Nickfromwales

They’ll all use the same arbor.

Yup. It's the one that's compatible.

The rules are there to make sure that installers are registered ergo they get regularly updated / trained and their knowledge of current legislation is refreshed accordingly. That is usually pushed by the Competent Installers Schemes and with good reason. I have considerable electrical knowledge and a background that let me become involved with things as crazy as nighttime helicopter approach landing systems on Royal Fleet Auxiliary Naval vessels, and more (!!), but I'm still not allowed to go to my neighbours house and fit a double socket if it is "new" or "notifiable" works, but, as I said, with good reason.......eg because if I do not know what a sub-standard or dangerous existing installation is / looks like then I cannot do anything to rectify it, or advise the owner of the condition etc, in accordance with current legislation. What we 'think' is OK and what IS OK are two very different things and cannot be left to stray individual interpretation. It should be standardised throughout the UK also, but that's in an ideal world. Just like we've had folk on here try to argue that they can undertake their own gas work (?!?), yes they can BUT ONLY IF THEY LIVE ALONE AND NEVER INVITE ANYONE INTO THE HOUSE EVER AGAIN. You are not allowed to put others at risk, only yourself.

Either way, use push fit not solvent weld !

Can you get a fall with 110mm? If so it's a no-brainer to install 110mm. 50mm will need supporting right along its length to stop dead spots where crud will accumulate ( especially with what you'll be sending down it ) so over 20m I'd not risk it unless you lay the 50mm on pads of 6:1 sand and cement every 300-400mm and then backfill around it and over it with dust / fines with at least 200mm of coverage as the pipe is brittle compared to UG soil pipe. If no fall, drop 25mm MDPE in and pump it away with a saniflo / similar waste water pump.

Higher volume tank = lower storage temperature too, so the ASHP won't have to work as hard = better SCoP. Capital uplift to go to the bigger tank shouldn't be more than a few hundred quid and worth the investment IMO. If you go for PV, you'll have loads more headroom to store visa PV diversion too ( subject to the size of the array and your surplus of course ). With you being an all-electric house I'd try and max out on PV, so get an application into the DNO now to see how far you can push them

If you find an electrician who can do that in 3 days, please ask him to submit a CV as I have a job awaiting him. Really?

Do two runs to the down-pipe, each collecting 2 sides of runoff so the duty is shared. Same cost, same effort. Just have an inch fall from the highest points to the outlet at the down-pipe, so half inch fall on each run x2. Will give equal height where the two capped off ends meet so will still look uniform.

I think the price they've given you is very fair for the scope of works included, and you have them on a recommendation. I would also allow a consideration for the fact you'll have only one company to deal with for all these works, so less down time repeating yourself and looking for other trades to work with the core MCS company. There is a lot of inherent value with this quote, and with them fitting the bathrooms too ( plumbing wise ) I think you'd be hard done by to find a cheaper ( value for money ) option. Why make life so much harder for yourself? As far as MCS and RHI are concerned, I genuinely think you'd need your head read if you strayed away from that. Your house will be to a good standard, but nowhere near passive, and therefore the RHI is a very attractive benefit for you IMHO. Oh, and their quote is £18k not £22k as the rest is VAT. Add the value of a recommended company, and then the turnkey solution they're offering, and this quote seems a good deal to me. Are they 'cheap', maybe not, but do you want cheap or do you want value for money?

But your probably pregnant now too. ?

Yea. That’s because it’s ordained by the health and safety rules and regs. Neigbours probably still on the same vat of water that first went in. Prob 92% chlorine now ?. Doubt very much that the other 8% is water though...... Yuk.

Bingo. Not just the rads, but the valves, particularly if they are prehistoric TRV's.

Yna rydych chi yn y man cywir. Dim ond ceisio darllen y pyst pan fydd eich sobr iawn

Twaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaat.

Daughter said she'd been in the neighbours one with her friend, and said they were all complaining of sore eyes afterwards ( assuming this is where mum and dad just add more chlorine to dilute the fatty human juices and other such 'discharge' from nighttime activities after the aforementioned sprog was asleep....... ) Took said daughter to the local Esso garage promptly after, and spent £11 in the jet-wash with the heat set to the STERILISE setting. ?? Anyone who says they haven't "bumped genitals" in one of these is a liar. Anyone who says they change the water 'routinely' mean ONLY when mum and dad refuse to get into it because they need a claw hammer to break through the surface layer. F.uck that.

Link available to this system?

Male one end and female the other end. Just fit a cap end on the blank bit you wish to use as a support. You can also use brass 1" munson rings to go around the whole thing if that is easier?

Yup.

Tell everyone to be quiet Works incredibly well in my house with my 4 kids. It doesn't work at all

Please don't shoot my dog because of what I said....

When the two sides are decoupled, I would argue that the improvements would be significant. But yes, as above, I would use the MF but again as 2 staggered walls to make up the one stud wall.

We're almost always fitting them in plant rooms, and we pretty much always line the plant rooms in 18 / 25mm plywood as there is just so much stuff to affix. CU's with us are straight onto that plywood, and then proper and full attention given to the fire integrity ( spread of fire from inside the CU to it's surroundings ) to maintain the standard. Yes, it won't hurt to make a nice fire resistant pattress for it, but totally pointless IMO as if that has been exposed to fire and has 'gone up in flames', you have much bigger problems to worry about at that point I assure you One thing we always do is fit a multi-sensor smoke detector in every single plant space, as early warning is what will pay dividends here, not what the 300mm around the CU is made from !! By the time fire / flames have got to that, the fire would be quite involved and the smoke detection system should have alerted the occupants WAY before the worry of how long the plywood will burn for is a question. Fire goes upwards as well as backwards, but upwards a HELL of a lot quicker...

Current endeavours have been to utilise the duct cooler, slab cooling, and when adverse conditions exist, a re-circulating duct system separate from the MVHR ( and in addition to it ) to target specific spaces with high flow cooled air movement. That leaves the rest of the MVHR serviced spaces on the lower fan speed and seems a more sympathetic solution.

Basement

You're over-thinking it perhaps? Why the fixation with nuisance sound transfer? Rigid acoustic batt in 89mm stud is about as good as it'll get if it's, room to room attenuation on the same floor you're looking for. Boarding and blowing with cellulose would add a lot of extra work too, as the boards would need a hole at the lower and upper voids ( above and below the horizontal noggin ) to fully fill each section x however many sections per the wall length = a LOT of holes to patch up. Main issue here is I doubt if it's physically possible to get the nozzle of the blower in to such a tight space, as if you've ever seen one it's like a huge curved darning needle, about 60mm in diameter, and not very sympathetic to getting into small / compact spaces... Cables in cellulose is a no-no unless seriously de-rated, but if you did one service void one side you could always just then drill services through, but then you would struggle with identifying cables within safe zones on walls ( where a cable rose and then exited the void horizontally to the other side ). Can o' worms there perhaps. Surely the acoustic batt will suffice, but then you still have the option of utilising SB plasterboard both sides, plus you could go to 15mm SB instead of 12.5mm standard PB's if it's bedrooms. If you're happy to 'go mad' then you could always make 2 thinner stud walls, say 50x50mm frame with the vertical 'studs' at 300mm c's, and just couple them horizontally here and there for maximum decoupling. Wouldn't be a pleasant task to try and keep all those skinny frames straight, and plumb though. Yup, and maybe you could do the split stud walls with the metal studs just slightly offset from each other, like one stud wall sitting in the space of the other, eg a pair of 50mm MF's making up a 100mm cavity stud wall but the two never meet other than the occasional strapper at 1200mm height taking the twang out of the wall. Would be a bit of a PITA to insulate with acoustic batt so you'd probably have to use a bit of loose wool at the MF intersections. Would the results be worth all of the aggro is the question... All these decisions will have knock-on effects too, like not having standard door linings for eg.