Nickfromwales

Don’t press the quote button Instead, just click on and select the required text snippet from a members post. When you finish selecting you’ll see a small quote box appear, click that and the text will jump to your editor box ?.You can do that a number of times in the same reply so quoting multiple members ‘snippets’ in one post.

Nobody can “hazard a guess” at that ! It’ll need full SE input via calcs and those produced in a recognised format for conveyance to your BCO. You can get general advice here, not a replacement of your SE @Gus Potter makes a great point about the 3 timbers needing to be as one. You can then centralise the trio and make up the same deficit in ply each side. @SillyBilly to quote another members post just click on their text and highlight it. You’ll then see a white box with quote in it, click on that and it will open that in the editor. Also to ‘mention’ another member just type the @ symbol and start typing their user name. A drop down list will appear, and simply select from that. ?

If there’s a 10mm gap, go concrete solid and fit a 10mm blade of steel plate to create a Flitch beam and put your worries to bed. You could park a car on that.

Eh?!? If the cylinder stat is set to shut off at 50oC then the HP will shut down and the circulation pump will not operate ergo water that hot can never get to the HP. Any temp above 50 will just stave off the HP from coming on, and that’s all you need. If I was designing this I would fit a second 2-port zone valve in the return pipe exiting the UVC to arrest convection circulation, eg so the HP does not / cannot become an accidental radiator. Putting a heat loss aka dump circuit into this arrangement is just crazy. Any of that heat energy should be seen as useful and harvested in the UVC. 210L @50oC is mediocre, but 210L at 75-80oc is a lot of useful DHW. Any uplift in temp = more stored heat energy which absolutely should not be dumped away. What is the control methodology for the ST? Is it supposed to have a dump circuit and for that to be on a high limit stat on the upper 1/3 of the UVC ( 3rd party not HP or UVC controls ).

Don’t fit the cu yourself, just get the SWA into the cabinet and leave that to the sparky to do. Most sparks would likely refuse to energise a DIY fitted installation, let alone test and certify it. It will likely cost you money, not save it, for you to do work in preparation. Know your limitations, and where regs and ‘the right thing to do’ lay. FYI, I would walk from that job if I turned up to connect it and you’d fitted the CU. It’s not worth the risk putting your name to such a small job for the inherent liability.

I made sure the DNO had instructions to install their equipment tight to the left hand side. Everything was measured and drawn out so I knew it would all fit, prior to sending cables x,y & z to that location prior to the meter installation. Agree the integrity of those DP Henley blocks need to be preserved during installation, but there’s no denying that in some instances the effort is not just worth it….but completely unavoidable.

If the (horse) shoe doesn't fit.......

Also note the additional shoulder of stacked vertical timbers taking the downward forces at the ends of the lintels . A very important detail. 3 a side in one of the pics. If it were my house, it would be steel without hesitation. That can sit atop the same shoulder of timber uprights, so only very minimal uplift in cost, but belt and 15 braces if flying over large sliders.

Additional mini CU in there for outbuilding and EV car charger point. No issues there whatsoever, fill your boots. That's a double-pole Henley block in that pic, and great for instances where every ounce of space is precious. They've been around for years, and I'm a fan of them as bunches of single pole ones take up lots of footprint / space. Look how neat that is with the double pole one Bingo bango.

They come with a group controller you address to all of the windows. That unit can, for one example, 'crack open' all of the windows if a certain set temperature is exceeded, eg for purging heat. That has buttons on it for group open / group close, as well as each window having its own dedicated controller. Any hint of rain, and they shut automatically. I'm unsure of the compatibility with an App etc as these are not wifi units, but a quick call to Velux tech gurus would clear all this up in an instant. I was very impressed by them tbh, and I thought the cost was extremely good value for money.

I think you're interpreting the drawings too literally. There may well be 4 rising SVP's, but nothing stopping each of those, or just 3 of those from being terminated inside the dwelling with AAV's. You can have a strategic SVP to form the stench pipe ( open to atmosphere ) outside the property rising from the foul network up the outside to ridge height on a gable or just above soffit height on the other elevations. If you are on a terrace of houses or a street where you can demonstrate the neighbouring properties already vent the sewer to atmosphere, you could even petition the BCO to do away with a stench pipe altogether. The term SVP means network 110mm pipe runs in general, so it doesn't automatically become a pipe rising to atmosphere through the fabric of the dwelling

That’s out of date info Modern panel manufacturers are on top of that, plus the in-roof trays allow for quite a bit of convection airflow. They’re open top and bottom / side to side. Very little to argue over there imho and that from being on roofs fitting them 1st hand.

Ask @Russell griffiths iirc he has a range of waterproof curling tongs and shower resistant buttock hair removal devices coming soon. He fitted a plug in his sink, a 13a plug no less.

Lay strips of 15mm / 18mm ply over, or change the depth of the vertical battens to bring them out past the cement board and render? Somethings got to give?

Fix a cement board to it and render over?

Yup. Thank FCUK ???

I looked at that one from Amazon. For £105 it’s nigh-on disposable, so if it lasts beyond one job it’s paid for itself 5 -10 fold in labour saving alone. I wanted to fit wood cutting blades into it for the 2 wood-crete ICF projects I’m doing atm, but I couldn’t find blades to match the bore and outside diameters of the cheap machines. Annoyingly the more expensive ‘recognised’ brands don’t do a stacked blade arrangement, just two parallel blades, so the search continues……..

Adding a multipoint such as the Ariston would cost a good few hundred quid. Stick with the combi, and relocate it as central to the hot water outlets as practicable.

Mine too, but the wife does nothing but pick holes in it ?

The last pic looks like when that naughty Gremlin jumped into the swimming baths.

If you turn the hot tap then you’re telling the boiler you want hot water ?!? Of course it’s going to fire up. It’s an instantaneous hot water heater so it’s doing exactly what it’s supposed to do. If that upsets you, open the cold tap There are negligible inefficiencies in that cycling as that’s what a combi is designed to do for its working life, eg supply hot water on demand, when there is demand, and for however long it’s demanded for. Changing to a cylinder will give you far greater losses as you’ll be heating a 210-250 L cylinder, at least twice a day, and the latent / standing losses of that will be much higher than the whiff of gas used when firing a combi sporadically for small / frequent pockets of hot water. The burner in the combi only lights ( consumes gas ) for the period of time that the tap is open. It runs on ( pump only) after that to rid the primary heat exchanger of the residual nuisance high grade heat that is left behind ( so the boiler doesn’t kettle ) and that only uses a tiny amount of electricity for a minute or so. Only change to a cylinder if you require more DHW, but for your situation you’d need a minimum of 210L of stored water, heated on demand. The boiler would fire sporadically to keep that topped up after an initial heat up cycle, for however long the timer is set to do so.

Approximately x number of pieces of string

If the quality is there on the workmanship then that sound fine to me. Self builders can be a dangerous bunch wrapping themselves up with day rates and “what could I get it done for” / “how much more discount can we push this for” etc and the honest answer at that stage is buyer beware. Paying a reasonable sum for a good job is value for money. Read some of the horror stories about poor installations and the cost of retrospective repairs and consider what you feel is important.