Nickfromwales

The likelihood is, is that the tiles have a known manufacturing defect which produces a slight cup / bow in the length of the tile. Quickest way to check is to put the tiles against a pane of glass and see what the average tolerances are, across a few samples from a few different boxes should give a good indication. The 33% bond is so you don't get a big dip / jump ( we call them "kickers" ) where the centre of the tile, which would have the most pronounced part of the 'bow', meets and crosses the corners of the tiles above and below, thus giving the most pronunciation of the 'defects'. As far as anything else is concerned you will be fine, as long as you're happy with the first m2 or two after laying and examining the results. FYI, if you use tile 'self-leveling' clips to wall tile, you can probably pull some of the defect out. Believe it or not, tiles will bend a little. You'd need a lot of clips though. You'll need to use cementitious tile adhesive with a full bed and butter technique to achieve best results. Ready made acrylic adhesive will stay 'wet' for way too long to hold the tiles accordingly eg to control the defect. In honesty, it would be best to lay these out and see how they look, as the defect may be far less of an issue than I assume, and possibly no issue at all.

The uplift to 150mm makes zero sense to me tbh. I second the opinion of not going from 150 > 110mm even though the flow / solids would be at the dead centre and bottom of the pipe at that point. If I was on site there would be no mention of 150mm pipe whatsoever. 110mm can run for a hell of a distance with as little as 1:80 fall, and still accept branches from 2/3/4 even 5 WC’s before ever even thinking of upsizing. If upsizing gives any kind of confidence boost, then it won’t cause issue, but it needs to go all the way to the external IC unmolested eg no reduction before it’s final discharge to the sewer chamber.

Apologies. They both boast the same ‘qualities’ but both are acrylic, so both will reconstitute with the presence of water / moisture / extreme humidity etc. Neither better than the other afaic but I wouldn’t use these in any areas other than ‘dry’ sections of wall. I’ve been tiling for over 25 years btw, and only ever had one job go tits up, and that was customer supplied ready made ( acrylic ) adhesive which went into the skip ,via the 3rd floor window.

If we’re talking ready mix stuff here (?) then ditch that tripe and get some powder adhesive and mix your own. I do like all the BS names given to the above-mentioned tile adhesive “power shower proof” and such other nonsense, but the facts are simple…….your tile adhesive isn’t ever supposed to see the shower water as the tiles / grout / sealants take on that responsibility!! Just get some Mapei / Bal / Ultra etc, 20kg bag for a couple of tenners, choose the slow setting versions ( commonly referred to as ‘standard’ or ‘extended’ set so you get an hour to play with it ), and that will serve you very well indeed. That will also be a cementitious adhesive which you can immerse in water with zero degradation. All of the DIY ready mixed stuff is garbage, and will reconstitute with any downstream exposure to moisture, so avoid that for any areas which are frequently / constantly exposed to splashing / running water.

Only 1 channel required with a combi. This is a standard controller in that instance; https://www.screwfix.com/p/drayton-lp711-timeswitch/39024?tc=CB1&ds_kid=92700055281954502&ds_rl=1249404&gclid=Cj0KCQjwvr6EBhDOARIsAPpqUPGrFCfJSVFNTkucCLu4d3WrezSzYYT-csZUKleAzMrbf48YGiDxcl8aAtSxEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds This has 'volt free' contacts so can be used with either low or 230v

Frosted glass, with a more discernible blind at the half height marker down, just for privacy during nighttime use. The other window is quite well thought out, which only needs 'blinding' from the windowsill to the horizontal bar.

Even less desirable option ! Kind of thing you get in the motorway services.....

I wouldn't ever put the WC on that wall unless there was no other choice, however, you and your partner can decide if that's actually a problem between yourselves Typical architect lol, drawing a curve and placing a shower tray against it!! Can be done with a D-shape tray, but the wall ( and radius ) would have to be formed AFTER fitting the tray. My suggestion would be to lose those large radius 'infinite'' / curved corners in the master bedroom, and instead keep 90 degree internal corners with 45 degree 'chamfered' or much smaller radius curved external corners. You still get roughly the same increased distance between the pinch points of the two opposing room corners, but zero of the PITA issues to resolve and effectively unusable internal radius space left by this 'initiative'. Mitigate against nuisance noise / sound by using 15mm sound-block plasterboard on both sides of the wall and rigid acoustic rockwool in the wall ( between the bedroom and the en-suite ). So; Shorten the shower tray a little and have the shower and the bath on the same wall. Fit a pocket door, so you can move the basins towards the doorway a little, and fit the WC on the same wall as the basins in the top corner. Towel rad goes where the door would have opened against, with the doorway having near zero right hand margin, eg the opening kept as far right as possible to keep as big a pocket door as possible.

Very harsh if you have anything near good cold mains pressure / flow, and so much so, that you often have to fit flow reducers to throttle down the 'minimum' flow rate, particularly when using the handset vs the rainfall head. For rainfall only, not so problematic, but I just cannot find a reason to ever choose one of these tbh.

I was half way through a ham and coleslaw sandwich. Food first, facts second ???

Yup. Simple job for a decent plumber / sparky

Distribution Network Owner(s). The owners of the cable

Systems get regularly and repeatedly topped up, for sealed and pressurised systems, so there will be a life-long influx of fresh oxygen rich water which is the reason that the inhibitors presence is of importance.

I’d only go to the 37 if you were doing DHW via a thermal store. 30 will be plenty. IIRC both modulate down to much the same minimum output so, as you’re heating via a buffer, there’s only so much heat you’ll be able to get from A>B anyways. The only time you’d ever suffer is when you’re heating from bitterly cold back to comfort temps but that’s not a regular occurrence and not worth any subsequent investment afaic. Vaillant are rock solid, but, same as with most, the weather comp is a total ball ache ( however you cannot fit it anyway because of the number of heating circuits plus you’re heating a buffer so deffo do not purchase WC equipment. I’d look at Emmeti ( thanks to @PeterW for the link ) for controls, so you get a closer handle on hysteresis, as a stat with as much as 0.5oC can cause over / under shoot. 1oC would be a train crash.

Never had a days problem with Vaillant

My negative comment wasn’t about the boiler it was about a boiler manufacturer telling me I can’t protect the rest of my system by banning the use of inhibitor. A first for me, and I’ve been installing heating systems for over 25 years. The Veissman boilers have a good reputation, but this latest nonsense with controls / boiler type selection / aversion to inhibitors etc would put me right off. Plus they’re asking a lot for it too. Give me a good old Baxi or Vaillant every day of the week.

Ask him to put flexible hoses from the unit as @dpmiller rightly pointed out. They will make a big difference. Make sure they’re suitable for the application though, eg full / large bore not the ones for hot and cold water which you won’t get a pencil through

It's a problem when you first introduce oxygen rich 'fresh' water into the system, and the problems escalate from there. No air ever 'gets into' a system, it's nitrogen that gets generated by the corrosion process that usually needs 'venting off' hence the air release valves at all high points vs an air separator per-se. Wasn't aware you could get an AS for a sealed system?

Assuming the heat pump is bolted to a frame, and the frame is bolted to the building? Then; These for each of the 'feet' of the heat pump and go from there. If that reduces but does not solve the problem, then look at similar to separate the frame from the building. and; This stuff for insulating anything that doesn't need any regular disassembly.

Thanks for the heads up, that is very valuable information for the masses For me a relatively complex, not cheap boiler which dictates that the rest of the system can just literally sit there and rot away minus the presence of an inhibitor chemical......? Not a chance!!! After 5 or so years the primary water will be like gravy, and then comes the likelihood that the subsequent high concentration of waterborne debris start to cause other early fatigue.....? Again, not exactly a strong selling point, sorry. Have you asked if there is a consequence of putting an inhibitor into the system? Warranty void etc / other?

@Hux Add another access point to the right if that’s to be a convoluted run, but the above is what I would be doing. Stuff falling from above will be fired off to the outside wall via the 135 going into the Y branch and access next to will provide a point of maintenance if it ever blocks, which I doubt it ever will due to the addition of regular cross / through flow from the other WC ( iirc ) that is off to the right?

Happy days. Much less of a ball ache ?

15mm cold at the kitchen sink should be hard water, rest of house softened if you’re in a hard water area. The rule for taking appliances alters at the kitchen sink to suit circumstance, so you may need both a hard and a soft cold feed at the kitchen sink. Typically; 15 soft at utility sink to feed washing machine. 15mm soft at kitchen sink to feed dishwasher. 15mm hard to kitchen sink cold outlet plus any boiling tap / other device which have their own water ‘conditioner’ but don’t take softened water. Simples!

15 to baths and showers, deffo, and 10mm hot and cold to basins is plenty. Most basin taps have flow restriction by design / regs, so pointless giving much more unless they’re very long, convoluted runs. Sinks ( kitchen and utility ) I’d typically do a much x 10mm hot feeds and 15mm cold feeds and attach the appliances to the 15mm colds that service the sinks. Topology affects this basic go-to plan of course and there is never a one-stop answer / solution. Introducing a HRC for long hot runs affects things further.

Tiles don’t come out of the boxes perfect either, unless you’ve spent a few extra quid on rectified edge porcelain, and then they’re not always completely perfect / flat on all 4 corners. Asking a tiler to do half bond ( staggered joins ) like you’ve done creates a pita of a job tbh so put the micro detailing to one side and tell him you’re happy with the job. Explain fully to him that you expect him to go above and beyond in the house, eg so he has a fair opportunity to stop and survey the other areas, and ask him to make recommendations for any areas which need self levelling, prior to tiling, so he has no come backs if he’s not maintained standards. Tiles are not supposed to end up like a single sheet of glass, they’re tiles. Imperfect, irregular, and lots of them.