of you, and then you're good to lay. After mixing up ( standard set if its a big area and I'm on my own ) I have a bucket of 50/50 and a sponge and dampen the area I am about to lay. Haven't lost a patient yet, and have never used SBR. A lot of people, mostly plasterers, swear by SBR, ( I think they use it in their tea / coffee instead of milk TBH ) but if there is a product for one job and a product for another, then buy the one that says so on the tin AFAIC . I've used Mapei by the bucket load so no issues there, and many others such as Bal ( expensive ), Ultra ( my first choice as I've used mountains of it with fantastic results ), Kera, Granfix, and other 'knowns', but the only one I would actively steer clear from is Unibond. Had some proper shite results with that and whatever you do, don't EVER buy their ready made floor adhesive in a tub!!!! Utter dog? As always, butter the back of the tile so its completely covered, and lay your notched bed on the floor, ( if the floor is good enough for one notch ), or butter, bed the floor, and then bed the tile too ( if its a poor floor that's needing making good but SLC is overkill ). Contaminants like plaster or plasterboard dust are not your friend, so mop the life out of the floor with loads of good old H2O wherever there is evidence of that. TBH a dry floor is your biggest concern so refer to my first and you should be fine.