Nickfromwales

Thank you. However, you will actually be FAR better off with the single 500 afaic. With PV you will be able to force feed spare energy into that via immersion(s) so you’re basically paying a few hundred quid more for a big, basic, energy capacitor. Don’t fear a 500L uvc, that’s pretty much what I would put money on would best suit your ‘predicament’. With PV it also provides a runaway lane for excess so 2 birds one stone.

Is it far from Truro general? I know where that is. Nearly chopped my leg off on a ship in Falmouth dry dock, when looking the wrong way whilst holding a 9” grinder with the trigger held on…… How we laughed. ?

After 3 pints I may fall for that one. However, the cost of splitting the system is huge and the losses expanded, so the swords remain crossed my pastie-loving opponent.

Not yet a practical answer to the OP’s question. Your reply is a bit ‘wider afield’ and better off in a dedicated thread. The OP mentions a HP ( a well established energy multiplier ) and PV pus diversion ( so harnessing an energy source that promotes responsibility, at least as much is reasonably expected from a domestic residential setting aka Joe Publique ) so best get them apples and apples in a line me old China mug ?. Saving the planet is one thing, but not getting clubbed to death by a blunt instrument because the water ran cold is ‘slightly’ more pressing. 6 bed 6 bath. And a thread titled “Hot water cylinder size?” Back on track please.

Forgetteth’yea the above mention of PV and diversion? Summertime DHW via PV top up for at least 6 months of the year, and then who’s gives a Foxtrot about the CoP in the winter? The OP states they need a practical solution for lumps of DHW, so a sensible approach is not to dip under 55oC as that would push them to a bigger cylinder. Your turn

Yup. I know. What temp do you suggest instead ?

At the very least, they should say “this side up”

500L is deffo the minimum you’ll need if a heat pump is the heat source. Get one from Trevor@cylinders2go and mention the forum for preferential prices. He can arrange up to 4x 3kW immersions alongside the HP coil. Have it routinely set to 55oC for daily driving, but arrange the immersions ( +1 / +2 / +3 ) for guest boost when you expect higher DHW use. Heating the same 500L cylinder to 75/80oC will massively uplift its useful DHW sustain and tick all the boxes. A tandem UVC arrangement is far less favourable option imho, and bloody expensive by comparison.

3x

I think one is sat low down / out of sight in the bottom of the nut in the OP pic.

Not sure if the white spacer is supposed to be next after the but as a conical slip washer for the rubber. Open the other sides of the T and compare.

Check it’s not a linear scratch on the pipe, as these fittings rely on 100% perfect surface contact to be sound. Basically, if the o-ring sits on a scratch that’s running the length of the pipe, usually caused by apes pulling / dragging the pipes against brick / block etc during 1st fix, then you’ll get a leak that’s not caused by the fitting.

Incorrect assumption. That’s EXACTLY the job they are designed to do. The more cooking you do, the higher the frequency of the filter changes. Your thinking is flawed.

Replace the pneumatic pipe and try again. I had this before and it was a series of micro-fractures in the pipe allowing air to escape when the flush button ( basically a set of bellows ) was pushed. Swap the pipe off one of the working ones to see if the problem migrates to the other WC.

PH MVHR systems are sealed systems delivering balanced fresh air to habitable spaces and extracting and extracting from wet / smelly areas. No connections ever from rooms to atmosphere as they ( MVHR ) rely on heat recovery to attain PH performance levels. If you dump air to atmosphere, instead of going via an MVHR unit, then you lose the heat energy plus you are also going to be pulling in the same volume of air direct from infiltration. That ‘replacement’ air will be freezing cold during winter and your heating bill will reflect it. Partially open strategic trickle vents, which would control infiltration far better in this instance, would be the least aggressive way of managing humidity / CO2 etc and have the least impact on losing heated air. Balanced MVHR is the only way to manage this properly, but if the house has an infiltration of ACH which is above the trickle rate of the unit then you’ll have just wasted a lot of money and effort. Serious amounts of draught-proofing and MVHR will serve you best.

The loops will still be under pressure after shutting off the isolation valves, so expect a bit of water to spray out under force but that’ll only be for a few seconds or so. After shutting off those, probably best to crack the upper manifold connecting nut and manage the escaping water that way. A beach towel / dust sheet folded up and an empty margarine tub etc will be ample to deal with this small amount of water. Once the top one has drip dried, repeat with the lower nut but at that point it won’t be under pressure any more, just dribbles. When you go to refill, try and top the upper manifold with neat inhibitor, prob half a litre or so, maybe the full 1L, but better than filling with water if possible. just unscrew the white vent plug at the very end of the upper manifold and remove it to pour in the inhibitor.

Mine's been wrapped in membrane since the start of last winter. Perfectly fine and I'm only now continuing with the cladding which I'm doing 'in my spare time', so probably be 'part-wrapped' for 3 more winters at this rate Seriously consider some of the closed cell spray-on insulation kits to boost draught-proofing and insulation in both the roof and the walls Quick, easy and effective. Wish I had done mine ? May well attempt a retro fit somehow if I can inject from inside.....

100a is permissible if the tails are 3m or shorter, but if they’re longer then you have to downsize to an 80a fuse at the meter. Check with your BCO about the acceptable mounting height of the new CU as there are all sorts of crazy bastards out there mis-quoting regs I assure you. You may have to ask for a deviation for the CU to go above the “recommended” knee-jerk height so get your ducks in a row before mounting the CU.

Then the pressure should improve “slightly” lol.

The cooker good should never discharge directly into the MVHR as that will cause grease etc to contaminate the ductwork and filters. Dampers in the duct was an early idea of mine, but doing so would make the system far more audible in normal use so I abandoned that idea tbh. Cooking steam / grease / odour should be caught as soon as practicable, by a charcoal filter, and strategically recirculated back into the kitchen area for final removal via the MVHR ( in an ideal world ).

Details on what weird ? is going on with pressures will help. As said, start a new individual thread for each issue, or feel free to resurrect and tag onto an existing, relevant thread. Quarry tiled floor will be Baltic cold, so take up enough subfloor to get at least 150mm of EPS ( high density polystyrene) or 100mm minimum of PIR ( Kingspan / cellotex etc ) and also about 80mm of screed and put the tiles atop the screed. It would be a good opportunity to put some UFH pipes in the screed too for a super-comfortable floor. Is gas not available in the street or just not in your house? Lots more info required when you get these threads going. Don’t be shy.

Yup. Mixer / plumbing to stay as-is. An hours worth of spanner spinning and it’s 100% sorted. ??

For 3 showers, you’ll still need a sizeable UVC and an accumulator, regardless of the 50mm pipe. At best the 50mm pipe will stave off the resistance of the 32mm pipe vs 600m distance, but will do zero to improve things that significantly because you’ll always be governed by the max potential deliverable by the stopcock and the meter. Pipe size is one discussion but it only conveys what you’re given. Set the pipework up to accept an accumulator and see how you go, but 3 showers plus a loo flushing / appliance filling will be a huge ask of any domestic supply, let alone a 600m long one with over a one storey incline. FYI, that incline will probably cost about 0.8-1.0 bar of ‘head’. Can you get a reading from someone’s outside tap at / near the boundary, for reference?

You’ll have to email Norris Mucksquirter @guinessbookofrecords for copies.

Just drain down, swap the two manifold rails over, and reconnect. Should take an hour max with one spanner. Isolate the loops with the red and blue taps, towel down to catch the 2 pints of water, or less, and crack on. Everything else can stay as it is. Simples.