Nickfromwales

You do that regardless, to stop contaminants entering ( and later blocking ) the pipes, but yes, get them taped off, not capped off, instantly after installation.

At 300 c’s 18mm will be ample. ? Pointless using PIR as you don’t need the elevated insulation quality, but worse still is it is pretty much acoustically transparent. If it was my house, it would be acoustic batts. Also, the PIR is a pig to work with by comparison, and the dust from cutting it is horrific in closed spaces.

Doesn’t need to be a Landlord certificate, just a gas safety one. They’re pretty much the same form but just mention owner vs agent respectively which may be of relevance if not renting / letting out? If it’s a full new rewiring installation then you can just get clarity from the issuing body. For insurance purposes you need to be 100% sure that these definitions are correct. Or say nothing and cross your fingers.

Even in Arctic conditions, they would be fine as long as the pipes are taped and not capped off with a tightly sealed fitting. They need to allow air in and out for expansion. After that just make sure the pipes are fixed so they can’t become kinked at the slab. It’s VERY easy to kink them if they’re pulled / pushed on ( but conversely it’s very hard to damage them otherwise ). Blow down one and see if you can easily do so, and that will tell you that no water resides in them.

Years or R&D identifies that type of issue and then you design that out with strategic mitigation.

The Gas Sate Register is part of a ‘competent installer scheme’ and therefore IF the installation was registered you could simply ring them and ask. I would speak to the installer first, and explain how you wish to proceed, as they may well not want to head off ‘down that track’. There is no grey here, just black or white. They did complete and register the Benchmark certificate & notify the GSR of your install / or they didn’t. If they’ve left ANY gas burning ( lethal ) appliance on and functioning then they have put themselves in a very compromising situation. Not many GSR fitters would ever allow themselves to become so exposed / liable, so hopefully this is just poor comms and all is in order.

It’s subsequently garnished with 4 ( iirc ) status led’s, so, depending on the accuracy of what they depict, one can assume it’s definitely a good thing. Better than the original offering of grey-box-sat-on-wall-fingers-crossed-it’s-doing-something......... It still cannot live up to its claimed reputation for absorbing any and all ‘potentially otherwise lost’ / excess PV input etc due to the fact that it cannot absorb ANYTHING until it’s crudely scaled controller decides that it is wiling to allow it to do so. As proven here, and seems apparent in the new installation / user literature, it will always have a potentially huge empty void which cannot be filled when there is space to do so. I can’t help thinking that there is a better way for SA to ascertain a level / state of charge, but maybe the commercial incentive isn’t there yet to provoke further investment in this pursuit. Just my opinion, and can be taken with a pinch of salty yogurt.

Fit a combination or CO detector in there if you have a gas burning appliance. Post a pic of the document you have, but please cover any details of 3rd parties.

Salus stuff was the cheap / nasty end of the scale, but recently they seem to have improved their offerings. I would ring their Uk tech support and ask them which of their newer offerings has a non mechanical relay option, and is suitable for your application. You’ll need to tell them the current model that you have, so they know which voltage ( or volt free ) rating it is.

I still prefer a buffer / hydraulic separator to allow the ASHP to ramp up to max without having to worry about what the final heat load is. My 2-cents is you have the right configuration ?

Forgot you’ve got giants hands lol.

Pivot doors are the anti-Christ. Avoid like the plague. Depends on dexterity, but if you choose a slider with a big D shaped handle that should be robust, trouble-free and not leak one drop. Can’t speak for easy clean results as I typically fit these and then bugger off to the next job

Prob living on the fact it’s a lot thicker

Polyethylene is not UV stable.

That buffer only comes on when ‘heating on’ is selected and the heating is running, yes?

Welcome. Build method? TF / ICF / Other?

Does the house stay at an acceptable temperature throughout?

Hi. The stat you have employs a mechanical relay, with moving parts. What you need to search for is a stat that uses either triac's or SSR technology ( solid state relay ) to get rid of the click from the moving parts. My Siemens room stat is silent in operation, but just connects to my combi. What wiring / controls system does your heating have? Heatmiser / other?

This will have adverse warm up times regardless of the approach, but no UFH has a very quick warm up time TBH other than UTH ( under tile heating ) over insulated backer boards. I think I would still employ a structural deck first in any instance and I have done similar, many times on previous projects with 1st floor rooms over pozi-joists. The build up was; Posi joists at 400mm c's UFH spreader plates with 16x2 pipes, 2 pipe runs run void 22mm P5 2400x600 T&G deck board, D4 glued and screwed minimum 5 fixings per 600mm joist > board contact area 6mm plywood, PVA glue combed with a 3mm tile adhesive trowel for 100% bonded coverage, and also screwed at 120mm c's with 25x8mm screws Tile adhesive and porcelain tiles. Only complaint I had from the client was "how do you turn it down?" You're already at the upper-most part of the heated envelope so I doubt that space will need much in terms of additional heat input ( unless it's an old / poorly insulted and draughty building? ) when the heating on other floors are likely to also be running, so my approach would be to fit plywood baffles with the upper-most surface 115mm below the top of the joists. If following B-Reg's ( or not ) you may well have to install acoustic insulation batts to stop foot traffic / other noise from emitting downwards, so use that to kill 2 birds. I'd sit the 100mm batts on top of the plywood baffles which would leave a ~15mm gap at the top ( between the top of the batts and the top of the joists ). The spreader plates would then sit atop the batts and be slightly proud / distended upwards due to the plates being 2mm > 16mm > 2mm so ~20mm overall thus setting the plate upper surface ~5mm above the joist top level. Gluing and screwing the deck boards down will force the plates into the insulation and maintain surface contact between the plates and the deck boards, which is critical for anything resembling good heat transfer from water > plate > deck > room. I always screw and never nail, and after 23 years plus with zero complaints of "squeaky floors" I will be continuing to do so. You will need higher flow temps in the upper levels, vs the ground floor for eg, so you must make sure that for each discipline you have a manifold and blending set to suit ( so you can define the different flow temps to suit each floor ). Some will fit a manifold on the 1st floor and then run pipes down to the ground floor if GF space is at a premium, but that will not work for sharing the same flow temp between the ground and 1st floor from a single larger manifold, so a manifold per floor is the benchmark so you can adjust / fine-tune these flow temps, per floor, to suit.

That person, I’m afraid, is you. Others will spend on your behalf, sometimes on their behalf also, but always with your money. Sometimes they’ll have spent it without asking, and then just give you the bill, which will then be due in 7-14 days. QS the job yourself. Use that QS report / breakdown to get contractors to understand what is expected and what is available budget wise, and explain to EVERYONE that no extras will be paid for until known, agreed, and that the particulars agreed have been adhered to. That will serve both yourself, and the people working for you ( at any level ), extremely well indeed. It will be mutually beneficial and assure contractors that any extras they are asked to do are easily identifiable and quantifiable, ergo they’ll get paid according to what they’ve done. Get the fabric and essentials done to a good standard, fit cheap kitchens and simplify bathrooms, leave them until last, and if all has gone well you can retrospectively add to the budget for those accordingly. Welcome to the forum, and good luck with your first build. ?

1000%. Just plumb it in and worry yea not. If you’re super worried, run it in 50mm so you are guaranteed an air break over the descending fluids.

A good 4” of space gained?

I couldn’t imagine a bigger ballache / logistical nightmare tbh. You can’t ( shouldn’t ) cut into the SIPS face materiel either as they form racking strength, so any f-ups in the PIR core means abandoning that and surface mounting anyway. ( Also you can’t run cables in insulation without de-rating the breakers or upsizing the cables ( a lot ). ?.

Can't really argue with those prices, just DIY is where the savings would be, plus if plaster-boarding anyway, buying thinner ( cheaper ) frame material and retro-fitting with insulated PB would ba another way of killing two birds with one stone. However, just buying one increment up on those SIPs prices to achieve the same result and fitting PB to those ( prob over a service counter batten to allow for electrics etc ) seems a more straightforward direction. Buy insulation once, reduce heating bills forever I'd still be and advocate of A/C though, for both heating ( which should be negligible in this type of structure ) but more importantly not to cook to death in the summer ( a surprising amount of nuisance noise comes into my 'office' from just cracking open the moderate sized window ( which I have to shut to hold a business conversation ) so be mindful you may not always be able to keep the sliders open all of the time )), but I don't yet have the acoustic batts in the roof void which may help there too. I ran Cat 6 out there too, 1x for external WiFi AP which I mounted on the external 'office' wall ( so the garden now benefits from a very robust WiFi signal ), 1x for the desktop, and 1x for the network / internet printer. You could just get a cable from your existing BB router and take it to an external AP ( like a Ruckus heavy traffic unit ) and hook everything up to that. Depends on your dependency, but a hard wired cable from the desktop is way better than wireless.

Why the hatred for extraction? I’d want that to get cooking smells out, plus any excess heat / steam / humidity when doing the Sunday roast. Otherwise that’ll find it’s way into your nice shiny new home....... Id go in the ceiling and either duct out or punch out through the roof. Shortest route is always best.